peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
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Post by peppers on Jul 7, 2021 3:01:40 GMT
Well the saga continues unfortunately...So as of late i recently received my CA thermostat back from Turbo who re-soldered the overload doohickey (not really sure what its called) but nonetheless he did an amazing job fixing it as it was tripping the overload too easy and cleaned it all up inside. I just put it back in a day or so ago and prior to removing it i had finally bled it enough to where it was cooling and i had full frost. The watts were low and the condenser temp from top to bottom and the float chamber were in the same range which told me i had gotten all of the NCG's out. Then the overload tripped and it would not turn back on. Can't really recall why it tripped other than it was weak internally. I started it up and now it wont get cold at all, he watts are a little on the high side ranging from 145 - 245 at different test times and temps in my barn up to 80 degrees +. It seems to run fine and the condenser temps are the same top to bottom. I even tried to do a formal bleed but before the first round was done i smelled a whif of methal so i stopped. What could make it not cool? I did notice that it ran a little noisier than i remember but not real rattely. The first time I could feel the evaporator getting cool to cold in spots but not like it did before i removed the thermostat control. I did leave it on its side for about a month or so while Turbo was repairing it but let it sit overnight and with heater on after the top went back on...advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as i am not sure where to go from here.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 7, 2021 13:22:40 GMT
Well the saga continues unfortunately...So as of late i recently received my CA thermostat back from Turbo who re-soldered the overload doohickey (not really sure what its called) but nonetheless he did an amazing job fixing it as it was tripping the overload too easy and cleaned it all up inside. I just put it back in a day or so ago and prior to removing it i had finally bled it enough to where it was cooling and i had full frost. The watts were low and the condenser temp from top to bottom and the float chamber were in the same range which told me i had gotten all of the NCG's out. Then the overload tripped and it would not turn back on. Can't really recall why it tripped other than it was weak internally. I started it up and now it wont get cold at all, he watts are a little on the high side ranging from 145 - 245 at different test times and temps in my barn up to 80 degrees +. It seems to run fine and the condenser temps are the same top to bottom. I even tried to do a formal bleed but before the first round was done i smelled a whif of methal so i stopped. What could make it not cool? I did notice that it ran a little noisier than i remember but not real rattely. The first time I could feel the evaporator getting cool to cold in spots but not like it did before i removed the thermostat control. I did leave it on its side for about a month or so while Turbo was repairing it but let it sit overnight and with heater on after the top went back on...advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as i am not sure where to go from here. Hi Dean; sorry you're having this issue with your unit again! It sounds like the float is not opening for some reason. I would say to let it sit upright again and try tomorrow. Allow it to run for a little while so that the compressor is warm, and then tap gently on the float needle seat area. CA's can be finicky for sure and they hate sitting idle. I would say that probably, there is still a little NCG in the system which is causing some problems. I've had to bleed a few of them aggressively and lose a little refrigerant to get them to work, sometimes. You may have to keep doing the factory bleed process a little longer to get the circulation going. Just to be sure; the heater is still operating? There's no way it fell out of the heater well while the unit was on its side? Sincerely, David
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peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
|
Post by peppers on Jul 7, 2021 18:57:40 GMT
Hi David, yes heater is still working and i think you may be correct on the float, that seems to be the logical problem. I will keep trying and do some more bleeding as well. Don't think it could have fell out since it had a piece of gorillia tape on it and it was on its side not heater side down but possible.. I will report back!
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peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
|
Post by peppers on Aug 15, 2021 22:55:18 GMT
I am still struggling with my CA...as of late after I got the control back from turbo it has operated here and there but not for any length of time. It would turn on but not get cold, I would turn it on and off again and sometimes tapping the float chamber with a rubber mallet to free up the float (assuming it could be stuck as Turbo suggested). I really don't know what I do when it does actually work and get cold so if anyone has any input on that intermittent behavior that would be great. This weekend I wanted give it another shot, yesterday I tried with no luck in the am which is cooler up in my barn but by late afternoon when it was about 90 degrees up there I got it to get cold by turning it on several times along with tapping it. So for a quick recap the last time a few weeks ago I finally got it running for an hour and it was super cold below zero so I asked Turbo and he said to calibrate the temp knob on the thermostat. It ran and did great before I shut it down. Back to yesterday so it ran but the watts were up around 300 - 310 and it didn't sound right and was getting hot close to 100 - 105 degrees on the dome and condenser, after 10 min it tripped the overload... VERY FRUSTRATING!! It was getting cold but didn't seem to be running right. Today I tried again this time on the the first try I heard a click, not sure where it was came from and the door was open, nonetheless it started to get cold immediately and the watts stayed at 121 for the entire time it was running...seemed promising! but NO...it was 90 degrees up in the barn, condenser was at about 95, top of dome about 105, after about 10 min with the watts staying at 122 I started to notice the red flag creeping out it was going to trip the overload again so I shut it down. I am totally at a loss with this thing and maybe would do better as scarp metal!!! I know they like it hot but maybe its too hot up in my barn? The watts seem good at 121 right?? Not sure why it will run sometimes and not get cold, other times it does get cold and it seems like I have the majority of NGC's out at least enough to cool and run properly. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am about to give up on this thing.
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jc
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 65
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Post by jc on Aug 16, 2021 12:56:15 GMT
Peppers, have you left the machine plugged in so that the heater is running and heating the oil? As for the watts and temperatures, those are not horrible at start up while the compressor is under load especially with the ambient temperature at 90 and definitely if the heater hadn't been heating the oil for at least several hours. The entire cabinet would have been at room temp (90 degrees), that would cause the weird noises and increased temps./power consumption until it cooled the box down some. As long as the heater has been plugged in and running at least overnight I would let it run and see what happens. Chances are those watts and compressor temps will drop once it has been running awhile. Now all that doesn't matter if it is tripping the overload breaker or not cooling at all. So if that is the case then more experienced folks can chime in. But from what I understand when you tried it last, it was running and cooling just with higher compressor temps and power usage correct? Like I said, those will be high initially until it cools the inside down some.
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