Post by kdake on Mar 30, 2024 16:04:58 GMT
Okay cool! Thank you for this thorough reply, I'm glad I erred on the side of caution and asked first!
I was reading that old car enthusiasts have had luck rehydrating rubber parts with wintergreen oil and alcohol so I was going to see if I could get mine to be pliable again. Worth a shot! If not, I will use your cork and tar solution. And that's kind of a cool tidbit that they'd leave spare parts in the top. I also have all new seals for the cabinet coming today so hopefully I can remedy the moisture problem by replacing everything :]
So that leads me to two questions,
1. Is there a recommended replacement for that seal? I am attaching a picture of the original one. While it's all in one piece right now, I can tell if I try to reuse it that it will crumble.
2. What's my best course of action for fixing the rusted washers and nuts? My best guess is that its possible to break them free and replace, but I don't know if the risk is worth the reward since they're nested near the condensers.
Thank you!
This is great news to hear, that it runs and cools!
Normally, water damage around the cardboard surround and inside the insulation area is caused by a bad gasket where the cooling unit sits on the cabinet. It can also be caused by water ingress due to people allowing water to run into the machine along the wiring or thermostat probe. This can be due to leaving the unit outdoors, or washing it.
The rusted nuts are typical. They used aluminum bolts with steel nuts. It will be "opening a can of worms" so to speak; to disturb them. When I have to take the evaporators off for repairs, I always cut the nuts away with a grinder. It would be too risky on an assembled / charged unit to do that. I would either leave them as they are because that is a concealed area; or coat them with a rust resistant coating such as POR15.
As for the thermostat seal, often GE would leave one or more "spare" ones in the insulation space! Also found wire connectors, screws, and other spare parts they apparently dropped and left in there. You can surely use that one if it's still pliable. If not, I have been using cork and tar sealant to seal around this area, as well as the cables from the top. This is like a gum you can form into whatever shape you need.
Sincerely,
David
I was reading that old car enthusiasts have had luck rehydrating rubber parts with wintergreen oil and alcohol so I was going to see if I could get mine to be pliable again. Worth a shot! If not, I will use your cork and tar solution. And that's kind of a cool tidbit that they'd leave spare parts in the top. I also have all new seals for the cabinet coming today so hopefully I can remedy the moisture problem by replacing everything :]
*Finally* had life calm down enough where I can work on the fridge. I rigged up a test capacitor and it started up and began cooling perfectly, so quietly too! Then I started taking it apart to rewire... The cardboard under the top had water damage, mold, and some rust on the porcelain was present. I had assumed maybe a bad seal; well when I got all of the insulation out I found what I think is a rubber seal that's supposed to go around the thermostat arm just laying loose inside? I'm assuming when the top was replaced it came loose and no one ever noticed and that's what all the water damage is from.
So that leads me to two questions,
1. Is there a recommended replacement for that seal? I am attaching a picture of the original one. While it's all in one piece right now, I can tell if I try to reuse it that it will crumble.
2. What's my best course of action for fixing the rusted washers and nuts? My best guess is that its possible to break them free and replace, but I don't know if the risk is worth the reward since they're nested near the condensers.
Thank you!
Normally, water damage around the cardboard surround and inside the insulation area is caused by a bad gasket where the cooling unit sits on the cabinet. It can also be caused by water ingress due to people allowing water to run into the machine along the wiring or thermostat probe. This can be due to leaving the unit outdoors, or washing it.
The rusted nuts are typical. They used aluminum bolts with steel nuts. It will be "opening a can of worms" so to speak; to disturb them. When I have to take the evaporators off for repairs, I always cut the nuts away with a grinder. It would be too risky on an assembled / charged unit to do that. I would either leave them as they are because that is a concealed area; or coat them with a rust resistant coating such as POR15.
As for the thermostat seal, often GE would leave one or more "spare" ones in the insulation space! Also found wire connectors, screws, and other spare parts they apparently dropped and left in there. You can surely use that one if it's still pliable. If not, I have been using cork and tar sealant to seal around this area, as well as the cables from the top. This is like a gum you can form into whatever shape you need.
https://www.zoro.com/nu-calgon-cork-tape-self-adhesive-30-ftx2-in-black-4217-12/i/G1202677/
Sincerely,
David