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Post by ajc31980 on Aug 17, 2018 23:49:20 GMT
That looks very nice, and I'm sure it will work for years! You've got dual safety on there now. This will help prevent such heartbreak as Shane had with his Crosley Shelvador; where it's one relay failed and burned the motor. I’m glad you suggested keeping the original overload in the circuit. For that reason. And honestly wouldn’t have thought of it myself. But was feeling uneasy about putting a China made ( that could possibly... be cheaply made) relay in my vintage fridge. But people on here seem to have had good success with them. So I’m feeling positive about this :-). I Read through Shane’s thread. It’s sad that, that happened to his Crosley. I hope he can find another suitable compressor. I’m saying this in a positive way and with a bit of humor :-) I hope that this last time I have to post on this thread for help with this old girl , at least for a very long time lol. ( cause I never did figure out where it leaked it’s refrigerant) I’m hoping my next post is just an update on how it’s doing say... a few months down the road .. Thank you everyone for all the help and great advice ! It’s been one heck of a journey and I’m definitely feeling better prepared for the next one ! :-).
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Post by turbokinetic on Aug 18, 2018 2:17:57 GMT
That looks very nice, and I'm sure it will work for years! You've got dual safety on there now. This will help prevent such heartbreak as Shane had with his Crosley Shelvador; where it's one relay failed and burned the motor. I’m glad you suggested keeping the original overload in the circuit. For that reason. And honestly wouldn’t have thought of it myself. But was feeling uneasy about putting a China made ( that could possibly... be cheaply made) relay in my vintage fridge. But people on here seem to have had good success with them. So I’m feeling positive about this :-). I Read through Shane’s thread. It’s sad that, that happened to his Crosley. I hope he can find another suitable compressor. I’m saying this in a positive way and with a bit of humor :-) I hope that this last time I have to post on this thread for help with this old girl , at least for a very long time lol. ( cause I never did figure out where it leaked it’s refrigerant) I’m hoping my next post is just an update on how it’s doing say... a few months down the road .. Thank you everyone for all the help and great advice ! It’s been one heck of a journey and I’m definitely feeling better prepared for the next one ! :-).
Yeah, I hate to be a scare-monger. I realize the Supco overloads are pretty solid, but I have personally had a failure that cost me a compressor (not vintage) and you know how hard it is to get past something like that. It's so easy to keep the original in the circuit and let it have dual protection.
I bet you're going to be set for quite a while now, and have time to spend tinkering with your Monitor Top, as well!
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Post by ajc31980 on Nov 17, 2018 11:35:27 GMT
I had mentioned in my last post that I would post an update a few months down the road on how this fridge was doing. Well..:. It was doing good until about month ago. I noticed the frost line was looking a little lower than usual after defrosting it, but figured that is was because the air is much dryer now that the heat has been on in the house. But the frost line has dropped even more over the last couple of days. So unfortunately I don’t have the mysteriously 20 year leak, it’s more like a five or six month leak. I never was able to track down exactly where it was leaking. But I’m guessing it’s some place around the small tubes in the evaporator. When I defrosted it last month I noticed it felt slightly oily when I was wiping things down. I’m not sure if I’m going to just bump the charge again or shut it down until I get around buying the proper torch and supply’s I need to do the repairs. This old girls become my main fridge and really don’t want to have to go back to using a newer one. Even if it is just temporary haha.
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Post by ckfan on Nov 17, 2018 14:07:18 GMT
That’s too bad. I know you will fix it though because you really like it. I’ve convinced one of my friends to never go back to a new fridge either. I know that you used a leak detector on it before so I’m really not sure on this one. I’ll let the experts chime in.
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Post by ajc31980 on Nov 17, 2018 17:09:39 GMT
That’s too bad. I know you will fix it though because you really like it. I’ve convinced one of my friends to never go back to a new fridge either. I know that you used a leak detector on it before so I’m really not sure on this one. I’ll let the experts chime in. When I used the leak detector on it, it was hit or miss. I would get a faint reading and the next I wouldn’t. This was around the evaporator. I really do like this old fridge. The chances of me ever parting with it are slim to none. I’m fairly sure it’s probably leaking around the evaporator. The trick is going to be pin pointing where. I’ve tried the soap and water trick and couldn’t find it. So it must be a very... slow leak.
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Post by turbokinetic on Nov 18, 2018 2:27:31 GMT
Awe man that is so frustrating!
Just a question; I remember it was doing a low frost line thing after moving it or defrosting it. Could it be doing that again, where it needs to be turned off, defrosted again, and then turned back on?
I have noticed that cold ambient temps definitely lower frost lines on all my fridges, as well.
