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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jun 3, 2014 20:20:13 GMT
Hey gang, it's been some time since I've posted in here but, I was visiting a favorite antique mall this weekend, happened to see a rare specimen. A 1929 GE with it's original DR top! All and all, it's in fair shape. Looks like it could have it's original paint or, an earlier restoration job. Says it works, the original latch on it seems to be stuck in the up position, the door dose close but, not tight because the latch is stuck. Has the porcelain evaporator, two original racks, one is the two tear one for under the evaporator. Has the original instruction card and the original warranty certificate dated October 1929. Not to mention the original cloth power cord and plugs, in pretty nice original condition.
It's tagged at $595.00 marked down from $795.00 I asked them if the dealer would go down, they said possible. So, I offered $300 seeing that this machine is missing a rack, and a hinge screw or two. Could also use a new door gasket.
Anyway, I'm waiting to hear from the dealer to see if they'd take my offer.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jun 9, 2014 5:44:17 GMT
I'm tempted to go out there again tomorrow and test run it to see how well it cools. I haven't been able to forget about this machine, the '29s are pretty neat I think and it's not too far from here.
What would you guys say would be a fair price to offer on a "working" 1929 DR-2? There are signs of rust around the base, could be water in the walls? If I go out there, I'll bring my camera and snap a shot or two to share.
Thanks.
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Post by Travis on Jun 9, 2014 7:24:01 GMT
Check the heater for continuity. I don't think it's very nice to test a DR without allowing the heater to warm up, but that's my opinion.
Value tends to depend on your location, the cabinet type, etc. Tall control DR's are uncommon is good condition. You almost never find a good top on a good cabinet at the same time.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jun 9, 2014 16:58:10 GMT
Since I'm not as familiar with the characteristics of a DR, how does one allow the heater to warm up? Does one plug it in, wait and then click the start switch? I agree, I don't see DR units complete like this often, that's why I've been very tempted to purchase it.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jun 9, 2014 21:12:08 GMT
Here are some photos I snapped of the '29 DR I spoke of. I plugged it in, I thought I turned it off before plugging it in but, soon as it turned on, I turned it off... Walked away, came back in a few minutes and started it up. It got cold over 10 minutes, condensation started to form om the evaporator. Ice didn't happen, I started it around 11am, and I turned it off around 11:30 or so. The compressor was still operating, not switching off. I felt the top and it was warm, not hot... But, wasn't sure if it was going to automatically shut off like it should. What's the normal start up cycle for a DR? I know my CK runs for 15+ minutes on start up after defrosting. Anyway, it's not too bad and I think I'm going to really try and get this. What do you guys think? </span> Attachments:
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Post by ChrisJ on Jun 9, 2014 21:23:34 GMT
I've never used one or even seen one in person but I'd bet that brine filled evaporator takes much longer to frost than a CK or even a CA.
A lot of mass there it needs to get cold and the refrigerant is essentially insulated from the exposed surface of the evaporator. It needs to get the brine down below freezing, and then the brine needs to get the outside surface down below freezing.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jun 9, 2014 21:23:53 GMT
Here's the start and temp control box. I couldn't ad this to the last post.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jun 9, 2014 21:48:16 GMT
I've never used one or even seen one in person but I'd bet that brine filled evaporator takes much longer to frost than a CK or even a CA. A lot of mass there it needs to get cold and the refrigerant is essentially insulated from the exposed surface of the evaporator. It needs to get the brine down below freezing, and then the brine needs to get the outside surface down below freezing. Yeah, I took the brine into consideration. I'm sure the DR types do take a little longer to frost up. It sounded healthy, it was running quite nice. Love to hear from any of the DR guys about how long these things run on initial start up from a room temperature box.
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1929 DR
Jun 9, 2014 23:57:26 GMT
via mobile
Post by jhigdon2 on Jun 9, 2014 23:57:26 GMT
The brine filled evap equipped DR2 will can take over an hour to reach target temperature. It's a good idea to check and make sure the condenser coils and float chamber are getting warm, during this initial cool down. A good rule of thumb with DR machines is "a warm condenser means cool evap and motor windings"
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jun 10, 2014 1:48:08 GMT
Ok, so what I gather from what I'm reading is that it'll take an hour for a DR to reach target temp? Is that when the machine switches off automatically?
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Post by ChrisJ on Jun 10, 2014 2:00:58 GMT
Ok, so what I gather from what I'm reading is that it'll take an hour for a DR to reach target temp? Is that when the machine switches off automatically? Yep
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jun 10, 2014 4:48:19 GMT
Ok, that makes sense.I wasn't sure about it's initial cool down time. I'm familiar with the CA and CK types more so but, I've always liked the idea of having a first generation GE but, never found one around here that was actually working and affordable. And I really like the fact it comes with some pretty rare items such as the warranty card, and the narrow cast aluminum slab that's curved on one side to rest in the evaporator. Thanks guys for the help, I think I'm going to take the plunge as long as the seller accepts my offer or, within the ball park.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jun 13, 2014 17:31:32 GMT
Well gentlemen, I finally heard back from the antique store. The seller counter offered with $450. And he'll do a layaway! So, Monday I'm going down there and putting it on lay-away! This will give me time to make room in the garage and recruit some muscle to truck it up to Monrovia. So looking forward to this purchase.
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Post by ChrisJ on Jun 13, 2014 18:36:44 GMT
Just remember, that DR unlike the CK could bite you in your sleep. You need to make sure the evaporator connections are perfect, or make them perfect with grinding and epoxy like Allan did.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jun 14, 2014 6:10:52 GMT
I should message Allan and get some pointers. I haven't done any kind of work on a Monitor Top, I really don't have any tools ore expertise to do so. I did check the lines, and from what I can see, they look pretty good. I don't think this machine has too many miles on it.
Thanks for the advice, always much appreciated. And yes, DR's are a a little picky in comparison to the CKs.
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