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Post by timeswelding on Aug 29, 2015 23:15:04 GMT
I know folks have their preferences, but I think any refrigerator thst is still functioning properly after 80+ years is pretty remarkable.
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Post by Travis on Aug 30, 2015 0:22:14 GMT
Chris,
It's obvious that refrigeration design improved through the years. I think the only series that GE considered a failure was the CA's. I would bet that lost quite a bit designing the the form A for one year of production and then the form B for another year. I guess all wasn't lost, since the design of the CA form B is basically that of a CK. The CK's are wonderful solid units. I just think their exterior is a bit boring.
I do also like the CA form A because they're different.
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Post by ChrisJ on Aug 30, 2015 0:31:42 GMT
Chris, It's obvious that refrigeration design improved through the years. I think the only series that GE considered a failure was the CA's. I would bet that lost quite a bit designing the the form A for one year of production and then the form B for another year. I guess all wasn't lost, since the design of the CA form B is basically that of a CK. The CK's are wonderful solid units. I just think their exterior is a bit boring. I do also like the CA form A because they're different. I believe the first patent for methyl formate from GE was in 1928. Fact is, aside from burping CAs are fantastic machines and burping isn't an issue for us. The float valve issue is a mystery. We have no idea how many hours the machines had on them before this happened. Was it 15 years? 30? 60? My soup can is making another batch of Jell-O for me as we speak. Yes, I do have an addiction.  |
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Post by Travis on Aug 30, 2015 1:01:08 GMT
I do wonder why GE abandoned the CA after only two years. They can and do run fine. Then again, the DR's can run fine also. I would likely be satisfied with a CK if it had open coils and a type C control.
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Post by daveinqca on Aug 30, 2015 1:36:45 GMT
Doug, This unit is going on my 48" 2 door cabinet to be sold. Double evaporator units are rare regardless of type. Chris, Yes, I have a CK35 unit that would be my emergency spare for the DR3. My main reason for keeping it is that I doubt I could get enough for it to justify selling it. All of my double units came on cabinets with a sizable shipping cost attached. I do love the CK's, but the DR's are the best.
Travis,
Since the DRs are the best, I think you should keep the DR35 and sell the CK35 with the double door cabinet. 
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Post by ChrisJ on Aug 30, 2015 1:42:27 GMT
My guess is a few things.
1: non-condensable gas.
2: cost to manufacture the rotary compressor. I'm assuming it's tolerances must be closer than that of the scotch-yoke.
3: more expensive evaporator vs the CK with it's smaller passages and single header.
4: the rotary pump must exhaust into the compressor housing due to the huge quantity of oil needed to provide a good seal. This means a heater is required.
5: not sure but I believe methyl formate removes twice the heat as SO2 meaning it's harder to regulate. I read this regarding other refrigerants and Freon was mentioned to be easier to throttle than SO2 which was considered a bonus. I was very surprised to see methyl formate removed almost double the heat for the same quantity of liquid VS SO2 and that the huge passages in the evaporator and suction line are because of the super low pressures, not the quantity of refrigerant. This is also why the pump is 3 times the volume of an SO2 machine, hard to pump a lot of vapor when there's not much there.
Fact is, the CK is stronger, quieter, more efficient, more reliable and cheaper to build than all other machines, period. Bar none.
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Post by Travis on Aug 30, 2015 1:46:43 GMT
Travis,
Since the DRs are the best, I think you should keep the DR35 and sell the CK35 with the double door cabinet.
I guess that's a possibility, though I think this D35 unit would look more stunning on the porcelain cabinet with monel trim. |
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Post by daveinqca on Aug 30, 2015 3:26:53 GMT
does the box have wooden door openings or the black material? It seems to me, as much as I love the appearance of the DR machines, that the best thing is to keep the package original. But, that is just the way I look at everything, whether houses, or whatever. I have friends that like to add details to their historic house that were never there, but rather borrowed from another. I always prefer to keep to the original appearance.
I guess I'm applying historic preservation standards to antique refrigerators..... not sure if that makes sense or not. I just can't help it.
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Post by Travis on Aug 30, 2015 4:32:47 GMT
I honestly don't recall. I believe it also has textolite strips. Both are suitable for a D35 and newer unit. The wood trim was only on the earlier cabinets.
You also have to realize that virtually no one realizes the minor detail. For example, my DR3 may have had a type A control, but it now has a type C. I didn't change it, nor do I have a type A control, so the type C will have to do.
