miles
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Post by miles on Jul 29, 2021 15:48:15 GMT
Okay, that video you posted helps a lot understanding the components! So that action you're doing at 3:40 time stamp, moving the bellow's arm and you have that click: This is exactly what I'm hearing moving the TEMP knob back and forth as it should, but only when the top switch in OFF. If I turn it back ON, I get two scenarios: A- ON > Below the stat's threshold > Compressor NOT running > Turn UP to COLDER > Arm clicks, and compressor turns on. B- ON > Above the stat's threshold > Compressor IS running > Turn DOWN to WARMER > Nothing clicks, compressors keeps running. After either of these scenarios, keeping the unit ON, turning the TEMP knob in either direction and nothing will happen until you repeat the procedure by turning it OFF first. Miles, I really think you could do some good by trying to re-calibrate it. I'll give it a shot Only thing is, mine is the dark arrow molded pointer type, I do no see a cap on the knobs hiding a screw, is the method to remove the knob any different? And also, it's been mentioned briefly on some other threads here, but I cannot for the life of me understand how the cover comes off, someone mentioned the little bakelite circle recessed on the side is hiding a screw that will open the cover, but I genuinely cannot make that budge or extract it, or spin it, there's simply no grip and considering it's bakelite, I don't want to break it.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 29, 2021 17:08:55 GMT
Miles, I really think you could do some good by trying to re-calibrate it. I'll give it a shot Only thing is, mine is the dark arrow molded pointer type, I do no see a cap on the knobs hiding a screw, is the method to remove the knob any different? And also, it's been mentioned briefly on some other threads here, but I cannot for the life of me understand how the cover comes off, someone mentioned the little bakelite circle recessed on the side is hiding a screw that will open the cover, but I genuinely cannot make that budge or extract it, or spin it, there's simply no grip and considering it's bakelite, I don't want to break it. Ah yeah - your brown Bakelite knob has a round plug in the center. You'll need to drill a tiny hole in it and pry it out. Then refill the hold with black silicone once the job is complete. the side is attached with one screw. It's under a similar but larger plug. Again, drill a small hole in the plug and pry it out, or back the screw out and allow it to push the plug out.
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miles
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Post by miles on Jul 30, 2021 5:56:59 GMT
I'll give it a shot Only thing is, mine is the dark arrow molded pointer type, I do no see a cap on the knobs hiding a screw, is the method to remove the knob any different? And also, it's been mentioned briefly on some other threads here, but I cannot for the life of me understand how the cover comes off, someone mentioned the little bakelite circle recessed on the side is hiding a screw that will open the cover, but I genuinely cannot make that budge or extract it, or spin it, there's simply no grip and considering it's bakelite, I don't want to break it. Ah yeah - your brown Bakelite knob has a round plug in the center. You'll need to drill a tiny hole in it and pry it out. Then refill the hold with black silicone once the job is complete. the side is attached with one screw. It's under a similar but larger plug. Again, drill a small hole in the plug and pry it out, or back the screw out and allow it to push the plug out. I've deleted my previous posts to clean things up. I managed to remove the side plate to inspect the insides, everything looks mint. Removed the temp knob screw cover (exacto knife without a scratch or hole), and started playing with the range as you suggested, I was off by about one full turn. I had doubts at the beginning of this as even after re-adjusting the knob, I couldn't get an ON - OFF action on the radius traveled by the control knob. Just has to wait for the temp inside to cool a tad more, and things started to stabilize and soon the thermostat was kicking in and out of service to maintain about 40ºF middle rack in a 90ºF garage. I've attached a graph of what the temperature is doing inside, you can see nicely when the fridge kicks on and off, and the overall drop I'm assuming is due to the ambient temp in the garage cooling. One question, since the unit is running less now to get 40ºF, is it normal that some parts of the cooling system are close to frozen and sweating? (Top of the evaporator's header, some lines in the rear have drips and right hand side frost doesn't go all the way up). Or those old fridges are supposed to refrigerate foods at a colder standard than 40ºF? Attachments:
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Post by ChrisJ on Jul 30, 2021 12:16:03 GMT
Depending on the year and model it varies a little but in general #5 should be 38F in a normal 70F room. I run mine set to #9 and it gives me around 34F most of the time but a newer CK like yours should be calibrated slightly colder. I'd expect 32 at #9 and roughly 1 degree difference between numbers. If it was mine I'd get a good thermometer frozen to the bottom of the evaporator, or held down by something heavy and use the charts in the service manual. They show the expected range for different settings.
