kdake
New Member
Posts: 6
|
Post by kdake on Jul 26, 2023 1:18:13 GMT
Hi there everybody, I'm new here but have been lurking and reading posts for a while! I am trying to buy what I believe is a CK-35 with a double door cabinet with the enamel exterior finish and brass strapping for next to nothing... The guy who is selling it inherited it with the house. He says since he's owned it, it's never gotten cold. He does say that when you plug it in, the compressor runs and "sounds like it should". Not sure if he has waited long enough for it to try and get cold, but he got kinda snappy when I asked questions about it cooling. He is selling it as dry storage and posits that it is very nice and the previous owner was a collector of old things. That's all I've got. Wondering what the odds are of making it get cold again? I would love to use it as my main fridge (we have a modern fridge in the basement just in case). I'm very handy and am not afraid to rewire and such. I'm also in the Seattle area if anyone knows of someone who can repair it up here in the Northwest? AND is it even physically possible to lay a cabinet this large down to get the top off, or would I need to build a contraption to lift the top off? I have moved a CK-2 before and have no way to comprehend how much heavier this one will be. Attaching photos from the listing. Thank you so much! K   |
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Jul 26, 2023 1:34:00 GMT
Hi there everybody, I'm new here but have been lurking and reading posts for a while! I am trying to buy what I believe is a CK-35 with a double door cabinet with the enamel exterior finish and brass strapping for next to nothing... The guy who is selling it inherited it with the house. He says since he's owned it, it's never gotten cold. He does say that when you plug it in, the compressor runs and "sounds like it should". Not sure if he has waited long enough for it to try and get cold, but he got kinda snappy when I asked questions about it cooling. He is selling it as dry storage and posits that it is very nice and the previous owner was a collector of old things. That's all I've got. Wondering what the odds are of making it get cold again? I would love to use it as my main fridge (we have a modern fridge in the basement just in case). I'm very handy and am not afraid to rewire and such. I'm also in the Seattle area if anyone knows of someone who can repair it up here in the Northwest? AND is it even physically possible to lay a cabinet this large down to get the top off, or would I need to build a contraption to lift the top off? I have moved a CK-2 before and have no way to comprehend how much heavier this one will be. Attaching photos from the listing. Thank you so much! K View AttachmentView Attachment That is a beautiful cabinet! As far as getting it working, it is about 95% chance that a running compressor not cooling can be made to cool again. This will require that it is brought to a specialist to get it fixed, so be prepared to travel with it. You will need to hoist the top off; or strap the top onto the cabinet and transport it assembled. Sincerely, David |
|
kdake
New Member
Posts: 6
|
Post by kdake on Jul 26, 2023 1:45:44 GMT
That is a beautiful cabinet! As far as getting it working, it is about 95% chance that a running compressor not cooling can be made to cool again. This will require that it is brought to a specialist to get it fixed, so be prepared to travel with it. You will need to hoist the top off; or strap the top onto the cabinet and transport it assembled. Sincerely, David I like those odds! Do you happen to know of any specialists in the Pacific Northwest? The other follow up question would be, would a single CK-2 sized evaporator be enough to cool this cabinet if the top is dead dead and needed to be replaced? Or would the size of the cabinet strain the machine too hard? The cabinet is so dang pretty! Thank you so much for your reply, K |
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Jul 26, 2023 2:10:46 GMT
That is a beautiful cabinet! As far as getting it working, it is about 95% chance that a running compressor not cooling can be made to cool again. This will require that it is brought to a specialist to get it fixed, so be prepared to travel with it. You will need to hoist the top off; or strap the top onto the cabinet and transport it assembled. Sincerely, David I like those odds! Do you happen to know of any specialists in the Pacific Northwest? The other follow up question would be, would a single CK-2 sized evaporator be enough to cool this cabinet if the top is dead dead and needed to be replaced? Or would the size of the cabinet strain the machine too hard? The cabinet is so dang pretty! Thank you so much for your reply, K I just don't know of anyone in the Northwest. As for the evaporator design, it needs the dual evaporator and a smaller unit will not suffice. If you can't find anyone local; you are welcome to send it to Alabama to my place. There have been many sent from California, Maine, and Miami area and areas nearer to me as well; for repairs. Sincerely, David |
|
|
|
Post by ckfan on Jul 26, 2023 14:16:34 GMT
Yeah, I agree with what David said. You’ll either have to pull the top off or strap it on and move it as one unit. Unfortunately there aren’t too many people willing to work on these, but David is one of the best.
|
|
|
|
Post by don on Jul 26, 2023 19:40:15 GMT
Out of curiosity is it possible for two people to lift the refrigerating assembly from the top of the cabinet?