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Post by ajc31980 on Nov 18, 2018 3:47:13 GMT
Awe man that is so frustrating! Just a question; I remember it was doing a low frost line thing after moving it or defrosting it. Could it be doing that again, where it needs to be turned off, defrosted again, and then turned back on? I have noticed that cold ambient temps definitely lower frost lines on all my fridges, as well. It is and isn’t frustrating because I knew it would be just matter of time until it would loose its charge again.i was just hoping that it would be a lot longer. I have it sitting turned off and defrosting as I’m writing this. When I turn it back on. I plan on sitting a pot of hot water inside to help create a better frost line since the humidity in the house right now is only 30%. I’m hoping that’s it’s just being temperamental like it was that time I moved it. The thing that worries me is, back when I moved . It just didn’t frost up. I got little bit on the top shelf and then it just stopped. Where this time it’s been slowly falling. It doesn’t show in the pictures but where its not frosted is actually a little sweaty. I’ll post back later and let you know what happens after the defrost. I’m also thinking maybe it has do with how it was defrosted last time. Usually I turn it off and put pan of hot water in the freezer to do a rapid defrost. This last time I turned it off and just let it sit over night because it was almost empty and I was beat after work and planned on grocery shopping the following day. (I had moved the few items left to the CA). When I got up the following day I wiped the freezer down with a damp clothe, turned the dial to normal and shut the door and headed out for groceries. When I got back from the store I noticed the frost line wasn’t as high as normal. But figured it was because of The lower humidity. And didn’t really give it anymore thought until it really started to drop.
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Post by ajc31980 on Nov 18, 2018 7:10:26 GMT
Ok. So it’s been running for few hours and the frost lines is at a normal level again. I swear this fridge is going to give more grey hair than I already have lol. It looks little high in that picture but it usualy settles just above the half way point. So perhaps I over reacted ?
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Post by turbokinetic on Nov 18, 2018 14:46:16 GMT
Ok. So it’s been running for few hours and the frost lines is at a normal level again. I swear this fridge is going to give more grey hair than I already have lol. It looks little high in that picture but it usualy settles just above the half way point. So perhaps I over reacted ?
That is good to see it's working well again. There have been several others (different makes) which do this sort of thing. It seems that the general consensus is they have a little bit of moisture in the system, causing a blockage in the capillary tube. If this does what it does "every now and then" after defrost, I would just stay watchful, if it were mine. If it does it more and more, I would probably consider soldering in a dryer. But that's just me.
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Post by jake on Nov 18, 2018 14:50:53 GMT
I was reading my 1949 Hotpoint Servicegram Manual and came across something that may be of interest here. The manual talks, at length, about capillary tube freeze up. The symptoms include partial or no cooling after a defrost, irratic frost line, hard starting, and tripping of the overload. The manual also mentions that the symptoms can sometimes disappear for months at a time. To test for capillary tube freeze up apply heat, while the fridge is running, to the lower end of the capillary tube where it goes into the liquid tube to the evaporator. The heat from your thumb and forefinger or a lighted match will usually thaw out the obstruction and the frost line on the evaporator will return to normal. The manual advises that this is not a permanent fix. Four grams of SO2 should be added to the system through the end cap purging screw on the compressor for a permanent fix. I'm sure, 70 years later, there's a better fix. Perhaps pulling the system down into a deep vacuum to remove the moisture that's causing the trouble. Then recharging. I'm also curious about the placement of the cold control feeler tube. The '49 manual shows it clamped to the underside of the freezer shelf, at the back center of the shelf. Not next to the Telefrost indicator. I'm wondering if that could have an effect on the cycle times and temperature control of the cabinet?? Granted my book is a '49 and your fridge is a '47 so possibly the feeler tube placement is correct, I really don't know. Just wanted to put it out there since I noticed the difference. Hope this helps!!
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Post by turbokinetic on Nov 18, 2018 15:21:43 GMT
I was reading my 1949 Hotpoint Servicegram Manual and came across something that may be of interest here. The manual talks, at length, about capillary tube freeze up. The symptoms include partial or no cooling after a defrost, irratic frost line, hard starting, and tripping of the overload. The manual also mentions that the symptoms can sometimes disappear for months at a time. To test for capillary tube freeze up apply heat, while the fridge is running, to the lower end of the capillary tube where it goes into the liquid tube to the evaporator. The heat from your thumb and forefinger or a lighted match will usually thaw out the obstruction and the frost line on the evaporator will return to normal. The manual advises that this is not a permanent fix. Four grams of SO2 should be added to the system through the end cap purging screw on the compressor for a permanent fix. I'm sure, 70 years later, there's a better fix. Perhaps pulling the system down into a deep vacuum to remove the moisture that's causing the trouble. Then recharging. I'm also curious about the placement of the cold control feeler tube. The '49 manual shows it clamped to the underside of the freezer shelf, at the back center of the shelf. Not next to the Telefrost indicator. I'm wondering if that could have an effect on the cycle times and temperature control of the cabinet?? Granted my book is a '49 and your fridge is a '47 so possibly the feeler tube placement is correct, I really don't know. Just wanted to put it out there since I noticed the difference. Hope this helps!!
That is great information, and seems to hit the nail on the head as to his symptom.
I find it humorous that they recommend adding SO2 as a method to remove the moisture. That's sort of a harsh fix it seems! Trading a little erratic operation for a system which now has a corrosive stew of SO2 and water inside it!