For example, my sons Balltop shuts off at 5F and turns on at 18F. My 1933 CA is set for off at 6 on at 16 set to #9. That's more predictable than the cabinet temperature.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 30, 2021 13:10:27 GMT
Ah yeah - your brown Bakelite knob has a round plug in the center. You'll need to drill a tiny hole in it and pry it out. Then refill the hold with black silicone once the job is complete. the side is attached with one screw. It's under a similar but larger plug. Again, drill a small hole in the plug and pry it out, or back the screw out and allow it to push the plug out. I've deleted my previous posts to clean things up. I managed to remove the side plate to inspect the insides, everything looks mint. Removed the temp knob screw cover (exacto knife without a scratch or hole), and started playing with the range as you suggested, I was off by about one full turn. I had doubts at the beginning of this as even after re-adjusting the knob, I couldn't get an ON - OFF action on the radius traveled by the control knob. Just has to wait for the temp inside to cool a tad more, and things started to stabilize and soon the thermostat was kicking in and out of service to maintain about 40ºF middle rack in a 90ºF garage. I've attached a graph of what the temperature is doing inside, you can see nicely when the fridge kicks on and off, and the overall drop I'm assuming is due to the ambient temp in the garage cooling. One question, since the unit is running less now to get 40ºF, is it normal that some parts of the cooling system are close to frozen and sweating? (Top of the evaporator's header, some lines in the rear have drips and right hand side frost doesn't go all the way up). Or those old fridges are supposed to refrigerate foods at a colder standard than 40ºF? Thanks so much for the follow-up! That's very good that you're getting good functionality with the thermostat now. They sometimes get corroded internally and stop working correctly. In your case it must have just been a little wear on the moving parts. In general, the older fridges do run colder than newer ones do. I like the mid 30's personally; since I only keep drinks in mine.
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miles
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Post by miles on Jul 30, 2021 15:51:52 GMT
All right! Thanks so much you guys, seems everything is working fine on it now, just some minor tweaks to the knob to get it where it needs to be and it's golden! I have the top lifted upat an angle now, held with old 2x4 angled on the left front and rear corners. I read the other threads about opening, removing the staples and dropping the evaporator top plate screws except two closest to the evaporator, I hope I do not break anything, it looks very fragile. It's a little hard to see on the other photos the full shot on how it's lifted with the wood, but I think I can manage... hopefully
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miles
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Post by miles on Jul 30, 2021 16:18:47 GMT
One more thing, I couldn’t find much on the search, but how does one go about re-wiring the cabinet light? Might as well since I’m gonna have the top up, and the switch is flickering on its last leg.
I assume you take off the textolite liner on the door to access the switch, but what about the rear with the lamp socket and male plug? And do you fish the wires?
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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 30, 2021 17:41:17 GMT
One more thing, I couldn’t find much on the search, but how does one go about re-wiring the cabinet light? Might as well since I’m gonna have the top up, and the switch is flickering on its last leg. I assume you take off the textolite liner on the door to access the switch, but what about the rear with the lamp socket and male plug? And do you fish the wires? It's often "opening a can of worms" to take the Textolite off. I have found it better to remove the switch from its hole while the Textolite is installed. First remove the fiber insulation blocks from the area behind the switch. Lift the insulation blocks up from the top so that the area around the switch is open. Then take the retaining nut off the switch and push it back inside the cabinet. Once it's back inside the cabinet void space, lift it out by the wiring. The socket has a hidden screw in the center, underneath the center contact. You can take the center contact out first, and then access the mount screw. Do fish the new wiring through with the old. I don't think I go into a lot of detail in this video, but here is something which might be helpful: youtu.be/tsrE4hLzoBo
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miles
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Post by miles on Jul 31, 2021 6:25:36 GMT
That video is perfect, thank you! I will also get that Gorilla seal tape you mentioned, the original is showing its age! I read that a little too late and took the textolite off... Only a couple of screws were a pain to remove, and they stripped themselves on the way out. The wiring is original for the lighting circuit, and conductors still have decent flex on them. Considering I don't have anything fancy to keep the top lifted other than old 2x4s and those being in the way of accessing the area below the old tape, I'll leave that alone for now, the main issue was the momentary switch flickering the light from worn out contacts. (If you know an adequate replacement switch brand or part #, I'm all ears!) And speaking of, I did get the top up, and now have access to the compressor terminals. One thing mentioned in another thread that made it sound easy but truly wasn't, the cardboard surround. At least on my CK it is a single piece where spacer wood posts for the evaporator plate are stapled top and bottom, all around. It was mentioned to take all screws out but the two closest to the evaporator. If those screws are kept in through the posts and cardboard, I cannot see how one goes about removing that surround. And removing the corner 3 staples does nothing as well. So I grabbed the exacto knife, and sliced the two corners on the left side of the machine. Came off clean, and when it's time to put it back, they'll be held by the posts again and I'll wrap the cardboard with Gorilla sealing tape as well. I added some pictures, hopefully useful to you all Lastly, there is a really sticky goopy remnant of what seemed to be a yellow cream rubber gasket going around the inner lid, that would have rested on the outer edge of the cabinet top. Is that anything special or can I still obtain a replacement as well?
