peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
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Post by peppers on Jan 27, 2021 17:30:39 GMT
Hi everyone, i am looking to replace the heater in my CA as i believe it is no longer working. I have read as much as i can find on the heater wattage but wanted to know before i order from Dave at Phoenix Thermal Supply (844-787-4328) if anyone can confirm the correct wattage for the CA-2-A16 machine. I did read that some folks have used 12w and 15watt replacements but they were for a CA-B machine. I wasnt sure if there was a difference...i do plan to take the top off and remove the old one soon but also wanted to get an order in ASAP as well. Thanks Peppers...
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Post by ChrisJ on Jan 27, 2021 17:46:52 GMT
I've had a 12 watt in my CA-2-A16 for years now with no problems. I'll probably continue with the 12s.
Some guys like more heat so they go with a 15. A 15 will use more power but will tend to be less temperamental in a chilly room etc.
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peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
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Post by peppers on Jan 27, 2021 20:33:56 GMT
Thanks Chris!
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Post by elec573 on Jan 30, 2021 6:38:35 GMT
I have the 12 watt heaters also that I bought a year ago now I would buy a 15 watt heater . I think the dr, ca work better with more heat . My consideration is these were built to try and save electricity so smaller heater less electricity. You have to remember they were trying to sell these fridges during the depression.
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Post by ChrisJ on Jan 30, 2021 15:28:23 GMT
I have the 12 watt heaters also that I bought a year ago now I would buy a 15 watt heater . I think the dr, ca work better with more heat . My consideration is these were built to try and save electricity so smaller heater less electricity. You have to remember they were trying to sell these fridges during the depression. What issues have you had with the CA and a 12 watt heater?
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peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
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Post by peppers on Jan 30, 2021 16:19:37 GMT
I have the 12 watt heaters also that I bought a year ago now I would buy a 15 watt heater . I think the dr, ca work better with more heat . My consideration is these were built to try and save electricity so smaller heater less electricity. You have to remember they were trying to sell these fridges during the depression. Great thanks, i order a 12w and a 15watt from PTS... should be taking the top off today
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Post by elec573 on Feb 3, 2021 2:11:04 GMT
I don’t have an issue with a 12 watt heater , but from others using a little higher wattage there drs seem to be less noisy. I have some 12 watt heaters and plan on using them . But if I buy more I’m going with a little higher wattage.
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Post by ChrisJ on Feb 3, 2021 14:30:50 GMT
I don’t have an issue with a 12 watt heater , but from others using a little higher wattage there drs seem to be less noisy. I have some 12 watt heaters and plan on using them . But if I buy more I’m going with a little higher wattage. Personally, I wouldn't make any comparison between a DR and a CA. There's very little in common between the two.
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peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
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Post by peppers on Feb 11, 2021 1:05:13 GMT
I don’t have an issue with a 12 watt heater , but from others using a little higher wattage there drs seem to be less noisy. I have some 12 watt heaters and plan on using them . But if I buy more I’m going with a little higher wattage. Personally, I wouldn't make any comparison between a DR and a CA. There's very little in common between the two. Chris i have an opportunity to buy a DR not sure of the exact year but i like the look of my CA better, its older and more of a bare bones machine, just curious as i am new to all this do you prefer CA vs DR? Peppers....
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Post by ChrisJ on Feb 11, 2021 14:59:05 GMT
Personally, I wouldn't make any comparison between a DR and a CA. There's very little in common between the two. Chris i have an opportunity to buy a DR not sure of the exact year but i like the look of my CA better, its older and more of a bare bones machine, just curious as i am new to all this do you prefer CA vs DR? Peppers.... That's a personal preference. I like CA's and CK's for cosmetics the most. Travis likes DR's the most. For difficulty of owning and problems, I would say the CK's are the best to go for and easiest to own. CA's would be in the middle and DR's the most difficult.
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Post by Travis on Feb 11, 2021 20:27:14 GMT
Chris is 100% correct. DR’s will tend to worry you. That’s why you need a lot of them.
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Post by elec573 on Feb 13, 2021 1:57:50 GMT
Chris is 100% correct. DR’s will tend to worry you. That’s why you need a lot of them. Yes I would agree with Travis , but I think the drs are the most distinctive looking of the monitor tops with the open coils . Theres a good example of this on eBay New York right now. www.ebay.com/itm/363253630076
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peppers
5 Cubic Foot
Hello I am a new member as i just picked up a super clean 1933 GE CA-2-A16 Monitor Top!
