|
|
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 22, 2014 2:37:43 GMT
Sure coldspaces, I can take a side photo for you!
John, the spring inside the thumb wheel is there. The wheel does seem to turn freely but, coils back to a position because, it's been years since it has been oiled I'm sure. I'll go out there tonight and unplug it and experiment with what you suggest. I believe the temp capillary is firmly attached to the evap but, I'll double check.
|
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Jul 22, 2014 2:42:43 GMT
Ok I was wrong mine did have some rubber pieces but they are not all still there. It did seem to be loud compared to my 32's relay. I see why now, I have metal hinting metal. Thanks for posting the pics.
|
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Jul 22, 2014 2:44:39 GMT
Sounds like the spring is not turning freely against the wheel if I understand what you mean by coils back. |
|
|
|
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 22, 2014 2:51:58 GMT
It's hard to explain. Maybe I'll take a video of it. But, till then I can turn it, but is kinda stiff... Wants to turn back to a previous spot if I'm turning it up or down. So, it's not too freely but, I'll video it later tonight and post it here.
|
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Jul 22, 2014 2:57:53 GMT
It's hard to explain. Maybe I'll take a video of it. But, till then I can turn it, but is kinda stiff... Wants to turn back to a previous spot if I'm turning it up or down. So, it's not too freely but, I'll video it later tonight and post it here. The spring should not be able to twist with the wheel. Sounds like that's what it is doing. On mine the spring does not twist. |
|
|
|
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 22, 2014 3:19:18 GMT
I'm waiting for the video to upload to YouTube but, here's that side photo you asked for.   |
|
|
|
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 22, 2014 3:26:00 GMT
Why this is sideways is beyond me but, you get the just.
|
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Jul 22, 2014 4:00:50 GMT
Something is definitely wrong where the spring meets the wheel,it is catching as you turn it.
That resistor should be the 6 ohm. I remembered that I had read before that on page 7 of the DR manual they state " In all of the 60 cycle controls for DR1 & 2 size machines there is a resistor of approximately 6 ohms in service with the lead to the start winding"
Sounds like most of us will have the 6 ohm resistor unless we own one of the bigger machines.
|
|
|
|
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 22, 2014 4:05:48 GMT
Ok, glad I posted the video... So, how does one stop the spring from turning with the wheel? Is this a lack of oil over the years and simply needs some oil? Or is something deeper?
And yes, that's what I read in the manual as well, 6 ohms is right.
|
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Jul 22, 2014 4:14:08 GMT
New territory of me. The (formally)stalled DR of mine is the only unit I have with this control. There has to be some kind of thrust washer between the wheel and the spring. I haven't ever had one apart. Sounds like this thrust washer just needs lube as you suggested unless it is made if something other than steel that could degrade over time and might even be missing. Hopefully someone else has had these apart and will chime in.
|
|
|
|
Post by Travis on Jul 22, 2014 4:37:01 GMT
I've never had that part of the control apart.
Gill, the tall controls are louder than the short ones. That's part of what makes them so much better! I have used heat shrink tubing to replace the rubber that once padded the metal parts.
|
|
|
|
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 22, 2014 6:43:58 GMT
Say, this reminds me of a member of flickr, jasonnabby... He was/is rebuilding these control boxes to DR's with factory like perfection! I just looked at the ol' flickr group and there are photos of him rebuilding this type CR-1050-C1 control box. I sent him a message on flickr... Is he a member here? I'm not sure. Here's a link to his flickr page. The man is doing some amazing things... I hope he replies. www.flickr.com/photos/53186000@N02/with/12694702043/ |
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Jul 22, 2014 12:57:15 GMT
That is some amazing work. Everything is so polished it all looks new.
The blue resistor he has in the newer control looks like a new modern replacement he has found. It doesn't appear to match any in the DR manual unless maybe its one of the obsolete copper oxide ones in the first row.
|
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Jul 23, 2014 0:20:22 GMT
Say, this reminds me of a member of flickr, jasonnabby... He was/is rebuilding these control boxes to DR's with factory like perfection! I just looked at the ol' flickr group and there are photos of him rebuilding this type CR-1050-C1 control box. I sent him a message on flickr... Is he a member here? I'm not sure. Here's a link to his flickr page. The man is doing some amazing things... I hope he replies. www.flickr.com/photos/53186000@N02/with/12694702043/Looks like he is a registered member here. monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/187/dr-resto-work |
|
|
|
Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 23, 2014 1:59:56 GMT
Hey guys, I sent Jason a message on Flickr last night and got a reply. He says it's an easy fix so, maybe I'll chat with him soon about it and such. He says he could fix it in a few minutes. He seems to know his control boxes. Maybe I'll check the manual and see how to disconnect the control box from the charged line so I can send the box to him and get it fixed up right. He actually said that the wheel should have some tension on it... Said it seems like it's turning about right. Anyway, more on this later. |
|
