jc
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 64
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Post by jc on Aug 5, 2021 15:46:15 GMT
Hi folks,
I recently acquired a beautiful CK-30-C16. I purchased it knowing it had a evap restriction. The fridge still operates within the normal parameters of the GE manual, frost within a couple minutes of power up and quickly freezes water on the bottom shelf, with a temp of 0. Run times are also good, new door gasket as well. The top gasket has not been replaced but I plan on doing that within the next few days. Frost to almost the top of the header on the left side and completely across the bottom, but the right side and shelf have no frost.
I have tried the hot water treatment and using a 100 watt light bulb with no luck. I kept the light bulb from touching the evaporator and only left it in place for about 15 minutes (lower right side) Should I try leaving it longer? The manual says the warmer the evap. the greater chance of clearing the restriction, but it also says to not heat the evap. hotter than the hand can stand.
Have any of you used the 500 Watt Calrod heaters or a torch? I understand you must be VERY careful, I have read the GE manual on clearing restrictions and the second step is to use a heater or torch. Has anyone had any luck using other methods before trying this approach?
Ambient room temp is 68 and humidity is 45% give or take. I read that with very low humidity that frosting pattern is considered normal, however I don't feel that my house humidity is that low. Plus the same frost pattern was present when I purchased the machine and it was in his garage with temps in the 80s and no air conditioning.
I have also noticed the top of the dome doesn't really get warm, compared to my CA which the dome top gets to about 100 or 105 degrees.
Thanks all
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Post by turbokinetic on Aug 5, 2021 16:05:20 GMT
Hi folks,
I recently acquired a beautiful CK-30-C16. I purchased it knowing it had a evap restriction. The fridge still operates within the normal parameters of the GE manual, frost within a couple minutes of power up and quickly freezes water on the bottom shelf, with a temp of 0. Run times are also good, new door gasket as well. The top gasket has not been replaced but I plan on doing that within the next few days. Frost to almost the top of the header on the left side and completely across the bottom, but the right side and shelf have no frost.
I have tried the hot water treatment and using a 100 watt light bulb with no luck. I kept the light bulb from touching the evaporator and only left it in place for about 15 minutes (lower right side) Should I try leaving it longer? The manual says the warmer the evap. the greater chance of clearing the restriction, but it also says to not heat the evap. hotter than the hand can stand.
Have any of you used the 500 Watt Calrod heaters or a torch? I understand you must be VERY careful, I have read the GE manual on clearing restrictions and the second step is to use a heater or torch. Has anyone had any luck using other methods before trying this approach?
Ambient room temp is 68 and humidity is 45% give or take. I read that with very low humidity that frosting pattern is considered normal, however I don't feel that my house humidity is that low. Plus the same frost pattern was present when I purchased the machine and it was in his garage with temps in the 80s and no air conditioning.
I have also noticed the top of the dome doesn't really get warm, compared to my CA which the dome top gets to about 100 or 105 degrees.
Thanks all
Glad you got this fridge! I would expect that heating the evaporator with a heat gun might be a safer way than using a torch or radiant calrod heater. The hot air from the heat gun could be directed from a distance and used to heat a wider area more carefully. As for the dome top heat; the CA uses a high-side housing compressor, where compressor discharge heat is felt on the dome. The CK is a low-side housing design, where cool return gas from the evaporator is felt on the inside of the dome. The CK does use the exterior of the dome for cooling the motor, by means of forced oil circulation. Therefore after enough extended running, the dome will get warm. If it never gets warm at all, it can be due to refrigerant flooding back to the compressor. If a significant portion of the evaporator is oil logged, that could displace refrigerant and cause this to happen. The dome may warm up after the evaporator is fully cooling.
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jc
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 64
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Post by jc on Aug 5, 2021 16:17:03 GMT
Thanks David! Yes, I am super excited to have it. I have a heat gun, but the thought never occurred to me! What a great idea!! Makes me feel much more at ease than coming at it with a torch.
Good to know about the dome, I read where there was a difference in high versus low side between those types. But that’s good to know.
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stan
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 98
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Post by stan on Aug 6, 2021 7:30:57 GMT
Hi JC, and welcome to the forum. My CK gets oil logged from time to time. I’ve found that the easiest way to get her going is to be patient with her. I unplug machine and let sit overnight (like a manual defrost) Then I use a hairdryer to warm the evaporator up, I turn the dryer off and listen for percolation sounds. When I think I’ve heard enough, I wait another 30 to a hour, then restart. There have been times that I just unplugged and defrosted overnight and that was enough. HTH Stan
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jc
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 64
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Post by jc on Aug 6, 2021 14:00:17 GMT
Stan, thanks for the info. This evap has had this clog for some time and it has persisted through several defrost cycles, hot water treatments,a 100W light bulb and a move. I will give the heat gun treatment a try and see what happens.
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stan
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 98
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Post by stan on Aug 7, 2021 3:51:39 GMT
JC Keep us posted with your progress.