Posts: 56
|
Post by peppers on Mar 11, 2021 2:40:54 GMT
Hi everyone, i am looking to replace the heater in my CA as i believe it is no longer working. I have read as much as i can find on the heater wattage but wanted to know before i order from Dave at Phoenix Thermal Supply (844-787-4328) if anyone can confirm the correct wattage for the CA-2-A16 machine. I did read that some folks have used 12w and 15watt replacements but they were for a CA-B machine. I wasnt sure if there was a difference...i do plan to take the top off and remove the old one soon but also wanted to get an order in ASAP as well. Thanks Peppers... Ok so today I finally started to work on the heater replacement. I would love someone's opinion on weather or not all of this is original. The cabinet was repainted but to me after we took the top off the inside cardboard, insulation and wiring all looks original. I will replace the heater and new heater wiring but it sure looks difficult getting the the three compressor wires. as far as I can tell the are connected and don't look cracked. the outer rubber of the wire is soft and flexible but the actual wires that come out to the heater are toast. That being said the wires to the compressor could be ok? If anyone has a good way to access them please advise. I am not sure how to even solder them on in there. So from what i have read i need to make sure the unit is plugged in for 24hrs and make sure the heater is working then i can try and restart in order to purge the NCG's. when i first bought this it would run for a bit then shut down, folks advised that CA's are notorious for the heaters not working and the NCG's which seem to be the biggest problem with them. I think from what i read i need to heat up the condenser with a drop light or something to get it all going in order to purge the gasses. Can you still purge if the machine is not running but heater is working? Let me know what you more experienced guys think of these innards! sorry that they are crooked, i still don't get why it does this...
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Post by ChrisJ on Mar 11, 2021 12:54:19 GMT
That's interesting. My CA form A had individual wires for the compressor.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 11, 2021 14:54:35 GMT
Hi everyone, i am looking to replace the heater in my CA as i believe it is no longer working. I have read as much as i can find on the heater wattage but wanted to know before i order from Dave at Phoenix Thermal Supply (844-787-4328) if anyone can confirm the correct wattage for the CA-2-A16 machine. I did read that some folks have used 12w and 15watt replacements but they were for a CA-B machine. I wasnt sure if there was a difference...i do plan to take the top off and remove the old one soon but also wanted to get an order in ASAP as well. Thanks Peppers... Ok so today I finally started to work on the heater replacement. I would love someone's opinion on weather or not all of this is original. The cabinet was repainted but to me after we took the top off the inside cardboard, insulation and wiring all looks original. I will replace the heater and new heater wiring but it sure looks difficult getting the the three compressor wires. as far as I can tell the are connected and don't look cracked. the outer rubber of the wire is soft and flexible but the actual wires that come out to the heater are toast. That being said the wires to the compressor could be ok? If anyone has a good way to access them please advise. I am not sure how to even solder them on in there. So from what i have read i need to make sure the unit is plugged in for 24hrs and make sure the heater is working then i can try and restart in order to purge the NCG's. when i first bought this it would run for a bit then shut down, folks advised that CA's are notorious for the heaters not working and the NCG's which seem to be the biggest problem with them. I think from what i read i need to heat up the condenser with a drop light or something to get it all going in order to purge the gasses. Can you still purge if the machine is not running but heater is working? Let me know what you more experienced guys think of these innards! sorry that they are crooked, i still don't get why it does this... View AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentWow; that's unusual to see the round rubber cord. As Chris said, the Form A machines often have individual cloth-covered wires as opposed to the cord. But nobody has seen them all. Accessing the compressor wiring is somewhat "scary" but not difficult. You'll need to lay the unit on its side, with a cushion under the condenser to support it. Should be able to remove all but two of the screws holding the evaporator plate to the bottom of the unit. Loosen the remaining two screws, so that the plate can be "hinged" gently away from the body of the unit. Move it away just enough to carefully un-staple and remove the cardboard surround piece from one side. With that removed, you can pull out the insulation stuffing and access the wiring. It takes a little dexterity to work in that space with a soldering iron; but it is very possible. The key is to not stress the lines too much. As for the NCG purge, you can not complete a NCG purge without the unit running. You can, however, begin the process. Some of these have built up such a high level of NCG that they are stalled or otherwise damaged and can't run. You can do a static bleed, to release the "overpressure" of built-up noncondensable gas. The entire machine needs to be cool, below 80°F. Place a piece of clear tube over the service port and fill it with oil. Loosen the port, and observe the oil. If bubbles appear, allow them to escape. If the oil starts to draw into the machine, close the port. If there was pressure when you opened the port, with the machine stopped - then you had a severe NCG issue. Be sure to release all the pressure until there are no more bubbles; with the machine cool and stopped. Then close the port. If the oil drew back into the machine, you still will need to do the factory bleed procedure, but it may not be as severe of a buildup. The factory bleed procedure works because the condenser is hotter than the boiling point of the refrigerant; and also because the gas is circulating in the system. The float chamber will collect additional NCG out of the system due to the running system. The factory bleed procedure includes running for a short time and bleeding for a short time. This allows the NCG to build up in the float chamber between bleedings. Doing it this way will reduce loss of refrigerant. Pre-bleeding with a cool machine will minimize the amount of methyl formate loss which happens during bleeding with the machine hot and in operation. Also we have seen these seize up during the factory bleeding process. This was likely because it had so much pressure to start with, the compressor couldn't stand the overloading for that long. The pre-bleeding will relieve extreme pressure which is immediately damaging to the machine; while the factory procedure (hot and running) will get out a lot more of the NCG by allowing the refrigerant pressure to push it out.
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