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Post by turbokinetic on May 3, 2019 10:35:03 GMT
Finally got another new RO81 just to be sure I didn't ruin the last one. Wired it in per drawings above. First soldered relay to their individual posts. Then hooked power in through the switch. And then back to the relay. I have power to the relay, but am unsure how to test for power at the terminal posts. Plugged it in after double checking the wiring. Nothing. Have had it on for about two hours now. By now I have forgotten what the original problem was! Hello Jan, good morning. If reaching the terminal posts is the issue, you can attach alligator-clip jumper wires to the posts, and let them hang out from under the top, for testing.
The meter's black test lead should go to the common terminal post. Then test each of the other two, individually. The motor's RUN post should receive power at all times when the thermostat is calling for cooling. The motor's START post will see voltage for about 1 second, just after the power is turned on. This start pulse will only happen if power has been turned off for 5 minutes to allow the RO81 start device to reset.
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janthetoolman
New Member
Can anyone tell me what a D-2-A16 is?
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Post by janthetoolman on May 5, 2019 23:36:09 GMT
OK. So I wired the new relay in as shown in ckfan's post. Everything I have checked says that it is correct. Still nothing. Does anyone in the Salem Oregon area work on these? Maybe trade for my first ck. Cause I am getting to the place that I have less important things to do.
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Post by birkie on May 6, 2019 3:14:49 GMT
Such a bad stroke of luck is highly unusual. If you don't find anybody local, and have the time to be methodical, we can do our best to talk you through.
Would you be able to measure the resistances of the wires going to the compressor?
start to run run to common common to start
any to ground
That'll help start to clear up this mystery.
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Post by joneske on May 7, 2019 19:22:21 GMT
OK. So I wired the new relay in as shown in ckfan's post. Everything I have checked says that it is correct. Still nothing. Does anyone in the Salem Oregon area work on these? Maybe trade for my first ck. Cause I am getting to the place that I have less important things to do. I am in Beaverton, and while I am not as knowledgeable as others on this forum, I have rewired a couple of these and have a working example for comparison. If it were possible for you to bring the top up here, I would be happy to help trouble shoot. If interested, shoot me a PM.
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janthetoolman
New Member
Can anyone tell me what a D-2-A16 is?
Posts: 27
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Post by janthetoolman on May 8, 2019 3:11:24 GMT
Just came in from testing. My "Harbor Freight" with new battery was making beeps at me like if I had toughed the terminals together. So if these numbers look totally wrong, I will start over. Start to Run 3.6 Run to common 4.5 Common to Start 2.9
From any of the post to ground, I have no connection.
Joneske: I am going to follow this through and see if I can get it going, but if not we will be in touch.
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Post by birkie on May 8, 2019 3:35:02 GMT
So if these numbers look totally wrong, I will start over. Start to Run 3.6 Run to common 4.5 Common to Start 2.9
From any of the post to ground, I have no connection.
On the CK, common to start should be on the order of 20 ohm, and run to start should be on the order of 24. So do check again. At least there is no fault to ground.
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Post by coldspaces on May 8, 2019 4:10:36 GMT
Common to run should read lowest, common to start next highest, run to start should be the highest reading.
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Post by cablehack on May 8, 2019 6:26:44 GMT
If you feel like taking a risk, you can simply connect 120V direct to the common and run terminals, plug it in (the motor should buzz), and immediately touch the start wire to the run. Ideally, you'll get a bit of a spark and the motor will come up to speed. Don't keep the run wire connected for more than a few seconds or the run winding may burn out. Given that nothing appears to be open circuit, I'd be surprised if this doesn't get it going. Only try this method if you're certain to have identified the correct connections. Of course, there's no protection running like this, so don't run it any longer than necessary, other than to confirm it works.
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janthetoolman
New Member
Can anyone tell me what a D-2-A16 is?
Posts: 27
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Post by janthetoolman on May 8, 2019 13:37:24 GMT
So if I am looking at the terminals from the side, Start should be on the left, Power on the right and common in the center. Just want to double check, before I go get another meter.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 8, 2019 13:56:13 GMT
So if I am looking at the terminals from the side, Start should be on the left, Power on the right and common in the center. Just want to double check, before I go get another meter.
Jan, I hope you are able to get this sorted out easily. Here is a picture to help.
This picture is taken from the front of the unit, looking up at the bottom of the compressor. The terminals should be on the left. The center one (with black wire in my picture) is the common terminal.
Due to the type of cable I used in this project, the start winding has the WHITE wire (closest to you in the picture); and the run winding has the GREEN wire at the rear most terminal.
Hope this helps! The resistance readings you have would indicate a short. That would explain the failure of the original relay. Check for solder underneath the fiber washers bridging something to the case of the unit (although you checked and didn't see a ground fault), or something in the wiring.
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janthetoolman
New Member
Can anyone tell me what a D-2-A16 is?
Posts: 27
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Post by janthetoolman on May 8, 2019 17:10:12 GMT
I have them wired correctly. Red from relay to run, black to common from thermostat through relay and white to power
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Post by turbokinetic on May 8, 2019 19:17:30 GMT
I have them wired correctly. Red from relay to run, black to common from thermostat through relay and white to power I'm confused. If it's like mine above, white shouldn't go to power. White should go to the start contact on the start relay.
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janthetoolman
New Member
Can anyone tell me what a D-2-A16 is?
Posts: 27
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Post by janthetoolman on May 9, 2019 14:03:27 GMT
Sorry. Fingers typed incorrectly. White goes to the Supco RO81 relay.
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Post by birkie on May 9, 2019 18:33:46 GMT
So if those number are correct on the bare terminals (with nothing else in the circuit to possibly mess up the readings), I worry about a short. I know it's not much comfort, but they are extremely rare on the CKs. At the very least, they don't seem to degrade into shorts on their own over time, unlike some DRs.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 9, 2019 18:49:46 GMT
So if those number are correct on the bare terminals (with nothing else in the circuit to possibly mess up the readings), I worry about a short. I know it's not much comfort, but they are extremely rare on the CKs. At the very least, they don't seem to degrade into shorts on their own over time, unlike some DRs. Much agreed. I hope the wiring ends up being the issue. The only way I could see a winding short happen "for no reason" is if a previous owner had an incident with the motor. If that allowed the star winding to be energized for an extended period of time, it could char the cotton insulation on the magnet wire. That would result in embrittlement of the wrapping, so that a small amount of mechanical disturbance would cause that to flake off and make a short. But that is very unlikely.
The completely burned out CA which I tore down had only a small discrepancy in resistance compared to a good one. This CK seems to have a complete short.
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