Stan
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Post by turbokinetic on Aug 7, 2021 14:42:25 GMT
Stan, thanks for the info. This evap has had this clog for some time and it has persisted through several defrost cycles, hot water treatments,a 100W light bulb and a move. I will give the heat gun treatment a try and see what happens. Hopefully the heat gun will do the trick! There is a chance, however, that corrosion has set in and resulted in some sort of crystalized material in the evaporator. I've seen that a few times, however it was never on a working unit. That was always on units which had spent years with a broken line and air in the system. In these cases, the corrosion materials were green and crystalline and very hard. The ones I had were 100% blocked and not operational. I tried one "go for broke" experiment to clear the evaporator by running high pressure water through it in a reverse flow. The result was that the evaporator burst before the clog was removed. When I cut it open, the first pass was packed with green crystals. However, it could be a possibility that a more minor form of this process has happened on yours.
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stan
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 98
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Post by stan on Aug 9, 2021 5:14:38 GMT
J.C Any luck with the heat gun? Let’s hop you don’t have a condition that David has described. Thanks David for giving us the details as to what can happen to a unit that has set for years with exposer to air and the autopsy results. I’m wondering..in trying to clear a clog, I do what I do with mine, but not sure it’s the best way, or best for J.C? Is it better to apply heat after the evaporator has warmed up to room temperature? And should restating the machine be tried while evaporator is still warm? I’ve been afraid to try this with mine (not wanting grandma to run a race) But with a stubborn clog, what is the best method?
Stan
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jc
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 64
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Post by jc on Aug 9, 2021 11:58:16 GMT
Stan,
I tried it and definitely heard some gurgling, rushing sounds. I did it once the evaporator came to room temperature and after I had applied heat I let it cool down to room temperature before turning it on.
The middle shelf gets cold and the temp drops to zero, I poured a cap full of water on the thermometer and it freezes within 3-5 minutes but after running all night it still doesn't form frost like the left side and bottom.
I have the top off right now, rewiring the light circuit and replacing the top seals. I am going to Fastenal today to try and get a couple bolts for the bottom plate as they were missing (big box stores didn't have the right bolt). I also replaced the grommets around the refrigerant lines with a tar tape type compound.
I plan on trying the heat gun again while the top is still off so I can have better access.
I am also curious as to what the best approach is Stan, hopefully someone will chime in.
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Post by turbokinetic on Aug 9, 2021 12:08:40 GMT
Stan, I tried it and definitely heard some gurgling, rushing sounds. I did it once the evaporator came to room temperature and after I had applied heat I let it cool down to room temperature before turning it on. The middle shelf gets cold and the temp drops to zero, I poured a cap full of water on the thermometer and it freezes within 3-5 minutes but after running all night it still doesn't form frost like the left side and bottom. I have the top off right now, rewiring the light circuit and replacing the top seals. I am going to Fastenal today to try and get a couple bolts for the bottom plate as they were missing (big box stores didn't have the right bolt). I also replaced the grommets around the refrigerant lines with a tar tape type compound. I plan on trying the heat gun again while the top is still off so I can have better access. I am also curious as to what the best approach is Stan, hopefully someone will chime in. Hi JC, and Stan. I'm not the most experienced with this exact problem. In the cases where I have seen success with heating the evaporator resolving the problem, it worked after one try. I did it by heating the evaporator with the heat gun, while the unit is off, and then turning the unit on while hot. If two times doesn't help, then likely the problem won't respond to heating and it's wise to stop.
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jc
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 64
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Post by jc on Aug 9, 2021 12:31:08 GMT
Thanks David! I also agree, if there is no change after this attempt then I am going to leave well enough alone. Like I said, the shelf still drops to zero and freezes water very quickly. However, I never tried to turn the fridge on while hot, so I will do that this time.
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Post by ckfan on Aug 9, 2021 12:56:39 GMT
It’s strange that the shelf gets plenty cold but that the bottom and side does not. That almost sounds like a lack of refrigerant to me. The refrigerant goes to the rear pass first and then up to the shelf. Then from there it feeds the bottom and up the side where the header tank is. What does the temp at the bottom of the evaporator look like?
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jc
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 64
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Post by jc on Aug 9, 2021 13:32:10 GMT
The left side and bottom are behaving normally, good frost and great temps. The right side and shelf do not frost. Though the shelf as I mentioned gets to zero and will make ice very quickly.
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Post by turbokinetic on Aug 9, 2021 14:42:24 GMT
The left side and bottom are behaving normally, good frost and great temps. The right side and shelf do not frost. Though the shelf as I mentioned gets to zero and will make ice very quickly. I honestly suspect the issue is likely airflow in the cabinet, where the warm air first hits the left side and bottom, depositing moisture there. The other areas are just not collecting moisture. If you're able to make ice in the shelf area easily, it indicates that liquid refrigerant is indeed boiling in these passageways, allowing it to absorb heat and make ice.
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Post by ckfan on Aug 9, 2021 14:50:09 GMT
Ah, I see. I misunderstood. Sorry to add confusion. I bet it is working fine then. I think David is right. Sounds like airflow is causing the odd frost pattern. Nothing to worry about it sounds like. Even the manual says that frost will collect on the bottom and side first and not the shelf since it isn’t as cold.
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