I believe another member (coldspaces?) has a Frigidaire doing the same thing. He tried pulling it down and letting it evacuate for an extended time. I don't think it was successful. In my opinion, based on his experience, as well as well as the fact that you would need to remove the charge either way - if it were mine, I would install a drier in the line at the same time.
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Post by jake on Nov 18, 2018 19:06:56 GMT
Hi David, I thought the SO2 remedy was strange too since it's corrosive! I was actually trying to see a picture of the cold control feeler tube location when I stumbled across the capillary tube freeze up information. Apparently this was an issue back then as the manual talks about units being returned to the factory for reconditioning when a fix was possible in the field. There's also a paragraph of "grumbling" about servicemen not filling out the return information correctly on the warranty paperwork! Lol
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Post by ajc31980 on Nov 18, 2018 19:23:37 GMT
I was reading my 1949 Hotpoint Servicegram Manual and came across something that may be of interest here. The manual talks, at length, about capillary tube freeze up. The symptoms include partial or no cooling after a defrost, irratic frost line, hard starting, and tripping of the overload. The manual also mentions that the symptoms can sometimes disappear for months at a time. To test for capillary tube freeze up apply heat, while the fridge is running, to the lower end of the capillary tube where it goes into the liquid tube to the evaporator. The heat from your thumb and forefinger or a lighted match will usually thaw out the obstruction and the frost line on the evaporator will return to normal. The manual advises that this is not a permanent fix. Four grams of SO2 should be added to the system through the end cap purging screw on the compressor for a permanent fix. I'm sure, 70 years later, there's a better fix. Perhaps pulling the system down into a deep vacuum to remove the moisture that's causing the trouble. Then recharging. I'm also curious about the placement of the cold control feeler tube. The '49 manual shows it clamped to the underside of the freezer shelf, at the back center of the shelf. Not next to the Telefrost indicator. I'm wondering if that could have an effect on the cycle times and temperature control of the cabinet?? Granted my book is a '49 and your fridge is a '47 so possibly the feeler tube placement is correct, I really don't know. Just wanted to put it out there since I noticed the difference. Hope this helps!! Hi jake Thank you for that very useful information. My issue definitely sounds like what is described in the manual. It makes sense also cause I use my heat gun to speed up this last defrost. The next time it acts up I’ll apply some heat as stated to capillary tube. As for the feeder tube to thermostat. I’m fairly sure it’s in the right spot. When I replaced the thermostat a while back I was sure place the tube in the same spot as the original. I’ve seen pictures of this same model on eBay and they have the tube in same place. Cycle times have most always been good with this fridge, with the exception of when the frost line is really low. It’s usually 2min and 12 to 14 off. Thanks again for posting all of the information 🙂 AJ
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Post by ajc31980 on Nov 18, 2018 19:27:29 GMT
I was reading my 1949 Hotpoint Servicegram Manual and came across something that may be of interest here. The manual talks, at length, about capillary tube freeze up. The symptoms include partial or no cooling after a defrost, irratic frost line, hard starting, and tripping of the overload. The manual also mentions that the symptoms can sometimes disappear for months at a time. To test for capillary tube freeze up apply heat, while the fridge is running, to the lower end of the capillary tube where it goes into the liquid tube to the evaporator. The heat from your thumb and forefinger or a lighted match will usually thaw out the obstruction and the frost line on the evaporator will return to normal. The manual advises that this is not a permanent fix. Four grams of SO2 should be added to the system through the end cap purging screw on the compressor for a permanent fix. I'm sure, 70 years later, there's a better fix. Perhaps pulling the system down into a deep vacuum to remove the moisture that's causing the trouble. Then recharging. I'm also curious about the placement of the cold control feeler tube. The '49 manual shows it clamped to the underside of the freezer shelf, at the back center of the shelf. Not next to the Telefrost indicator. I'm wondering if that could have an effect on the cycle times and temperature control of the cabinet?? Granted my book is a '49 and your fridge is a '47 so possibly the feeler tube placement is correct, I really don't know. Just wanted to put it out there since I noticed the difference. Hope this helps!!
That is great information, and seems to hit the nail on the head as to his symptom.
I find it humorous that they recommend adding SO2 as a method to remove the moisture. That's sort of a harsh fix it seems! Trading a little erratic operation for a system which now has a corrosive stew of SO2 and water inside it!
I believe another member (coldspaces?) has a Frigidaire doing the same thing. He tried pulling it down and letting it evacuate for an extended time. I don't think it was successful. In my opinion, based on his experience, as well as well as the fact that you would need to remove the charge either way - if it were mine, I would install a drier in the line at the same time.
I agree about the so2. From reading about how It reacts with moisture, that’s last thing I would wanna do. Haha. I agree with adding a filter dryer to the system. It’s just one more reason for to invest in a torch and some decent soldiering supply’s.
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Post by jake on Nov 18, 2018 19:32:08 GMT
Hi AJ,you're welcome, glad to help! That's a very very nice fridge you have there!! Glad you're keeping it going and using it!! I think David's suggestion about installing a dryer is the way to go for a permanent fix.
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