peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
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Post by peppers on Mar 11, 2021 23:01:53 GMT
thanks for the detailed procedure Turbo! I have read the process and watched the video for the CA's. I will replace the heater then go from there. I do have the bristol tool as well. I may leave the compressor wires alone for now but it may come to replacing them because when I started to remove them from the relay to get to the heater wires and they are pretty crumbly. Few other questions are the relays replaceable? I have read several threads about replacements but they may need to be adapted and I have read how they are supposed to operate when working properly. Also I have been trying to get a hold of Zach who has made a light plug and I have no luck on the forum or with the email provided in the supplier section. Does anyone know how to get a hold of him? I need a replacement plug for my CK which is also not working but scored for $75 bucks so wish me luck! Thanks all....
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Post by Travis on Mar 12, 2021 0:07:36 GMT
I’m sure Zach will respond when he has time. Please be aware that none of us just play with refrigerators.
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peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
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Post by peppers on Mar 21, 2021 23:04:43 GMT
Thanks Travis... Not trying to be impatient but it seemed he was creating a plug for purchase and the information is under the supplier section. The last post goes back to sept of 2019 and nothing since so was just wanting to know if anyone else has heard from him or how the plug development was going.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 22, 2021 2:07:07 GMT
Thanks Travis... Not trying to be impatient but it seemed he was creating a plug for purchase and the information is under the supplier section. The last post goes back to sept of 2019 and nothing since so was just wanting to know if anyone else has heard from him or how the plug development was going. I understand being busy; but I also have reached out to him via forum and other means, and received no reply.
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Post by Travis on Mar 22, 2021 3:05:33 GMT
Call him then. Would we all prefer that parts become unavailable? I’ve been waiting for three contractors to give me estimates on construction. I’ve gotten zip out of them.
A wood refinisher has had some projects for years.
I admit it sucks, but what can any of us do?
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peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
|
Post by peppers on Mar 23, 2021 23:46:00 GMT
thanks for the detailed procedure Turbo! I have read the process and watched the video for the CA's. I will replace the heater then go from there. I do have the bristol tool as well. I may leave the compressor wires alone for now but it may come to replacing them because when I started to remove them from the relay to get to the heater wires and they are pretty crumbly. Few other questions are the relays replaceable? I have read several threads about replacements but they may need to be adapted and I have read how they are supposed to operate when working properly. Also I have been trying to get a hold of Zach who has made a light plug and I have no luck on the forum or with the email provided in the supplier section. Does anyone know how to get a hold of him? I need a replacement plug for my CK which is also not working but scored for $75 bucks so wish me luck! Thanks all.... quick update...today I started to do the pre-purge per turbo's recommendations. The new cartridge heater (15watt) was installed two days ago and has the unit up to about 73 degrees. My heated garage is at 63 degrees so seems to be working fine. I picked up some mineral oil read up on purging the NCG's one more time to make sure I did it correctly. I cracked the valve just enough for the bubbles to come up and out and did that for about 55 minutes when I thought it was done because it sucked a little of the oil in. I decided to turn it on and it ran shortly doing what it did the last time I tried this when first purchased (less than a minute). I forgot to check the meter to see what wattage it was drawing but will do that next time. I decided to try and bleed it again adding more oil and did that for approximately 90 more minutes...had to quit to get some work done! The bubbles were still coming out so my guess is like Turbo's in that it has a severe build up of NCG's, well at least that is my hope. I will try again tomorrow or later this evening. here are a few pics and a short video, it sounds like it is running normal but if anyone notices anything different please advise. I did the opportunity to clean and wax the entire top while i was waiting for the tiny little bubbles to escape. The third pic is a tech's writing in pencil when they serviced the unit back in 1938, thought it was a cool piece of history! Thanks again for all help in getting this far, keeping my fingers crossed! Here are the youtube links for the pre-purge and quick test run... youtu.be/ehVhqYTQ0lwyoutu.be/Pz1j5pbOhsU Attachments:
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 24, 2021 14:43:14 GMT
thanks for the detailed procedure Turbo! I have read the process and watched the video for the CA's. I will replace the heater then go from there. I do have the bristol tool as well. I may leave the compressor wires alone for now but it may come to replacing them because when I started to remove them from the relay to get to the heater wires and they are pretty crumbly. Few other questions are the relays replaceable? I have read several threads about replacements but they may need to be adapted and I have read how they are supposed to operate when working properly. Also I have been trying to get a hold of Zach who has made a light plug and I have no luck on the forum or with the email provided in the supplier section. Does anyone know how to get a hold of him? I need a replacement plug for my CK which is also not working but scored for $75 bucks so wish me luck! Thanks all.... quick update...today I started to do the pre-purge per turbo's recommendations. The