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miles
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Post by miles on Aug 27, 2021 17:50:22 GMT
Some progress update: • Totally stripped the cabinet and top, repainted with appliance paint. • Cleaned and polished parts. • Gaskets, tape, seals waiting. • Rewired the unit, three-conductor 16AWG rubber cord (Made for commercial vacuum cleaners, the outer black rubber jacket is "ribbed" or "grooved" designed to be stepped on, dragged and pulled so it should last a long time, plus it looks close to original, old fashioned without the ubiquitous cloth cord look). • Compressor leads soldered with 14AWG silicone rubber and fiberglass braided insulation, rated for 150ºC, (oven appliance wiring). Conductors sleeved with new "knob and tube" asphalt braided loom at the terminals. Attachments:
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Post by turbokinetic on Aug 27, 2021 19:20:30 GMT
Hey Miles; that's looking very good! You're right that the cloth covered cords are not correct for these machines, insofar as keeping an original look. In spite of that my personal preference is to use them for my repairs, because they are convenient for me to obtain locally. Furthermore, they have a "flat plug" where the cable comes out at a 90° angle and doesn't get sharply bent as it exits the plug. The factory supplied cord from GE was a round smooth rubber cord, with a flat plug for the same reasons. I prefer the factory made cord such as the cloth covered flat cord with a molded-on end; or a round cord with a molded-on end. Those look nicer, in my opinion, as opposed to a round rubber cord with a self-installed end on it. In my opinion, that always looks like a repaired cord or a hack job.
I would expect the vacuum cord to last forever in an application like this where it isn't bent or moved except on the rare occasion the cabinet is relocated. I would like to see the end result as well. Do you have a link to where you got yours?
Sorry some of our descriptions made the cardboard surround seem easier to remove than it actually is. I normally open it up at one corner, and just "hinge out" the back side of it. You do have to do some damage to the cardboard, which will be concealed by the top once it's back together but I feel as if this is an easier method than trying to get the surround all the way out.
As for the outer top gasket, Lowe's has a weatherstripping which can be used for this; or you can order one from McMaster-Carr. This one is easy to get locally, for me: https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-13-ft-Expand-N-Seal-Foam-Window-Weatherstrip/3434324
Sincerely, David
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miles
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Post by miles on Aug 28, 2021 5:15:39 GMT
Oh yeah, here's the cord I purchased for the refrigerator. Note: Conductors are 18AWG, not 16 as previously mentioned. My mistake, they feel thicker in person. I also often saw this ribbed design on vintage power tools and appliances, so I felt like it checked the looks box. Plenty of length also to hook up the relay box to the compressor and to the front control box. That cord is pretty well made, outer jacket and individual conductors insulation is tough, but still has nice flex to it. However, it comes with a modern factory molded plug. So yes, that's going to get cut and replaced with a round design. They are not available to my knowledge with a 90º down exit angle for the cord, so I'll settle for a standard plug. I found a few new old stock plugs (not the faux-tique Etsy nonsense) with ground that definitely look like they would belong with the fridge. And speaking of ground, I am definitely adding one. My guess would be to ring-terminal the ground wire between the compressor shell and the threaded brass post that holds the relay box with that one screw. Yay, Nay? Lastly, to your knowledge do you know of a modern replacement part for the light push button switch? I found some, OFF by default and ON when pressed, but the thread is too large to fit through the Textolite hole and I'm not bringing a drill bit close to the breaker strip!
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Post by turbokinetic on Aug 28, 2021 17:33:05 GMT
Oh yeah, here's the cord I purchased for the refrigerator. Note: Conductors are 18AWG, not 16 as previously mentioned. My mistake, they feel thicker in person. I also often saw this ribbed design on vintage power tools and appliances, so I felt like it checked the looks box. Plenty of length also to hook up the relay box to the compressor and to the front control box. That cord is pretty well made, outer jacket and individual conductors insulation is tough, but still has nice flex to it. However, it comes with a modern factory molded plug. So yes, that's going to get cut and replaced with a round design. They are not available to my knowledge with a 90º down exit angle for the cord, so I'll settle for a standard plug. I found a few new old stock plugs (not the faux-tique Etsy nonsense) with ground that definitely look like they would belong with the fridge. And speaking of ground, I am definitely adding one. My guess would be to ring-terminal the ground wire between the compressor shell and the threaded brass post that holds the relay box with that one screw. Yay, Nay? Lastly, to your knowledge do you know of a modern replacement part for the light push button switch? I found some, OFF by default and ON when pressed, but the thread is too large to fit through the Textolite hole and I'm not bringing a drill bit close to the breaker strip! I would expect that cord is perfect for this application. I normally rewire the internal wiring with 18AWG wiring. That is good for a continuous 9 amps, while the compressor uses less than 3 amps. Plenty of safety factor. As for the light switch, I have had success with disassembling them and refurbishing them. The swtich can be removed from the top, by taking the insulation blocks out between the cabinet liner and shell; then pushing the switch back through the hole and lifting it up by the wiring. I have done a video about that somewhere. Oh! Here it is: https://youtu.be/tsrE4hLzoBo Sincerely, David
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miles
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Post by miles on Sept 1, 2021 20:34:10 GMT
Well, the fridge is all back together and running great.
However, the hinge side of the door makes perfect contact compression with the gasket, but on the other side, a gap develops that gets wider as you progress toward the handle. Have you run into something like this? It's introducing moisture in and the top lip of the cabinet has a lot of drips. Is there a way to re-arrange the door so it makes contact equally all around? I cannot push the door further in as it is properly engaged with the latch.
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Post by joneske on Sept 1, 2021 21:16:44 GMT
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