miles
New Member
Posts: 25
|
Post by miles on Sept 1, 2021 23:01:33 GMT
Thanks for the answer! It turns out the new gasket I put around the door was too thick, and the door wasn’t closing far in enough to seal. I didn’t know until now but loosening the two screws that hold the strike plate on the cabinet allow you to slide in or out the stop steel part. I pushed it in further, retightened the screws and now the latch rests further inside the cabinet making the door a tight shut.
|
|
|
Post by joneske on Sept 2, 2021 14:07:59 GMT
Even better.
|
|
|
Post by redtangox on Sept 2, 2021 19:21:12 GMT
That is great news. So is your monitor top finished? You should share a picture of your before and after.
|
|
miles
New Member
Posts: 25
|
Post by miles on Sept 7, 2021 7:11:37 GMT
It is all finished, except I'm still trying to find a female outlet in decent condition that can fit into the round receptacle for the light. The one I have shows its age and I don't really want to solder a weak/brittle one inline with the new cord in case that fails and I have to put the entire machine out of service to repair it. And I also don't want a separate cord just for the light. And preparing myself psychologically to drag the beast from the garage up to the kitchen
|
|
miles
New Member
Posts: 25
|
Post by miles on Nov 10, 2021 22:33:55 GMT
The beast is in its resting place in the kitchen, and all went well! I managed to find a miniature female socket, or at least small enough to fit the 1" opening for the cabinet light connection. Made by GE as well, looks like something that might've been used for audio equipment and such. So the only downside is that the fridge has two plugs, one for the mechanical and one for the light. Plus side is if the lighting circuit causes trouble, I don't have to disable everything. Check it out! Side note: I don't know if it's the acoustics in the nook or something, but since I moved it indoors, the relay click is much, much louder and dramatic. Don't know if that's a concern or not? Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by cablehack on Nov 10, 2021 23:56:36 GMT
That GE socket is identical to what I was originally using with my CA-2 for the light. I found it listed in a 1938 Australian General Electric catalog as a 'cord connector' - although it's obviously of U.S. origin. It makes an ideal substitute when the original feed through socket is not available.
|
|
|
Post by ckfan on Nov 11, 2021 0:38:34 GMT
Sure looks nice. I love the way it turned out. As long as it is starting and the relay isn’t chattering, I wouldn’t worry about it. They make a very pronounced clunk when starting.
|
|
miles
New Member
Posts: 25
|
Post by miles on Nov 11, 2021 7:21:55 GMT
That GE socket is identical to what I was originally using with my CA-2 for the light. I found it listed in a 1938 Australian General Electric catalog as a 'cord connector' - although it's obviously of U.S. origin. It makes an ideal substitute when the original feed through socket is not available.
<button disabled="" class="c-attachment-insert--linked o-btn--sm">Attachment Deleted</button>
Yep! I'm glad I found this.
|
|
miles
New Member
Posts: 25
|
Post by miles on Nov 11, 2021 7:24:54 GMT
Sure looks nice. I love the way it turned out. As long as it is starting and the relay isn’t chattering, I wouldn’t worry about it. They make a very pronounced clunk when starting. There is a sudden sharp loud clunk followed by a second soft one, a short buzz from the compressor and then normal running in the span of less than a second. When it was being tested and ran for about a month in the garage it felt much quieter. However now I can hear it clunk-start in any room of the house.
|
|
miles
New Member
Posts: 25
|
Post by miles on Nov 11, 2021 7:27:38 GMT
Oh I forgot to ask: Does anyone happen to have a full text copy of the original label that is on the inside part of the door? It had typical instructions for storing, cleaning and defrosting. Mine is missing a few chunks and I'd like to try making a reproduction. Thank you!
|
|
|
Post by ckfan on Nov 11, 2021 13:48:30 GMT
Oh I forgot to ask: Does anyone happen to have a full text copy of the original label that is on the inside part of the door? It had typical instructions for storing, cleaning and defrosting. Mine is missing a few chunks and I'd like to try making a reproduction. Thank you! rsmediasigns.com/It’s already been made. A couple members helped put this together including me. Scroll down and you’ll see it. I typed it all out so that Rob from rs media could make it. Yes, it has typos. That’s GEs fault lol. I just typed what the original sticker had on it.
|
|
|
Post by redtangox on Nov 11, 2021 14:30:26 GMT
I’ve spent hours looking over old posts and trying to absorb information from all of the MT members and I still missed this reproduction information.
I love the forum and our members - I learn something new each day.
|
|
miles
New Member
Posts: 25
|
Post by miles on Nov 11, 2021 17:21:05 GMT
Oh I forgot to ask: Does anyone happen to have a full text copy of the original label that is on the inside part of the door? It had typical instructions for storing, cleaning and defrosting. Mine is missing a few chunks and I'd like to try making a reproduction. Thank you! rsmediasigns.com/It’s already been made. A couple members helped put this together including me. Scroll down and you’ll see it. I typed it all out so that Rob from rs media could make it. Yes, it has typos. That’s GEs fault lol. I just typed what the original sticker had on it. Unbelievable. This is SO cool! Thank you! If they need help to ID fonts, I'll be glad to chime in if they plan on making a second version. They used Microsoft's Arial for the headings, the one GE used was Kabel. And as far as the footing section goes, I cannot see it anymore on mine but doubt it was Arial and Helvetica, 1980's and 1950's fonts respectfully.
|
|
|
Post by elec573 on Nov 22, 2021 7:23:58 GMT
Just as an after thought did you look through the supply section. There were people there making reproduction parts . Also where to buy new material to make new breaker strips .
|
|