zaneb94
New Member
Posts: 34
Location: Northern Michigan
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Post by zaneb94 on Mar 4, 2023 18:49:00 GMT
Good news! I just went ahead and wired in the Supco relay with the Common and Start wires swapped as you pointed out, and the fridge started up! It sounded a little funny when trying the old relay, but now it's starting to cool and cycle as before. Thanks for all the help!
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zaneb94
New Member
Posts: 34
Location: Northern Michigan
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Post by zaneb94 on Mar 4, 2023 20:17:45 GMT
I confirmed that the start up is no longer labored and starts immediately. After monitoring the fridge while it was running, I determined that it got below 32 degrees and didn't stop cooling. I found that the On/Off switch or temp control weren't affecting the shut off period. I heard the temp unit's 'tink' that normally shuts off the circuit, but this didn't stop the compressor from running. I have included the current diagram that I'm using for reference, accounting for the electrician's swap of the Common to White and Black to Start. Oddly, I unplugged the fridge to allow the relay time to reset. I had the Power nob set to Off, and the fridge didn't power on when reconnecting the cord. I switched to On which turned on the fridge. I then waited a few seconds before trying to turn to Off, but this didn't do anything. Attachments:
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 5, 2023 13:07:12 GMT
I confirmed that the start up is no longer labored and starts immediately. After monitoring the fridge while it was running, I determined that it got below 32 degrees and didn't stop cooling. I found that the On/Off switch or temp control weren't affecting the shut off period. I heard the temp unit's 'tink' that normally shuts off the circuit, but this didn't stop the compressor from running. I have included the current diagram that I'm using for reference, accounting for the electrician's swap of the Common to White and Black to Start. Oddly, I unplugged the fridge to allow the relay time to reset. I had the Power nob set to Off, and the fridge didn't power on when reconnecting the cord. I switched to On which turned on the fridge. I then waited a few seconds before trying to turn to Off, but this didn't do anything. Sorry I disappeared yesterday. Was traveling through airports all day and ended up with delays etc. With the internal wiring not done correctly, I am afraid that the factory thermostat is not breaking the correct part of the circuit. It may be breaking only the start circuit as opposed to the common. This is very bad since the factory overload breaker is in the original control. Granted, the Supco device has an overload breaker inside it. However, if the original relay is put back, you will have no protection. I will see about getting a diagram made up this morning.
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zaneb94
New Member
Posts: 34
Location: Northern Michigan
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Post by zaneb94 on Mar 5, 2023 14:21:35 GMT
Thanks! I pulled the plug on the unit after noticing the shut off issue. It's currently on the Supco unit
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 5, 2023 14:44:32 GMT
Thanks! I pulled the plug on the unit after noticing the shut off issue. It's currently on the Supco unit This diagram will help, I expect. Note that the drawing does not necessarily show the terminals in their respective positions on the bottom of the compressor. I think the CA and CK machines have the terminals in different orientation even though they look similar on the bottom. I looked over pictures today and found two different layouts, so that is a cautionary tale for all of us.
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zaneb94
New Member
Posts: 34
Location: Northern Michigan
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Post by zaneb94 on Mar 6, 2023 15:33:05 GMT
I appreciate the diagram! This makes sense based on the symptoms we are seeing. The temp control is breaking the circuit for the black wire, which you've helped identify was swapped on the compressor with the White. I'll have my electrician friend swap the Common and Start cables on the compressor, and it looks like we'll be in good shape.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 6, 2023 15:40:26 GMT
I appreciate the diagram! This makes sense based on the symptoms we are seeing. The temp control is breaking the circuit for the black wire, which you've helped identify was swapped on the compressor with the White. I'll have my electrician friend swap the Common and Start cables on the compressor, and it looks like we'll be in good shape. I expect that you'll be good once that is done!
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zaneb94
New Member
Posts: 34
Location: Northern Michigan
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Post by zaneb94 on Mar 13, 2023 0:50:33 GMT
We're all set now. The CK has been working well after the wire swap on the compressor side.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 13, 2023 3:45:16 GMT
We're all set now. The CK has been working well after the wire swap on the compressor side. So glad it's working for you!
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zaneb94
New Member
Posts: 34
Location: Northern Michigan
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Post by zaneb94 on Mar 13, 2023 12:58:05 GMT
Thanks! We couldn't get into the unit enough to rewire the light, but that'll be another time lol. I'm wondering if anyone has shown the process of getting to the socket and wiring since it looks like we'll need to rip out all of the insulation in the cabinet. I'm sure that'll be a good idea anyways since it's all original too.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 13, 2023 13:20:51 GMT
Thanks! We couldn't get into the unit enough to rewire the light, but that'll be another time lol. I'm wondering if anyone has shown the process of getting to the socket and wiring since it looks like we'll need to rip out all of the insulation in the cabinet. I'm sure that'll be a good idea anyways since it's all original too. I have done a socket wiring video! Let me dig that up. The key is not to try to take the liner out of the cabinet nor take the Textolite out. For most cabinets I have run across, this has been the case. Use the old wiring to "fish" new wire down to the socket; and use the switch wiring to "lower" the new switch into the gap around the Textolite. https://youtu.be/tsrE4hLzoBo
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zaneb94
New Member
Posts: 34
Location: Northern Michigan
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Post by zaneb94 on Mar 13, 2023 14:29:20 GMT
Perfect! Thanks for all the info! Is there any word on a forum member making the old light socket plugs that go into the back of the cabinet? I've seen that they generally have to be fabricated from a regular extension cord.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 13, 2023 14:47:17 GMT
Perfect! Thanks for all the info! Is there any word on a forum member making the old light socket plugs that go into the back of the cabinet? I've seen that they generally have to be fabricated from a regular extension cord. Unfortunately nobody is currently making the connectors. I've just resigned to modifying extension cords, as much as I hate it. The only other alternative I know of is to replace the entire inlet assembly with a modern 3-wire NEMA 5-15P style. Then an unmodified extension cord end will fit. The gotcha with that idea is the smaller cabinets don't have room for the larger inlet in the space provided.
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zaneb94
New Member
Posts: 34
Location: Northern Michigan
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Post by zaneb94 on May 7, 2023 19:37:24 GMT
I've been running on the above configuration without issues until today. It seems the Supco relay overload is tripping regardless of the outlet I'm attached to or if left to sit powered 'off' for a bit.
Here are the steps I've performed during troubleshooting:
-Powered off the fridge, let set until Supco relay resets -Switched outlets to confirm there isn't a short on the circuit -Ensured the control 'tink' resets before powering on fridge -Confirmed this is happening regardless of temp setting
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Post by turbokinetic on May 7, 2023 20:17:04 GMT
I've been running on the above configuration without issues until today. It seems the Supco relay overload is tripping regardless of the outlet I'm attached to or if left to sit powered 'off' for a bit. Here are the steps I've performed during troubleshooting: -Powered off the fridge, let set until Supco relay resets -Switched outlets to confirm there isn't a short on the circuit -Ensured the control 'tink' resets before powering on fridge -Confirmed this is happening regardless of temp setting That's very frustrating. The Supco relays provide a time start pulse, versus measuring current like the original relay did. If the compressor happens to be slightly stuck due to a piece of carbon or some other debris in the system, sometimes the Soupco device may not get it going whereas the original relay would have. When it is trying to start, do you hear the compressor start and run for a short time and then trip the overload? Is it just sit there not running at all until it trips? It's not unheard of to have a bad Supco device, although it's extremely rare.
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