Or two 2x4 under each side of the assembly with four people lifting?
|
|
|
|
Post by ckfan on Jul 27, 2023 11:36:54 GMT
Two people may be able to do it weight wise. The issue is the height. More people would always be better unless they are getting in the way.
|
|
marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 141
|
Post by marko on Jul 27, 2023 23:05:53 GMT
It is or will be a project. Plan it carefully.
|
|
|
|
Post by cablehack on Jul 28, 2023 22:47:43 GMT
Out of curiosity is it possible for two people to lift the refrigerating assembly from the top of the cabinet? Or two 2x4 under each side of the assembly with four people lifting? Did that with my CA-1 when I picked it up from its previous owner. We could only just lift the evaporator clear of the cabinet - the height making it more difficult than anything else. I wouldn't even contemplate size 2 or 3 cooling units. There was a special GE hoist for these fridges, but an engine hoist is an excellent substitute in the modern day. |
|
kdake
New Member
Posts: 6
|
Post by kdake on Aug 7, 2023 2:54:31 GMT
Alrighty! So an update! I picked up the CK-35-16 with the chrome edges and double doors last Sunday (and then immediately got sick). As far as moving it went, I built a crate for the top as well as building two 14"x12"x48" platforms for us to stand on to be able to gently lift the top off. (I had seen someone else post that they had successfully removed a CK-3 top by standing on a platform). There were four of us and it was pretty effortless getting it up and out; we managed to get it into it's crate and strapped down with no breaks or SO2 leaks. During my week of being sick after picking it up, I got around to reading through the entire service manual. I finally got to turn it on today to see what would happen. Unfortunately, all I get when I turn the front dial to "on" is a soft electric hum from the relay. When I was searching for the hum, I also realized the relay has just been hanging out inside of the top, somewhere along the line it lost it's mounting screw. Would love to get this working, so what's the next step, new relay? Fixing the old one? Rewiring and seeing what happens? The insulation on the wires is definitely hitting that crispy stage. Thank you! K     |
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Aug 7, 2023 14:06:31 GMT
Alrighty! So an update! I picked up the CK-35-16 with the chrome edges and double doors last Sunday (and then immediately got sick). As far as moving it went, I built a crate for the top as well as building two 14"x12"x48" platforms for us to stand on to be able to gently lift the top off. (I had seen someone else post that they had successfully removed a CK-3 top by standing on a platform). There were four of us and it was pretty effortless getting it up and out; we managed to get it into it's crate and strapped down with no breaks or SO2 leaks. During my week of being sick after picking it up, I got around to reading through the entire service manual. I finally got to turn it on today to see what would happen. Unfortunately, all I get when I turn the front dial to "on" is a soft electric hum from the relay. When I was searching for the hum, I also realized the relay has just been hanging out inside of the top, somewhere along the line it lost it's mounting screw. Would love to get this working, so what's the next step, new relay? Fixing the old one? Rewiring and seeing what happens? The insulation on the wires is definitely hitting that crispy stage. Thank you! K View AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentGlad you were able to get this one; but sorry you spent a week feeling bad. As for the humming sound; the CK3 series have a starting capacitor (at least most of them do.) This is in a compartment under the cooling unit, accessed through an opening in the cardboard insulation surround. That is the most likely problem. Second most likely is the relay its self. The relay can be opened up and inspected for worn contacts. But I would change the capacitor first and see if that gets it up and going! Sincerely, David |
|
kdake
New Member
Posts: 6
|
Post by kdake on Aug 7, 2023 21:09:14 GMT
Alrighty! So an update! I picked up the CK-35-16 with the chrome edges and double doors last Sunday (and then immediately got sick). As far as moving it went, I built a crate for the top as well as building two 14"x12"x48" platforms for us to stand on to be able to gently lift the top off. (I had seen someone else post that they had successfully removed a CK-3 top by standing on a platform). There were four of us and it was pretty effortless getting it up and out; we managed to get it into it's crate and strapped down with no breaks or SO2 leaks. During my week of being sick after picking it up, I got around to reading through the entire service manual. I finally got to turn it on today to see what would happen. Unfortunately, all I get when I turn the front dial to "on" is a soft electric hum from the relay. When I was searching for the hum, I also realized the relay has just been hanging out inside of the top, somewhere along the line it lost it's mounting screw. Would love to get this working, so what's the next step, new relay? Fixing the old one? Rewiring and seeing what happens? The insulation on the wires is definitely hitting that crispy stage. Thank you! K View AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentGlad you were able to get this one; but sorry you spent a week feeling bad. As for the humming sound; the CK3 series have a starting capacitor (at least most of them do.) This is in a compartment under the cooling unit, accessed through an opening in the cardboard insulation surround. That is the most likely problem. Second most likely is the relay its self. The relay can be opened up and inspected for worn contacts. But I would change the capacitor first and see if that gets it up and going! Sincerely, David Thanks David! I tried searching back through old posts to find what capacitor specs I need with no luck; do I just need to fish the old one out and see what it says on the side? I know functionally what capacitors do, just have zero clue how they're rated? I'm also going to open up the relay and take a peek. The outside terminals are all pretty tidy and corrosion free. Thank you for the help! |
