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Post by coldspaces on Apr 7, 2014 22:34:38 GMT
As Travis predicted I just have to see if the stalled DR-2 he gave me is really done before I rob it of its so2. One thing is sure it was definitely stalled. I tried to start it with my Annie and it would not budge even with a start capacitor. After nothing else worked I decided I nothing to loose if I try 240 volt jolt. Hooked the Annie to the welder outlet and that did the trick. Starts and runs now and draws normal amps. Not very quiet though. Ran it for about 10 mins and it was chilling the brine. Here is a video link s556.photobucket.com/user/1stgenerationchevyII/media/Seized%20DR-2/MOV08991_zpsfb838a79.mp4.html?sort=3&o=1
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Post by jhigdon2 on Apr 7, 2014 22:42:53 GMT
Sounds like another needle and seat cleaning job in your future.
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Post by allan on Apr 7, 2014 22:48:37 GMT
Has the oil been preheated yet?
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Post by Travis on Apr 7, 2014 23:23:02 GMT
It used to run for 20 min and get loud. It always cooled some. I was bad and let it run until it stalled. I wanted to see what it would do. Now I know. I won't do that again.
I have the control. I saw the start resistor for the control elsewhere. I'll find it again. You have seem my collections.
It might not have a heater in it now. You might stick that heater from the DR3 in there and see if it quiets down. From what I know now, the float is restricted.
I can bring you a stalled Westinghouse unit for the SO2, but you need to stop fixing them or you won't have the SO2!
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Post by coldspaces on Apr 7, 2014 23:47:10 GMT
No heater in it at this time. Hadn't thought about borrowing the DR3's. May not even end up with so2 in the ball top, may end up using this unit for the filter drier test before its over with. But first I have another experiment to try.
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Post by cablehack on Apr 7, 2014 23:48:10 GMT
I haven't had any opportunity to try it, but for a stalled motor it might be worth trying to run it in reverse by swapping the start and run windings, and putting a capacitor in series with what is normally the run winding. You'd need a manual start switch.
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Post by coldspaces on Apr 7, 2014 23:50:41 GMT
I haven't had any opportunity to try it, but for a stalled motor it might be worth trying to run it in reverse by swapping the start and run windings, and putting a capacitor in series with what is normally the run winding. You'd need a manual start switch. Did all that with the Annie and it didn't do anything till I doubled the volts.
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Post by cablehack on Apr 8, 2014 0:13:12 GMT
Ah I see, so that's what an Annie is...hadn't heard of it before. I had seen a test box type thing in a book so it must be that.
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Post by coldspaces on Apr 8, 2014 3:45:11 GMT
With some work I got the heater well cleaned out and was able to get the DR3 heater in. I also rigged up a temporary relay, overload and cord.
I ran it for more than an hour and the evap was frosting but not fully. While watching it run I noticed that this DR2 has a bolt on dome with the same bolts as Travis's DR3 Can't read any of the model tag at all. Serial is there starts with 44 and has dashes. Has a rebuild tag also. Now I am wondering if this is just been run way too long without a working heater or low on so2(some were low from the factory) and is oil logged. Guess a restricted float wound also cause a low frost line and poor oil return. The heater is peculating the oil so best let her heat till tomorrow and see what the frost does then..
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Post by jhigdon2 on Apr 8, 2014 3:53:06 GMT
Did it have a nice warm float chamber and does evap make a sound like large low frequency bubbles rising to the top of a witches cauldron?
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Post by coldspaces on Apr 8, 2014 4:08:39 GMT
No the float chamber never got warm. top 1/2 of condenser did but it took a while. The evap is too quiet compared to my 32 DR2.
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Post by jhigdon2 on Apr 8, 2014 4:26:09 GMT
HHmm. They usually get pretty warm. Unless at low ambients. It takes considerable energy to cool cool the brine.
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Post by jhigdon2 on Apr 8, 2014 4:36:07 GMT
Pig evap is very quiet. Just makes "bloop bloop" sounds. Most of them I have worked on are siezed from a surplus of refrigerant trapped in sump caused by either a bad heater or clogged seat or both.
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Post by coldspaces on Apr 8, 2014 4:47:32 GMT
I am hoping its the heater and I can get some oil to return and see what happens. I did put the last few oz of Supco88 I had in it tonight. It is supposed to be able to clean out restricted cap tubes so it might clean the float seat. Should have put in 6 or so oz but need to get more first.
If I get the oil to return and get more supco in who knows. I hope it will start again, didn't want too after running it that long.
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Post by coldspaces on Apr 9, 2014 2:31:02 GMT
Well I now have about 5-6 oz of Supco 88 in the system and seem to have loosen up something that has plugged the float completely. Now I hear no bubbling in the evap and the watts are lower that 150. Looks like I may be recovering the charge no this one yet. First I will give more time and see if the Supco 88 loosens things any more and opens things up.
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