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Post by coldspaces on Jul 23, 2014 2:02:39 GMT
Be careful the bellows should be clamped too keep it from expanding while it is out of the control. Not doing so could cause permanent damage.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 23, 2014 3:02:23 GMT
The line going into the bellows? Is it a softer line that can be re-opened if it's clamped shut? Sorry for the ignorance, I'm just wanting to do it right.
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 23, 2014 3:19:12 GMT
The line going into the bellows? Is it a softer line that can be re-opened if it's clamped shut? Sorry for the ignorance, I'm just wanting to do it right. If you unhook it from the back of the pig it can be gently straightened so it will lift out with the control. Do not kink it and you won't have to try to re-open it. If kinked too severely it could be hard to re-open. My early Dr with the pig evap did not have to be bent near as much as the one on my 32 with a stainless steel evap.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 25, 2014 19:20:46 GMT
Oh, that's interesting... Good deal. I'm going to hopefully speak with Jason on Sunday about the control box. If anything, he'll walk me through making the right adjustments to get her working right now... And maybe down the road, I'll disconnect the charged line and send him the box for a full refurbishment in the future. At this point, I simply want it to cycle on and off normally.
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Post by ChrisJ on Jul 25, 2014 20:05:11 GMT
I may have missed it, but have you confirmed that the machine pulls the evaporator down to the correct temperature?
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 29, 2014 17:10:39 GMT
Yes Chrisj, the machine ran for just over an hour last I ran it... It got to about 45oF with good frost on the evap. I let it run for another 45 minutes and it got lower. But, no shut off. The top of the compressor was feeling very warm, warmer than suggested in the manual. So, I turned it off.
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Post by cablehack on Jul 29, 2014 23:16:01 GMT
This is all reminiscent of when I first had my CA-2 working. It never shut off although the temperature got down low enough. I had to recalibrate the control. What I hadn't realised at the time was taking the bellows off the control stretched them and put the whole thing out of calibration. I was very lucky that the thin brass material that the bellows are made of didn't tear. So, golden rule is, never remove the bellows from a control unless you can keep the bellows clamped their compressed position, whether this be done by some sort of clamp, or keeping the cap tube end frozen.
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Post by ChrisJ on Jul 30, 2014 2:24:31 GMT
Yes Chrisj, the machine ran for just over an hour last I ran it... It got to about 45oF with good frost on the evap. I let it run for another 45 minutes and it got lower. But, no shut off. The top of the compressor was feeling very warm, warmer than suggested in the manual. So, I turned it off. What got down to 45 degrees, the cabinet or the evaporator it self? I don't know how it compares to a CA or a CK but I'd assume that evaporator should drop into the teens at least.
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Post by 2030vision on Jul 30, 2014 10:08:13 GMT
All of this conversation about control boxes sure makes me sorry that I missed a two door with the type "A" control that was on Ebay about three years ago.It was in the Bronx and that large GE emblem with no thumbwheel really looks antique !!
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 30, 2014 16:43:30 GMT
Yes Chrisj, the machine ran for just over an hour last I ran it... It got to about 45oF with good frost on the evap. I let it run for another 45 minutes and it got lower. But, no shut off. The top of the compressor was feeling very warm, warmer than suggested in the manual. So, I turned it off. What got down to 45 degrees, the cabinet or the evaporator it self? I don't know how it compares to a CA or a CK but I'd assume that evaporator should drop into the teens at least. The box temp was about 45oF. I didn't put the thermometer in the evap, should have done that but, it was getting nice and icy, the cast iron slab was frozen right to it too.
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Post by 35ckmonitort on Jul 30, 2014 17:08:31 GMT
All of this conversation about control boxes sure makes me sorry that I missed a two door with the type "A" control that was on Ebay about three years ago.It was in the Bronx and that large GE emblem with no thumbwheel really looks antique !! Wow, a two door with the A type control box? Golly, that's rare! They must have wanted a mint for it! By the way, welcome to the forum!
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Post by cablehack on Jul 30, 2014 23:23:44 GMT
The box temp was about 45oF. I didn't put the thermometer in the evap, should have done that but, it was getting nice and icy, the cast iron slab was frozen right to it too. The evaporator would be well below freezing point for it to frost. 45F is a normal cabinet temp for a DR (remember, for a real ice box 50-55F was considered normal), so once your control is sorted out there shouldn't be any problem getting it to cycle. That's not to say there might be some blockage preventing optimum performance, but you'll know that once you've been able to run it for a few days, seeing what the power consumption is and what the cycling times are.
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Post by ChrisJ on Jul 30, 2014 23:53:06 GMT
The box temp was about 45oF. I didn't put the thermometer in the evap, should have done that but, it was getting nice and icy, the cast iron slab was frozen right to it too. The evaporator would be well below freezing point for it to frost. 45F is a normal cabinet temp for a DR (remember, for a real ice box 50-55F was considered normal), so once your control is sorted out there shouldn't be any problem getting it to cycle. That's not to say there might be some blockage preventing optimum performance, but you'll know that once you've been able to run it for a few days, seeing what the power consumption is and what the cycling times are. My CA was frosting at 19-20F but was far too high for it to ever cycle.
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Post by cablehack on Jul 31, 2014 2:35:10 GMT
My CA was frosting at 19-20F but was far too high for it to ever cycle. That sounds like the control is not calibrated correctly. In position #1, it should be able to cycle with evaporator temps warmer than that, up to 27F for CA-2A or 31F for CA-2B. I found that the evaporator temperatures given in the CA manual were quite accurate with regards to matching the specified cabinet temperatures. All of this of course depends on the system being given sufficient time to stabilise and the door not being opened, etc. Your 19-20F is around the middle of intended operating range so it should be cycling. I'd guess the knob should be about 5-6, depending on room temp, for that. In my situation having damaged the calibration, I had to move the knob about 6 divisions to restore it.
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Post by 2030vision on Jul 31, 2014 10:10:12 GMT
All of this conversation about control boxes sure makes me sorry that I missed a two door with the type "A" control that was on Ebay about three years ago.It was in the Bronx and that large GE emblem with no thumbwheel really looks antique !! Wow, a two door with the A type control box? Golly, that's rare! They must have wanted a mint for it! By the way, welcome to the forum! Thank you very much. Yes I agree these are rare,it was the only one I had ever seen and probably was the first generation that did not have an oil conditioner. If I had to guess it was probably a 1927 model.I bid two hundred dollars and the next highest bidder won it for about two hundred ten. I have a poor copy of a March 1926 (yes 1926!) catalog that had the first version of the motor on top if I can clean it up for scanning I'll post it. Thank you everyone for welcoming me
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