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Post by cablehack on Sept 3, 2018 2:48:07 GMT
After running none stop for about an hour and a half. It finally got down to 0F. I'd say that's what the trouble is. I've just tested my own CA-1B and from an initial -7C (19F) evap temperature, it took 17 minutes to reach -18C (0F). The probe was just held down in the middle of the evaporator under the weight of a freezer block. I should also mention the capillary tube length I used in this fridge isn't quite the correct length (it should be a bit longer), so the pull down to 0F would probably be a couple of minutes faster with the correct length. |
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Post by elec573 on Sept 3, 2018 5:56:45 GMT
Wow it’s looking good keep us posted.
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Post by ajc31980 on Sept 3, 2018 11:00:10 GMT
So tonight I decided to try the example that cablehack gave for the time that it should take for the evap to hit 0F. With the evap at 19F I turned the dial to 9 and let it run. It hit 0.5F in about 13 min. And hit 0F in 22min. So changing the top gasket helped ? Or maybe something in the float was worked loose wile taking the top off and putting it back on ? With that said. The cycle times have not changed much. On time is 2:55 min and off time is 5:15 min with a box temp of 34 F. So that’s still pointing towards a float issue. I did check for NCGs again. Soon as I cracked the valve I could smell MF with in 5 sec. so for me that wipes NCGs off the plate. I’m going to need to do some reading up on soldering pipes and cap tubes. I have very little experience. Most I have ever done was solder a few water lines back together after replacing them. I’ve been reading trough the thread for cap conversion and I think I can handle it. It mite be a bumpy ride though lol. So any additional advice would be greatly appreciated :-). Given my lack of experience I don’t feel comfortable working on the fridge with the MF charge still in it. I have a feeling getting MF is going to actually be the bigger challenge. I’ve also been searching for R123 and R11. But they don’t seem to be all the easy to get either. I remember reading something about doing a partial crimp on the line ? But haven’t read anything yet on how well it works or if works at all. Also I was wondering if any one could tell what this sound is when I move the fridge? When I was moving it back into its spot I thought to take video of the sound. I had to listen this rattle all the way back from Ohio cause PA roads are all so smooth, not ! Lol. youtu.be/v874nYIF3gI |
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Post by birkie on Sept 3, 2018 13:25:03 GMT
Those cycle times suggest a duty cycle of around 36%. Unless the ambient temperature is incredibly hot or the seals/insulation poor, that does seem a bit high. So that could lend credence to a somewhat worn seat.
You could try recovering the methyl formate with a chilled recovery tank
As far as the video, that sounds like a float rattling, are you constantly shaking the machine? The CK has bumpers around the compressor that makes a solid metallic ping/thunk when shaken hard enough. The float does rattle too. I don't have any firsthand experience with the CAs
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Post by ajc31980 on Sept 3, 2018 13:56:54 GMT
Those cycle times suggest a duty cycle of around 36%. Unless the ambient temperature is incredibly hot or the seals/insulation poor, that does seem a bit high. So that could lend credence to a somewhat worn seat. You could try recovering the methyl formate with a chilled recovery tank As far as the video, that sounds like a float rattling, are you constantly shaking the machine? The CK has bumpers around the compressor that makes a solid metallic ping/thunk when shaken hard enough. The float does rattle too. I don't have any firsthand experience with the CAs Hi birkie. Yes I was rocking the machine back and forth for the video. It was sitting on and uneven floor board at the time. Figured it was a good opportunity to record the sound. I know the “ping sound” you mentioned. I’ve heard it when moving the fridge around if it hits snag in the floor . It’s happened twice. I figured that was the compressor moving around but wasn’t sure. I think the insulation and seals are pretty good. From what I could see of the cardboard it looks dry and almost new. The outside of cabinet sides and bottom are room temp when I check them with a IR thermometer. The room temp is usually 72 to 75 F. The seals I used for replacements seem to be making a good tight seal on the door and the top. I did read through the thread for recovering MF. But I’m afraid if I mess it up I’ll end up with nothing. So I’m going to keep trying to find away to get some MF or one of the replacements. Before I attempt any repairs or recovery of the MF. Thanks AJ. |
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Post by ajc31980 on Sept 3, 2018 20:38:26 GMT
Hi all
The weather forecast was calling for it to be a warmer day today. So last night I shut the A/C off in the room that the CA is in. It’s 87F out side and the room is 85F. The higher room temp has not changed the on/off cycle times or effected the box temp. This makes me think that my gaskets and insulation are probably ok.
I just wanted to add that little bit of info :-).
So the search for refrigerant continues...
