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Post by cablehack on Jul 9, 2014 9:33:39 GMT
1000 ohms is correct, so it won't be a heater problem. I do believe however that the initial cool down takes a lot longer because of the brine filled evaporator, so it won't be like a stainless steel evaporator and start frosting in a few minutes. If it never frosts, my initial guess is valve troubles, but I'll leave it to the DR experts advise further.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 10, 2014 2:30:36 GMT
I thought I read 1000, could have been 100 ohms. If that's the case, that would indicate a bad heater or?...
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 10, 2014 19:01:42 GMT
Update.
My friend's ohm meter is full of "it" lol
I just pulled the heater out and plugged it in... It doesn't seem to be heating up... I held it for a minute and no change in temp.
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Post by cablehack on Jul 10, 2014 23:25:16 GMT
It would be almost impossible to get 100 ohms, as wirewound resistors (which is what this heater is) cannot reduce in value. It would be dissipating over 100W and burn out rather quickly if somehow it could be 100 ohms. Another way to test the heater is with a plug in power meter. You should get a reading of around 12-15W all the time the compressor is not running. It seems that you've confirmed it's faulty without the meter anyway - if no heat and there's 120V being fed in, it's definitely bad.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 11, 2014 0:30:25 GMT
Yep cablehack, it's dead. I doubt my friends ohm meter was operating right... it was kind of an old one. But, I digress. So, I need a heater. I'll start there and see how it goes.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 18, 2014 8:27:32 GMT
UPDATE: I received a 12w heater from Allan on Wednesday, I replaced it this afternoon and I didn't have wire nuts to finish the job till I had the chance to pick some up. So, I did and now it's back together and plugged in with the switch in (OFF) mode. So, tomorrow I'll check on it and see if I hear some gurgling in the pig. Keep your fingers crossed guys!
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Post by allan on Jul 19, 2014 3:45:14 GMT
And pay close attention to the float temp. Should be nice and warm. Same temp as center of condenser. Hope all is well with it
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 19, 2014 17:42:30 GMT
I'll check that. I had it plugged in since Thursday night, but yesterday like fool I turned off the light when leaving the garage and the power was shut off for an hour. :/ So, it's warming back up again. I felt the collar that's around the badge, it was warm but the top of the compressor wasn't so warm. Mind you, this was yesterday evening around 6pm before I turned off the light in there. I'm sure after a full 24 hours it will feel nice and warm.
=R
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Post by ChrisJ on Jul 19, 2014 19:14:33 GMT
I doubt you can feel any heat from the heater it self. If the heater has been plugged in for 5-10 hours that should be plenty.
Fire it up!
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 20, 2014 20:40:42 GMT
Ok, I fired it up today, ran it for more than 45 minutes... I have ice, the box is nice and cold but... It didn't shut off. I'm going to take a look at the contacts in the control box. Maybe someone fooled with the temp control wheel. The top was getting mighty warm. Not quite too hot to keep my hand on but, warm enough to shut it off before I left for a couple of hours.
When opening the control box, what should I look for if the thermostat isn't functioning?
Thanks!
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 20, 2014 21:04:20 GMT
By the way, it is running much quieter than it did when I first fired it up.
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 20, 2014 21:06:38 GMT
It takes more than an hour to get that pig evap cold enough to shut off when first turned on. You need to wait longer. Now that mine has been running for days it has on times around 45 minutes and the off time is also around 45 minutes.
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Post by allan on Jul 21, 2014 0:32:29 GMT
Ok, I fired it up today, ran it for more than 45 minutes... I have ice, the box is nice and cold but... It didn't shut off. I'm going to take a look at the contacts in the control box. Maybe someone fooled with the temp control wheel. The top was getting mighty warm. Not quite too hot to keep my hand on but, warm enough to shut it off before I left for a couple of hours. When opening the control box, what should I look for if the thermostat isn't functioning? Thanks! Caution. I was just in this situation and strongly suggest to pay attention to your float tank temperature. Float tank running cool possibly means insufficient winding cooling. Longer than normal run times with not enough SO2 drafting over the windings can be bad. Maybe you can get a digital remote thermometer to see where cabinet temp is. There is a secondary fine tune knob on the thermostat adjuster that you can get to with the cover off
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 21, 2014 0:43:40 GMT
Hey guys, I put my hand on the float tank and it's warm, not as warm as the very top of the compressor but, it's warm. It was nice inside the box, I didn't have a thermometer inside the cabinet at that time but, I have a good analog thermometer that I just put inside it now.
I'll keep you all posted.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 21, 2014 2:32:26 GMT
Ok, the DR has been running for an hour and twenty five minutes. The analog thermometer I hung on a rack reads 50oF. It's still running, probably trying to get it down to about 30oF or in that neighborhood. There is frost on the evaporator. The cast iron slab is frozen to the evaporator.
The top of the compressor is getting pretty warm, borderline hot. The float tank is warm, not cool but, not as warm as the compressor dome. Suggestions?
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