|
Post by cablehack on Jul 21, 2014 2:47:12 GMT
It would take quite a while to get to 30F cabinet temp. Certainly, with the CA's I'd allow many hours for that. The golden rule in the GE manuals is not to let it run "hotter than the hand can stand". If you are concerned about excessive compressor run time, turn the thermostat to the warmest position so that it will start cycling and let the cabinet temperature stabilise. Then reduce temperature further if required. The design centre is 40-48F cabinet temp so I'd expect it to run somewhat longer for 30F.
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Jul 21, 2014 2:52:46 GMT
Keep watching it, I think jhigdon has said it can take up to two hours to pull down a warm pig. The float should be about the same temp as the middle of the condenser coil is what has been recommended before. When it starts to cycle it box temp may still be a bit high. Should drop over time. Is most of the pig getting frosty? If it is all frosting you should have enough so2 in the system.
|
|
|
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 21, 2014 3:08:34 GMT
Hey guys, I just checked on it, it's been running two hours now. Still running and I have a box temp of about 45-45 give or take. The top of the compressor dome is pretty warm but, I can keep my hand on it.
With the 20s thumb wheel temperature setting, it's hard to tell what the hell it's at currently. It has an horizontal arrow pointing to the left for warmer and an arrow pointing to the right for higher. I guess left is down and right is up? Anyway, I'm going out there and see about setting it to a warmer setting so maybe it'll shut off... It's been two hours now. Should shut off soon.
|
|
|
Post by cablehack on Jul 21, 2014 3:17:37 GMT
Sounds good so far. Seeing as you've got to 45F, you should be able to rotate the thumbwheel in the direction that just causes it to shut off....assuming the thermostat is working.
|
|
|
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 21, 2014 3:22:09 GMT
Ok, I adjusted the thumb wheel... Nothing seems to happen. I rotated it up and all the way down. Still running.
It's been running now for two hours, 12 minutes.
|
|
|
Post by allan on Jul 21, 2014 3:45:19 GMT
Ok, I adjusted the thumb wheel... Nothing seems to happen. I rotated it up and all the way down. Still running. It's been running now for two hours, 12 minutes. That control is a bit confusing. The left and right arrows relate to the solid vertical band on the rotating temp adjustment knob. While turning the knob you will notice the solid band moves right or left. I believe a band moved as far right as it will go is the warmest setting. It may be an out of calibration control but can also be caused by an evaporator not getting cold enough due to insufficient SO2 flow
|
|
|
Post by Travis on Jul 21, 2014 3:55:34 GMT
Read your manual that your friend Chris told me you have.
|
|
|
1929 DR
Jul 21, 2014 5:33:21 GMT
via mobile
Post by jhigdon2 on Jul 21, 2014 5:33:21 GMT
Sounds a bit excessive on the run time. For a single pig DR. It's usually a safe bet to suspect a restricted float seat on the DR models. Beware that restricted flow is hard on the motor windings. Motor on the DR models relies solely on refrigerant flow and windings are not cooled by oil splash.
|
|
|
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 21, 2014 6:17:21 GMT
Ok, so after it ran for 2 1/2 hours, the frost accumulated on the evaporator was very even, inside and out. The box temp was about 45oF. But, it was still going strong. Running very smooth and quietly. The compressor dome was very warm, borderline hot.
John, how would I un-restrict a float seat? Pretty simple procedure?
|
|
|
1929 DR
Jul 21, 2014 16:10:12 GMT
via mobile
Post by jhigdon2 on Jul 21, 2014 16:10:12 GMT
First one is not simple. It gets easier with practice. Have to discharge refrigerant and cut liquid feed line and manually clean the float seat. Although coldspaces has a procedure he has come up with, which I kinda like.
|
|
|
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 21, 2014 16:30:41 GMT
Have to discharge refrigerant? Well, sounds like a job beyond my capabilities at this time. I'm not sure if So2 can be purchased here in California and I'm not too cozy with the idea of replacing it.
|
|
|
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 21, 2014 18:55:58 GMT
Update:
This morning around 10am I went out to see the DR. I figured out the thumb wheel temp control, and the line in the middle does go side to side as Allan mentioned. So, I moved it all the way to the right, to the "higher" side. Well, I switched it on, it ran for more than hour. About an hour and thirty minutes. Box was about 48oF and there was ice forming on the evap. The float tank was as warm as the coils (as mentioned in the manual) the top was getting warmer to the touch so, I simply switched it off.
There we go. Not going to fuss with it till I read more of the shop manual and see if there's any adjustments I can do my self.
Thanks again gents for all the input.
|
|
|
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 21, 2014 22:30:12 GMT
|
|
|
1929 DR
Jul 21, 2014 23:08:58 GMT
via mobile
Post by jhigdon2 on Jul 21, 2014 23:08:58 GMT
Unplug machine and switch on the control, so that contacts are closed. Then apply pressure against the bellows with the lever. Does bail go over center and snap the contact points open? Is the temp capillary firmly attached to the evap? Is the spring inside the control thumb wheel there, and intact?
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Jul 21, 2014 23:14:13 GMT
Mine doesn't have the rubber tubes slipped on the start relay arms to make it quite. Looks pretty good for its age. Can you post a side view of the start resistor so I can see how it mounts. That may tell us the resistance unless you already know it. Looks to be either the 3.4 or 6 ohm.
|
|