The 48" cabinet I have came to me with a CK35. The D35 unit was on a painted cabinet with textolite strips. CK35 units were used as replacements for a DR or D unit. That's why it's impossible to determine what was original.
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Post by vintageguy on Aug 30, 2015 5:30:20 GMT
does the box have wooden door openings or the black material? It seems to me, as much as I love the appearance of the DR machines, that the best thing is to keep the package original. But, that is just the way I look at everything, whether houses, or whatever. I have friends that like to add details to their historic house that were never there, but rather borrowed from another. I always prefer to keep to the original appearance. I guess I'm applying historic preservation standards to antique refrigerators..... not sure if that makes sense or not. I just can't help it. Hear. hear... I couldn't agree more. We tore out the 1970 drop-ceiling kitchen with stainless steel stove from our 1920 English cottage and brought back plaster, fir cabinets, Marmoleum flooring, DR-1 Refrigerating Machine, Hoosier baker's cabinet and 1920 Spark stove with three ovens. We had new 8 over 1 windows made to match the rest of the house and replace aluminum, sliding windows. We removed a large nearly new deck from the back of the house because it wasn't "period appropriate". Come on over. You'll step back to 1920 when you walk in. |
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Post by coldspaces on Aug 30, 2015 5:34:50 GMT
Been running this unit the last few days when I am in the garage. More persuasion on the bottom of the float also. It is definitely doing more cooling but don't think it is all the way there yet. Have had more cooling in the left evap than at first but not as cold as the right one. Not warm all the way through the condenser and float housing yet either but father than it was. Going to try to get it on a cabinet soon and see what it does. Only have the 1 door cabinet thought.
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Post by daveinqca on Aug 30, 2015 18:35:26 GMT
I honestly don't recall. I believe it also has textolite strips. Both are suitable for a D35 and newer unit. The wood trim was only on the earlier cabinets. You also have to realize that virtually no one realizes the minor detail. For example, my DR3 may have had a type A control, but it now has a type C. I didn't change it, nor do I have a type A control, so the type C will have to do. The 48" cabinet I have came to me with a CK35. The D35 unit was on a painted cabinet with textolite strips. CK35 units were used as replacements for a DR or D unit. That's why it's impossible to determine what was original. Travis, I was just looking back at the pics of your DR-3 and I have to agree with you that the DR machine on top of the 2 door box with monel trim is certainly a beautiful sight to behold. However, I also looked at the image in the 1934 Salesman's Brochure, and the P-134 with the CK-35 machine is also a real beauty!
As you have knowledgeably pointed out, either the DR unit or the CK unit would be appropriate on the cabinet. I guess that leaves it to personal preference as to which one is more desirable.
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Post by Travis on Aug 30, 2015 19:14:03 GMT
It's all preference.
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Post by coldspaces on Sept 2, 2015 5:07:20 GMT
Well this unit has been running for 2 days now on a one door cabinet. It took 4 1/2 hours to pull down and shut of the first time. I was aiding it with a fan to help keep things cool. It did frost both coils but seems to frost the right one better. I decided that messing with the float had stopped making a difference and the unit was consistently drawing 300 watts when it warmed up all the way. Kinda hard to be there to watch it enough with such long on and off cycles but it runs about 1 1/2 hours on and maybe 3 or more off. After watching it for 1 1/2 days I decided that it was over charged. Coil wasn't warm all the way to the float. A check of the subcooling showed it had more liquid backed up in the condenser than was needed. I recovered some charge till I had 2 lbs out. That seemed to be too much and left me with no sub cooling and a little less frost on the left evap. and tonight I put 4 oz back in. That puts the charge at about 4 lbs right now. It was running about 270 -280 watts max with less charge. Will have to see what the 4 oz does to that. Here is a few shots of these very nice siamese twinned evaps I took before I drop them into the cabinet.   |
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Post by coldspaces on Sept 15, 2015 17:07:39 GMT
Been a bit side tracked recently as the wife's Blazer stranded us with a bad transmission about a week ago. Now awaiting parts so last the last few nights I finally found some time to play with this unit again. Recovered the 134a, cut line after float and removed drier.The float was definitely block again. I spent several hours pushing Supco 88 through it with nitrogen and finally coil flush through it. It is opened again I think but no way to clean out the inside of the float like I would like. Wish they all bolted together. May put it back together and see what happens this time. Tipped like this is enough to cause the float to open.   |
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