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Aug 8, 2023 2:32:17 GMT
Glad you were able to get this one; but sorry you spent a week feeling bad. As for the humming sound; the CK3 series have a starting capacitor (at least most of them do.) This is in a compartment under the cooling unit, accessed through an opening in the cardboard insulation surround. That is the most likely problem. Second most likely is the relay its self. The relay can be opened up and inspected for worn contacts. But I would change the capacitor first and see if that gets it up and going! Sincerely, David Thanks David! I tried searching back through old posts to find what capacitor specs I need with no luck; do I just need to fish the old one out and see what it says on the side? I know functionally what capacitors do, just have zero clue how they're rated? I'm also going to open up the relay and take a peek. The outside terminals are all pretty tidy and corrosion free. Thank you for the help! I believe they are 80 uF capacitor. |
|
kdake
New Member
Posts: 6
|
Post by kdake on Mar 28, 2024 20:11:17 GMT
*Finally* had life calm down enough where I can work on the fridge. I rigged up a test capacitor and it started up and began cooling perfectly, so quietly too! Then I started taking it apart to rewire... The cardboard under the top had water damage, mold, and some rust on the porcelain was present. I had assumed maybe a bad seal; well when I got all of the insulation out I found what I think is a rubber seal that's supposed to go around the thermostat arm just laying loose inside? I'm assuming when the top was replaced it came loose and no one ever noticed and that's what all the water damage is from. So that leads me to two questions, 1. Is there a recommended replacement for that seal? I am attaching a picture of the original one. While it's all in one piece right now, I can tell if I try to reuse it that it will crumble. 2. What's my best course of action for fixing the rusted washers and nuts? My best guess is that its possible to break them free and replace, but I don't know if the risk is worth the reward since they're nested near the condensers. Thank you! (I can't upload an attachment for some reason so here are links) This is the rubber gasket I found that I think goes around the thermostat arm and plugs the hole in the porcelain sheet -> drive.google.com/file/d/1iFHTYIwUHblJmdgRdPGDBQb66iWgwq80/view?usp=sharingThese are the heavily rusted nuts and washer -> drive.google.com/file/d/1iAoaaQTggYndWcb7oE2ReXlQA1XQ2vJ1/view?usp=sharing |
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Mar 29, 2024 11:56:54 GMT
*Finally* had life calm down enough where I can work on the fridge. I rigged up a test capacitor and it started up and began cooling perfectly, so quietly too! Then I started taking it apart to rewire... The cardboard under the top had water damage, mold, and some rust on the porcelain was present. I had assumed maybe a bad seal; well when I got all of the insulation out I found what I think is a rubber seal that's supposed to go around the thermostat arm just laying loose inside? I'm assuming when the top was replaced it came loose and no one ever noticed and that's what all the water damage is from. So that leads me to two questions, 1. Is there a recommended replacement for that seal? I am attaching a picture of the original one. While it's all in one piece right now, I can tell if I try to reuse it that it will crumble. 2. What's my best course of action for fixing the rusted washers and nuts? My best guess is that its possible to break them free and replace, but I don't know if the risk is worth the reward since they're nested near the condensers. Thank you! This is great news to hear, that it runs and cools! Normally, water damage around the cardboard surround and inside the insulation area is caused by a bad gasket where the cooling unit sits on the cabinet. It can also be caused by water ingress due to people allowing water to run into the machine along the wiring or thermostat probe. This can be due to leaving the unit outdoors, or washing it. The rusted nuts are typical. They used aluminum bolts with steel nuts. It will be "opening a can of worms" so to speak; to disturb them. When I have to take the evaporators off for repairs, I always cut the nuts away with a grinder. It would be too risky on an assembled / charged unit to do that. I would either leave them as they are because that is a concealed area; or coat them with a rust resistant coating such as POR15. As for the thermostat seal, often GE would leave one or more "spare" ones in the insulation space! Also found wire connectors, screws, and other spare parts they apparently dropped and left in there. You can surely use that one if it's still pliable. If not, I have been using cork and tar sealant to seal around this area, as well as the cables from the top. This is like a gum you can form into whatever shape you need. https://www.zoro.com/nu-calgon-cork-tape-self-adhesive-30-ftx2-in-black-4217-12/i/G1202677/ Sincerely, David |
|