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Post by Travis on Sept 3, 2018 21:09:15 GMT
You have a good sense of humor and have learned so much. You're going to shame me into digging back into my own CA1B that needs new wire before anything!
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Post by ajc31980 on Sept 3, 2018 21:39:18 GMT
You have a good sense of humor and have learned so much. You're going to shame me into digging back into my own CA1B that needs new wire before anything! Thanks Travis. I do try to keep a good sense of humor on these projects and with life in general. I find it helps me get through the hurdles that life tends to throw at me :-). You should fix up that CA1B you have. In the short time I’ve had this one I find it fascinating and even though it doesn’t work as it should. It’s becoming my favorite! :-) |
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Post by cablehack on Sept 4, 2018 1:12:16 GMT
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Post by ajc31980 on Sept 4, 2018 1:39:39 GMT
Hi thanks for the link cablehack ! I was looking on eBay yesterday and only saw the 50 lb drum. I really didn’t want 50 lb lol. I’ve also been considering taking the online exam for a class 1 cert. figured it’s open book so it’s worth a shot and would make things easier when having to get refrigerants |
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Post by ajc31980 on Sept 5, 2018 10:54:13 GMT
Hi all. I took and passed the test for type 1 epa cert ! I’m thinking I may just go with R123 at this point. It seems it may be easier to get and if I get 15 lb. It will leave me lots of extra Incase I make any mistakes or any other possible CAs they may stumble into my life lol. I have a few questions. 1. Since R123 comes in a drum. I’m guessing I need some kind of tap or valve to put in the top ? Can anyone Recommend one ? And it can be measured and poured into the system like MF ? I think I read that it has a lower boiling point of 82F Vers MF being 89F 2. I’m thinking that if I do choose R123( and probably will ) I may try charging the CA as it is with R123 just to see how it behaves before attempting a cap tube conversion. The reason I would like to try this, is I have no clue how many times this machine has been purged in its life time. The only history I have is that Herb got in from and old furniture store and that it was sitting in the back. Just from observing the charge valve the top screw was loose ( tho the charge valve screw underneath was very tight ) and there was what I would consider a good bit of oil spillage mixed with many years of grime and dirt sludge all down the out side of the float. So I’d say it’s been purged more than once lol. Wether this was done properly or not, who knows ? So I’d like to try giving it a fresh charge from scratch to see how it does first . 3. I kinda have good idea of how to recover MF from reading cable hacks thread but if I’d Choose not to recover it and just let it out ( seeing as its not illegal to do. correct me if I’m wrong please ). Would I just open the valve and let it out ? In a well vented area or out side. I assume the compressor will have to be running or at least part of the time to get everything out. And then pull a vacuum on the system and then recharge ? Thanks for any advice you may be able to give. AJ EDIT: coldspaces . Herb suggested asking your opinion on the above questions. Thanks for any advice you may be able to give. AJ. |
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Post by elec573 on Sept 6, 2018 4:12:43 GMT
Wow I have no experience in this field. ? But I believe cold spaces does !
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Post by ajc31980 on Sept 6, 2018 4:38:14 GMT
Wow I have no experience in this field. ? But I believe cold spaces does ! Hey thanks for suggesting coldspaces I forgot that he’s in HVAC |
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Post by ajc31980 on Sept 19, 2018 9:38:04 GMT
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Post by birkie on Sept 19, 2018 10:46:50 GMT
I got my R123 today. I plan on trying it out in the CA this weekend to see how it does before going the cap tube conversion route. The R123 came in a drum and I’ve never opened up one of these drums before. After reading the labels on the drum. It seems I need a valve for it. And I’m not really sure what kind I should get for it. Here are few pics of it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated One of the stickers says to use a 3/4 x 4" nipple, so that suggests it's just a 3/4" NPT thread on the drum and tightening it is supposed to break the seal. That being said, I don't really know - that's just an educated guess. I believe the fittings on the standard DOT recovery cylinders are 3/4 NPT as well. That being the case, I'd recommend a metal (brass or steel) in order to break through the seal, if that is how it works. I'd also be concerned about the compatibility of the plastics in some with the R123, favoring metal for that reason as well. So what I would do, merely out of personal preference, is get something like a 3/4 male x 1/8" female NPT adapter, then a 1/8" F x M ball valve (much cheaper than 3/4), then a 1/8" NPT to 1/4 SAE flare fitting adapter, with loctite 567 on the threads. Or something like that. The general idea would be to get from 3/4 NPT to a 1/4 SAE flare fitting, with a valve somewhere in between. That is, if the drum threads are truly 3/4" NPT. \ This is cool. I don't think I was aware that you'd ordered a drum. The drum itself looks huge. For 15 lbs, is it just partially filled? |
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