janthetoolman
New Member
Can anyone tell me what a D-2-A16 is?
Posts: 27
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Post by janthetoolman on Mar 23, 2019 16:17:43 GMT
I received this Monitor top from my bro-in-law. Still has 2 shelves the wire guard for the light bulb which still works. That is the good news.And it only cost me a trip from Salem Or to Merced, Ca. That is the good news. The bad news is that the motor has no continuity and the coil in the switch has melted. I was thinking about adding some kind of refer unit from another refrigerator. Anyone have any good suggestions? I thought that I had seen a thread about this before but now can't find it. Would I be able to get all the coolant out of the system, then plumb the new system in, and refill with the new refrigerant?
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Post by Travis on Mar 23, 2019 19:49:03 GMT
Check the resistance of the motor leads from below the compressor before assuming it’s dead. The relay can be replaced, the control is a bigger issue. I bet it’s fine with new wire and a new relay.
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janthetoolman
New Member
Can anyone tell me what a D-2-A16 is?
Posts: 27
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Post by janthetoolman on Mar 24, 2019 1:46:37 GMT
No resistance between any of the three compressor leads but also no resistance from leads to housing.
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Post by Travis on Mar 24, 2019 2:24:29 GMT
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 24, 2019 3:37:46 GMT
No resistance between any of the three compressor leads but also no resistance from leads to housing. It looks like you have the unit taken apart far enough to get access directly to the motor terminals. Unfortunately, the blown-apart overload heater as well as the open circuit motor terminals all point to the compressor motor winding being destroyed.
The overload heater will not burn out unless there is a direct short through the control. The motor winding won't go open-circuit unless it is severely burned by sustained, high current. This could happen if the start-relay does not make contact, and allows the motor to energize but not start. This situation looks like the overload breaker mechanism mechanically jammed so that it could not trip, even though the heater was glowing. That allowed current to stay on the motor until the winding was destroyed. Once the winding developed turn-to-turn shorts, the current would rise to the point that the heater would melt open. Apparently, someone has applied power to the motor after the failure, using a substantial current source. This has blown open the connection between the terminals and the winding inside the compressor housing.
EDIT: I just noticed the control picture. The level of damage to the control clearly shows that an unskilled individual has had their way with it. The selector switch knob mechanism is broken, the bellows is damaged, and much of the mechanism is bent / tweaked. This sort of incompetent craftsmanship would be indicative of an individual who would likely tie wires together and burn out the compressor as well.
Your fridge looks so nice, it's a shame about this damage. Really makes me sad.
There are only two options. Full rebuild with rewind of motor - or locate a working top assembly and repaint it to match the cabinet.
Sincerely, David
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janthetoolman
New Member
Can anyone tell me what a D-2-A16 is?
Posts: 27
|
Post by janthetoolman on Mar 24, 2019 13:23:09 GMT
Thanks for your responses. I did the repaint on the cabinet before I started checking to see if it worked. How do you go about getting to the motor so that you can rebuild it? I can't see anything that I think would let me take it apart other than using my hot wrench (torch) and I really don't want to do that. A friend of mine owns a motor repair place. and he said he would wind it if I got it out. All of the electrical controls are as they were when I got the unit other than making a new wiring loom.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 24, 2019 13:37:04 GMT
Thanks for your responses. I did the repaint on the cabinet before I started checking to see if it worked. How do you go about getting to the motor so that you can rebuild it? I can't see anything that I think would let me take it apart other than using my hot wrench (torch) and I really don't want to do that. A friend of mine owns a motor repair place. and he said he would wind it if I got it out. All of the electrical controls are as they were when I got the unit other than making a new wiring loom. Hi Jan. The compressor motor is accessed by cutting a weld which removes the bottom of the compressor dome. In order to do this in a manner which will allow re-assembly of the compressor, the cut has to be done with a thin cutting blade tool. The bottom head of the compressor housing fits inside of the housing, and has locating tabs which will hold it in position during welding. The cut has to be made immediately below the existing weld, and the cut only should go through the outer layer of metal. This will prevent cutting debris from entering the unit, as well as preserve the alignment of the bottom cover to the housing. To reassemble it, will require welding it back.
Here is a post where I cut one open. Your compressor is a piston type, whereas the one I opened is a rotary unit. The opening method will be the same. monitortop.freeforums.net/post/25038/thread
Don't forget the housing is pressurized with sulphur dioxide gas (assuming the system hasn't been damaged). You'll need to safely remove this before doing any work on it.
It's so frustrating when you spend time on something, only to have to backtrack and rework it again. Don't give up on it!
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Post by ckfan on Mar 24, 2019 13:59:27 GMT
Aww, poor old CK! I feel bad for it! Hopefully you can get it or another one going again. There are a lot of helpful people here.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 24, 2019 23:15:01 GMT
Aww, poor old CK! I feel bad for it! Hopefully you can get it or another one going again. There are a lot of helpful people here. I know, right! It just sickens me when one of these is brutalized by a Mechanical Moron or a Hammer & Chisel Mechanic. Really unfortunate.
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Post by elec573 on Mar 25, 2019 17:09:52 GMT
There’s a ck for sale on EBay Los Angels . Don’t know how close that is to you but it’s worth a look .
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Post by joneske on Mar 25, 2019 20:31:31 GMT
There’s a CK-2-C16 for sale for $175 in Vancouver Wa. On Offerup. Looks to be in nice shape.
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Post by elec573 on Mar 28, 2019 2:16:39 GMT
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janthetoolman
New Member
Can anyone tell me what a D-2-A16 is?
Posts: 27
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Post by janthetoolman on Apr 2, 2019 5:11:39 GMT
Update for the past week. Have looked at 3 different CK-2-C16s. One was $500 and the other was $350, both located in Washington. Neither one had a switch in them but the $500 one had the relay and new wiring. The third one I visited is in the local area and I heard about it from a friend. But it was toast, or I should say toasted. It had been through a fire in a shed. Toast. So I am back to square one. I have cut the tuning and took the freezer unit off and am draining the oils out. Didn't really smell much. Haven't cut the housing for the motor yet. because I haven't decided what to do to get the thing running. Still thinking of taking the works out of a small refrigerator and putting them where the motor is and re-plumbing through the original tubes. I really don't want to spend much on this for my shop. I just want it to work like my 1938 Maytag washer (gas engine $125 invested) !944 Sears 66" porcelain sink and drainboard ($47 in paint invested)
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janthetoolman
New Member
Can anyone tell me what a D-2-A16 is?
Posts: 27
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Post by janthetoolman on Apr 2, 2019 5:12:49 GMT
PS: I never did find the one in Vancouver for $175
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Post by turbokinetic on Apr 2, 2019 12:04:46 GMT
PS: I never did find the one in Vancouver for $175
OfferUp is tricky. You have to set the distance to "max" for searching. See if this link works: offerup.com/item/detail/275793787/
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