new cartridge heater (15watt) was installed two days ago and has the unit up to about 73 degrees. My heated garage is at 63 degrees so seems to be working fine. I picked up some mineral oil read up on purging the NCG's one more time to make sure I did it correctly. I cracked the valve just enough for the bubbles to come up and out and did that for about 55 minutes when I thought it was done because it sucked a little of the oil in. I decided to turn it on and it ran shortly doing what it did the last time I tried this when first purchased (less than a minute). I forgot to check the meter to see what wattage it was drawing but will do that next time. I decided to try and bleed it again adding more oil and did that for approximately 90 more minutes...had to quit to get some work done! The bubbles were still coming out so my guess is like Turbo's in that it has a severe build up of NCG's, well at least that is my hope. I will try again tomorrow or later this evening. here are a few pics and a short video, it sounds like it is running normal but if anyone notices anything different please advise. I did the opportunity to clean and wax the entire top while i was waiting for the tiny little bubbles to escape. The third pic is a tech's writing in pencil when they serviced the unit back in 1938, thought it was a cool piece of history! Thanks again for all help in getting this far, keeping my fingers crossed! Here are the youtube links for the pre-purge and quick test run... youtu.be/ehVhqYTQ0lwyoutu.be/Pz1j5pbOhsU View AttachmentView AttachmentWe really need to know the wattage demand to be more helpful. It could be start relay sticking and / or more NCG. Normally only one pre-bleed is necessary, but if it's building up pressure rapidly it could sti need more.
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peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
|
Post by peppers on Mar 24, 2021 19:19:58 GMT
thanks for the detailed procedure Turbo! I have read the process and watched the video for the CA's. I will replace the heater then go from there. I do have the bristol tool as well. I may leave the compressor wires alone for now but it may come to replacing them because when I started to remove them from the relay to get to the heater wires and they are pretty crumbly. Few other questions are the relays replaceable? I have read several threads about replacements but they may need to be adapted and I have read how they are supposed to operate when working properly. Also I have been trying to get a hold of Zach who has made a light plug and I have no luck on the forum or with the email provided in the supplier section. Does anyone know how to get a hold of him? I need a replacement plug for my CK which is also not working but scored for $75 bucks so wish me luck! Thanks all.... quick update...today I started to do the pre-purge per turbo's recommendations. The new cartridge heater (15watt) was installed two days ago and has the unit up to about 73 degrees. My heated garage is at 63 degrees so seems to be working fine. I picked up some mineral oil read up on purging the NCG's one more time to make sure I did it correctly. I cracked the valve just enough for the bubbles to come up and out and did that for about 55 minutes when I thought it was done because it sucked a little of the oil in. I decided to turn it on and it ran shortly doing what it did the last time I tried this when first purchased (less than a minute). I forgot to check the meter to see what wattage it was drawing but will do that next time. I decided to try and bleed it again adding more oil and did that for approximately 90 more minutes...had to quit to get some work done! The bubbles were still coming out so my guess is like Turbo's in that it has a severe build up of NCG's, well at least that is my hope. I will try again tomorrow or later this evening. here are a few pics and a short video, it sounds like it is running normal but if anyone notices anything different please advise. I did the opportunity to clean and wax the entire top while i was waiting for the tiny little bubbles to escape. The third pic is a tech's writing in pencil when they serviced the unit back in 1938, thought it was a cool piece of history! Thanks again for all help in getting this far, keeping my fingers crossed! Here are the youtube links for the pre-purge and quick test run... youtu.be/ehVhqYTQ0lwyoutu.be/Pz1j5pbOhsU I went back today did a bit more pre-purge for about 10 minutes. This time I moved the power meter into view and took another short video. I ended up shutting it off because I wasn't sure if the wattage was good or bad for it. It started out at 280watts for a brief second then right to 450, it hovered between 425 and 450 for a bit then down to 410 then about a min in it went to 450-485, then 475 and up to 500 at 1 min 44 seconds in and that's when I shut it off. I will say it the yesterday it only ran for 38 seconds before it shut down and now 1:55 seconds so I assume that is a good sign. Should I try to pre-bleed it since more bubbles were still coming out or run it and see if it stays running assuming the watts are ok and then try to purge process? youtu.be/ltGA9gU7EsU
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Post by ckfan on Mar 25, 2021 0:34:52 GMT
Boy that wattage is really high. Usually they will hover around 200 if they are under a heavy load. I would think it would be even higher if the start winding weren’t dropping out of the circuit though. Im not sure about what it would draw with the start winding continuously in circuit.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 25, 2021 0:48:07 GMT
Boy that wattage is really high. Usually they will hover around 200 if they are under a heavy load. I would think it would be even higher if the start winding weren’t dropping out of the circuit though. Im not sure about what it would draw with the start winding continuously in circuit. About 800W with start winding stuck, and unit running. Over 1000W when stalled. That high watt demand is surely caused by severe NCG and / or some degree of mechanical binding due to poor oil circulation. Needs some serious TLC but should be able to be bled and made to work OK again. Ps - I am on a work site and won't be online much for the next several days.
