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Post by allan on Sept 16, 2015 0:38:12 GMT
 It is is a bit more trouble but this allows a sure fire cleanup! Next time I will drill a smaller hole on this side and then add a 3/8 inch hole directly across from it. And remember there is a fine strainer in the top inlet tube of the float tank. The last one I opened up was really plugged up. |
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Post by coldspaces on Sept 16, 2015 1:08:21 GMT
I don't have any plans at this point to tear it down enough to drill a hole in the side.
If I remember right you braze a plate over the hole when done?
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Post by coldspaces on Sept 16, 2015 1:22:46 GMT
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Post by coldspaces on Sept 18, 2015 3:45:58 GMT
There must be something on this planet that will dissolve the black crud that builds up in our refrigerating machines without causing corrosion in the float. So far in some very short time limit testing of every thing you see here (small zoom spout bottle has Dextron III fluid in it) believe it or not I think the Sea Foam might be doing the most good. As you can see I have been soaking bits of a paper towel and laying them on this stator from the stalled DR2. None of the things I tried are making it just wash off but I would love to find something that would. I know Alan has tried some things and I have tried professional coil flush with little luck. My goal is to be able to flush these out without taking the unit any farther apart than I have now. Unit is fully intact other than the lines to and from the float being cut to isolate it.  |
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Post by Travis on Sept 18, 2015 5:05:38 GMT
Have you tried plain old carburetor cleaner?
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Post by ChrisJ on Sept 18, 2015 10:52:09 GMT
Glad our CA's don't suffer from this.  |
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Post by ChrisJ on Sept 18, 2015 10:52:53 GMT
On a serious note, what about methyl formate?
That seems to be a really good cleaner although kind of expensive.
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Post by Travis on Sept 18, 2015 14:53:31 GMT
Finally, a good use for a dead CA!
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Post by ChrisJ on Sept 18, 2015 16:46:29 GMT
Finally, a good use for a dead CA!  |
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Post by vintageguy on Sept 19, 2015 5:04:04 GMT
Finally, a good use for a dead CA! Wow! Chris. You're a whole lot better looking than I ever imagined. |
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Post by ChrisJ on Sept 19, 2015 15:26:01 GMT
I tried to find a picture with the right expression and she did it best.  |
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Post by vintageguy on Sept 19, 2015 21:01:53 GMT
I tried to find a picture with the right expression and she did it best. Agreed. |
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Post by coldspaces on Sept 22, 2015 23:17:09 GMT
Sure wish I had a way to put ultrasound inside of the float. Don't think it will work from outside the shell.
Float has been filled with POE oil for almost 48 hours. I know it sure can clean out a mineral oil system and cause filters to plug up. Will have to flush it with coil flush to get the POE all out.
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Post by timeswelding on Sept 22, 2015 23:18:33 GMT
It's probably not pregnant anyway, so you'll be fine.
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Post by coldspaces on Sept 26, 2015 0:49:05 GMT
Here are some more things that I tried on the old stator to see if they might cut the black crud.  I had forgotten about having the CF20 coil flush. I decided a long time ago it's not a very user friendly flush in respect to it won't all boil off easily enough in a vacuum. Pretty sure two systems I flushed it with still had too much inside the coils after blowing them out with nitrogen as recommended. Their compressors failed way to soon and I think it was caused by the flush. It did however seem to be cutting the crud on the sator, not instantly but the paper towel was turning black from wiping it on the stator. No problem with using it on something small like this float. I can easily flush out any remaining CF20 with something like the can of Pro flush also in the pic. So knowing the CF20 looked promising I drained the POE oil from the float and it was clean as new. I then flushed out the remaining POE with CF20. Next I filled the injection tool with CF20 and tried to push it backwards through the float with nitrogen pressure. Had unit tipped so float would be open. All I managed to do at first was plug it up even worse. After repeated tries to get it open from pressure and then vacuum pulling on the blockage it would not budge. I then filled the float most of the way with CF20 and tried to push it through from the float side with a vacuum applied to the outlet, still no luck. Then I made probably the biggest mistake of my Monitor Top repair career. I raised the pressure on the float chamber to as high as 200 psi (big mistake) and was using a hammer to apply vibration to the float. After some time I was finally rewarded by a sudden rush of CF20 and nitrogen coming through the float. It finally let loose and opened up. I couldn't believe it. I was almost to the point of removing the float and cutting it open to clean it out. I was ecstatic that it was finally going to work. Well that feeling didn't last long  When the blockage opened up the float guide pin was not in the float. I had it in and out so many times by then I didn't think it could get out of place. Well no matter what I tried to do it would not line up and go back in. Even tried to fill float with flush so it might float into place and it didn't even float. That really made wonder what I had done so finally I had enough and started to disassemble the unit to get to the float.    After marking it twice to locate it I drilled and ground out the two welds that hold the float to the top. Then had to clean some paint from the float housing to get it to come out.  Finally it was free.  Attachments:
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When the blockage opened up the float guide pin was not in the float. I had it in and out so many times by then I didn't think it could get out of place. Well no matter what I tried to do it would not line up and go back in. Even tried to fill float with flush so it might float into place and it didn't even float. That really made wonder what I had done so finally I had enough and started to disassemble the unit to get to the float.
