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Post by 2030vision on Aug 9, 2014 0:27:50 GMT
If your landlord is on the ball he will thank you for using one of the most energy saving appliances to come around in the last one hundred years...the newer stuff has arc welder like power consumption.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Aug 9, 2014 8:50:05 GMT
Oh indeed! He knows about the 1935 CK in the kitchen, he laughed to see how well it fit into the spot for the fridge in our 1940 kitchen. (see default photo) But, I just thought of something. I'm going to check this tomorrow... I had an adapter outlet socket combo in the original socket. So, I'll get a step stool out and unscrew that and then screw the bulb into the actual socket to see if I'm getting any juice. I may have killed the adapter. We shall see.
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Post by 2030vision on Aug 9, 2014 12:18:51 GMT
Good luck
Sometimes those brown (or white) plastic or bakelite adapters can be of flimsy construction and the contact blades inside loose their pressure.
We Dr owners are blessed few !!!
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Post by coldspaces on Aug 9, 2014 13:44:18 GMT
I don't see why the screw in adapter should be a problem. Sounds like you are only trying to run 1929 technology on 1929 wiring Seriously I hope it is just the wiring and nothing with the DR.
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Post by ChrisJ on Aug 9, 2014 13:47:20 GMT
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Aug 9, 2014 17:12:20 GMT
I just may invest in one of those. I could use it.
I'm sure the fridge is fine, don't think anything serious has happened, the breaker box showed the switches still in the (ON) position, maybe it was just the cheap hardware that gave up the ghost or, the entire socket all together. I'll find out soon enough. All I want to see is if I get power back to the garage, if so I'll switch the machine on just to see if it's good to go, but will not keep it plugged in after that test. At least till I figure out a more grounded method of power to the garage.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Aug 9, 2014 17:13:30 GMT
Good luck Sometimes those brown (or white) plastic or bakelite adapters can be of flimsy construction and the contact blades inside loose their pressure. We Dr owners are blessed few !!! That's exactly what I have screwed in the socket. And it's not a bakelite one, it's plascon or something like that. It's a later production of the earlier type. Looks the same but, not Bakelite. Hope that's the issue.
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Post by 2030vision on Aug 10, 2014 3:34:40 GMT
Believe it or not,it could be loose connections in your line cord or in the control box. In any event it would be well to go over these for the following reason:
The old method of tightening a stranded wire to a screw terminal without the strands bird caging was to tin with solder the entire length of stripped wire with solder. For the first couple (or fifty) years of operation this may have held but what happens is solder "cold creeps" and the tinned lead collapses under the screw. It was in effect tightening a screw down on a piece of chewing gum. I have taken apart hundreds of old wiring devices where this was done and they are ALWAYS loose.Later on they just started tinning the very ends of the leads only and this arrested that problem. The reason I stick my neck out to the group with this statement is because it happened to me on my very own Dr3. I was standing in front of it and it just STOPPED. After recovering from my mental heart attack my investigation uncovered this condition. EVERY situation in the control box where the stranded wire was captured under the head of a screw this situation existed. After putting a screwdriver to all these loose connections normal performance was restored.
GENTLEMEN,CHECK YOUR SCREWS !!!
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Post by coldspaces on Aug 10, 2014 4:07:54 GMT
Believe it or not,it could be loose connections in your line cord or in the control box. In any event it would be well to go over these for the following reason: The old method of tightening a stranded wire to a screw terminal without the strands bird caging was to tin with solder the entire length of stripped wire with solder. For the first couple (or fifty) years of operation this may have held but what happens is solder "cold creeps" and the tinned lead collapses under the screw. It was in effect tightening a screw down on a piece of chewing gum. I have taken apart hundreds of old wiring devices where this was done and they are ALWAYS loose.Later on they just started tinning the very ends of the leads only and this arrested that problem. The reason I stick my neck out to the group with this statement is because it happened to me on my very own Dr3. I was standing in front of it and it just STOPPED. After recovering from my mental heart attack my investigation uncovered this condition. EVERY situation in the control box where the stranded wire was captured under the head of a screw this situation existed. After putting a screwdriver to all these loose connections normal performance was restored. GENTLEMEN,CHECK YOUR SCREWS !!! Wow I did not know this can happen!! I have tinned wire thinking I am doing a good thing. Sure didn't realize they can loosen by themselves. Sounds like I need to start saving solder and just secure the ends. Do the modern lead free solders suffer the same fate?
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Post by cablehack on Aug 10, 2014 7:46:45 GMT
One of the first things I noticed when I joined the world of owning monitor tops was the tinned wires in the relay box. I thought it strange something would be commercially made like that. Needless to say when I rewired them, the wires were not tinned. Wiring regulations in this part of the world do not allow tinning of wires used with screw terminals because of the creep problem.
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Post by 2030vision on Aug 10, 2014 12:50:24 GMT
That is a great question about the lead free solders. I work in electronics manufacturing and our medical and military customers still will not use lead free because of reliability issues. The tin component leaches through an attacks some basis metals. sometimes the lead is replaced with silver which does make it a little less prone to the creep problem. I was always taught never to put a tinned lead under a pressure connector but if you tin only the very first sixteenth of the lead so that the screw tightens against the copper strands you will not have the loosening problem. Believe it or not we still have customers that call for tinning the strands!
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Post by ChrisJ on Aug 10, 2014 13:53:54 GMT
I always tin stranded wire and have to ask, if you torque the screws correctly, this should effectively crush anything soft so why would they loosen later? I can't say what will happen over 50 years but I have some things I did 10-20 years ago and they are still solid.
For electronics and electrical I swear by 63/37 rosin core.
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Post by 2030vision on Aug 10, 2014 16:30:38 GMT
Chris
I think it is a matter of how the strands are stacked in the bundle as you wrap them around the screw,its just the luck of the draw. I agree with you about the solder also, the lead free stuff is junk and for the most part requires higher temperatures to work with.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Aug 10, 2014 17:14:11 GMT
Well gents, very interesting turn this discussion has taken! Always information flowing! Good points made 2030vision! I know that the vibrations these things make when shutting off could loosen screws over time.
As for the lack of power in my garage, come to find out every unit has no power. I've talked to three neighbors who share our property and all the garages are down. So, we suspect a mouse or rat has chewed a wire some place and caused the garages to be powerless.
The land lord is coming on Thursday to take a look at the matter can be.
Just FYI, my garage is a single unit in a connected row of garages that face the alley.
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Post by 2030vision on Aug 10, 2014 21:08:34 GMT
I LIKE THIS PLACE !!!!
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