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peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
|
Post by peppers on Mar 30, 2021 1:58:08 GMT
Boy that wattage is really high. Usually they will hover around 200 if they are under a heavy load. I would think it would be even higher if the start winding weren’t dropping out of the circuit though. Im not sure about what it would draw with the start winding continuously in circuit. About 800W with start winding stuck, and unit running. Over 1000W when stalled. That high watt demand is surely caused by severe NCG and / or some degree of mechanical binding due to poor oil circulation. Needs some serious TLC but should be able to be bled and made to work OK again. Ps - I am on a work site and won't be online much for the next several days. Thanks for the feedback guys...i just got back from vacation and will plug it back in, let the heater reach temp and keep purging the gases. Hopefully i can get the watts down and it keep running to do a proper NCG bleed out procedure. Is there anything else i can do to limp it along or that i should be looking for or hearing that will tell me anything?
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 30, 2021 9:33:50 GMT
About 800W with start winding stuck, and unit running. Over 1000W when stalled. That high watt demand is surely caused by severe NCG and / or some degree of mechanical binding due to poor oil circulation. Needs some serious TLC but should be able to be bled and made to work OK again. Ps - I am on a work site and won't be online much for the next several days. Thanks for the feedback guys...i just got back from vacation and will plug it back in, let the heater reach temp and keep purging the gases. Hopefully i can get the watts down and it keep running to do a proper NCG bleed out procedure. Is there anything else i can do to limp it along or that i should be looking for or hearing that will tell me anything? All I can add is, pre-bleed it again before putting the heater on (if it still has positive pressure while cold). I've had a couple like this, and more often than not, they will work eventually. One thing which worked for me is to bleed a little more aggressively when it is starting to sound like it's about to stall; then cut back to the 1 minute / 3 minute cycle.
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Post by cablehack on Mar 31, 2021 0:01:13 GMT
when I thought it was done because it sucked a little of the oil in. I hope you're not relying on the appearance of bubbles to assume it has NCG's still present. All the bubbles indicate is that the high side is above atmospheric pressure. If the oil gets sucked back in it means the high side is below atmospheric pressure - nothing to do with NCG's being present or not. The point is, the high side must be in positive pressure to drive out the NCG's (if there are any). The way to determine when the NCG's have been driven out is that the condenser temperature is even from top to bottom, and that the float chamber is starting to warm. The difference in temperature is quite marked, and you can actually tell how far down the condenser tubing the NCG's are by feeling along the tubing with your finger. In the case of the CA-2 machines, there's tubing which runs around the cabinet top edge before the float valve (to act as additional condenser area), and the change in temperature can be felt here also. It's important not to purge any more than necessary, otherwise methyl formate will be lost. There was someone on this forum a few years ago who kept on purging his machine and lost all the methyl formate. So, it's important to follow the procedure in the GE manual exactly, especially allowing time for the NCG's to collect in the float chamber before releasing them.
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peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
|
Post by peppers on Mar 31, 2021 2:46:37 GMT
Thanks Cablehack, i cant say for sure if the oil was actually "sucked in", as i was pre bleeding on and off with the machine not running i took the key out several times and also as the small bubbles were being released it seemed as though it lost some mineral oil or it bubbled over a bit. I topped it off a few times over the several hours i did the pre bleed. I kept smelling the gases from time to time and I never smelled any methyl formate however I cant say for sure if any was lost. As i mentioned in one of my last posts it did run for more than a minute longer that it had the two times i started it in the past so i have to assume i did release some NCG's otherwise it would have shut off after about 40 seconds. My only concern now is running it at those high watts, Is that ok? should i try to run it and see if i can do a proper bleed of NCG's. I just didn't want to damage the machine. My gut is telling me to pre bleed it a bit more then fire it up but open to all suggestions?
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Post by cablehack on Mar 31, 2021 6:07:09 GMT
i was pre bleeding on and off with the machine not running Thanks for mentioning that. Sounds like there's a lot of NCG if the pressure is positive with it not running. Anyway, seeing as it does run, albeit with a high power draw, it's worth trying to purge with it running. My experience has been that the power should start to drop off fairly quickly once purging is underway. If it doesn't drop below 400W within a few minutes, it might be wise to let the motor cool down for a bit and then start again. At the normal purging rate there shouldn't be any need to worry about losing oil, since most of it collects at the bottom of the float chamber, away from the charge valve.
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