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Post by Travis on Feb 5, 2021 5:27:15 GMT
Andrew,
A CK is a welded unit. As far as I know, no one has rebuilt one. They’re relatively plentiful and seldom fail. I’d watch for another CK2 unit.
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Post by andrewo on Feb 5, 2021 5:39:53 GMT
Andrew, A CK is a welded unit. As far as I know, no one has rebuilt one. They’re relatively plentiful and seldom fail. I’d watch for another CK2 unit. Thanks for the tip, I'll watch for one, but I think I am going to try anyways. If it's toast anyways its worth a try.
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Post by ChrisJ on Feb 5, 2021 12:55:40 GMT
Andrew, A CK is a welded unit. As far as I know, no one has rebuilt one. They’re relatively plentiful and seldom fail. I’d watch for another CK2 unit. Thanks for the tip, I'll watch for one, but I think I am going to try anyways. If it's toast anyways its worth a try. One thing to keep in mind, when these things go back together they need to be absolutely immaculate. Any dust, tiny metal shavings etc will cause issues. Rewiring a monitor top and installing an RO81 relay is probably a skill level 3 or so but rewinding a motor and welding the system back together would be a 10 out of 10 for difficulty.
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Post by turbokinetic on Feb 5, 2021 14:48:57 GMT
Andrew, A CK is a welded unit. As far as I know, no one has rebuilt one. They’re relatively plentiful and seldom fail. I’d watch for another CK2 unit. Thanks for the tip, I'll watch for one, but I think I am going to try anyways. If it's toast anyways its worth a try. It would be most economical for you to locate another complete cooling unit, but if you decide to open that one up, be warned it is an SO2 unit and there will be a massive amount of irritant gas inside it. Search for SO2 disposal and read carefully. You will have to be outdoors away from buildings to do this job. The compressor is welded to the top cabinet cover. You'll end up damaging the paint no matter what; if you remove the compressor from the cabinet top. If you're going to have to paint anyway, in my opinion, it would be more feasible to just get a poor condition working unit and repaint that one. If you do decide to tear down the top, it's not terribly hard. First, remove the refrigerant in a safe manner. Remove the thermostat control, and its sensing tube. Then, lay the cooling unit on its side. Remove all screws around evaporator mounting plate. Remove cardboard surround from the insulation space. Remove the insulation. You will see refrigerant lines between the compressor and evaporator. Cut the small line from the float to the evaporator, about 1" from the float valve. Cut the bypass line close to the float chamber. Cut the return line in the insulation space above the evaporator mounting plate. Now the entire evaporator can be set aside. By cutting the lines as described, you will preserve the evaporator in a reusable state. Evaporators do fail and someone else could use yours if you don't rebuild the unit and end up selling parts. The compressor can be set upside down at this point on wood supports. You will be able to see the line from the compressor to the condenser. Cut the hot gas line in an area accessible for reconnection. Then if the return line is actually soldered to the float chamber, remove this as well. At this time, the only thing left is to cut the spot welds holding the compressor to the deck. A burr tool can be used. With the deck removed, the compressor housing seam will be visible and accessible. The base of the compressor is turned down and fits inside the dome. Cut immediately below the weld (below, relative to your perspective with the unit upside down. In other words, cut the housing part which is the dome of the compressor, don't cut the base part.). Cut through the outer layer only until you have the base free from the compressor dome. At this point, the compressor base can be lifted out. Be careful not to break the wires in the event that the compressor is not securely attached to the base. When taking the compressor apart; there will likely be damage to the plastic oil dam inside the motor. This is a ring used to keep cooling oil trapped around the stator winding, and not flowing between the stator and rotor. This is probably deformed due to the overheating, and has the motor bound up. Another possible failure mode would be if the motor ran slowly or in a reverse direction for an extended time. That could cause the oil pump not to function, and the bearings could be seized. Will be interesting to see. Share pictures with us! Sincerely, David
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Post by andrewo on Feb 6, 2021 0:54:34 GMT
Thanks for the tip, I'll watch for one, but I think I am going to try anyways. If it's toast anyways its worth a try. It would be most economical for you to locate another complete cooling unit, but if you decide to open that one up, be warned it is an SO2 unit and there will be a massive amount of irritant gas inside it. Search for SO2 disposal and read carefully. You will have to be outdoors away from buildings to do this job. The compressor is welded to the top cabinet cover. You'll end up damaging the paint no matter what; if you remove the compressor from the cabinet top. If you're going to have to paint anyway, in my opinion, it would be more feasible to just get a poor condition working unit and repaint that one. If you do decide to tear down the top, it's not terribly hard. First, remove the refrigerant in a safe manner. Remove the thermostat control, and its sensing tube. Then, lay the cooling unit on its side. Remove all screws around evaporator mounting plate. Remove cardboard surround from the insulation space. Remove the insulation. You will see refrigerant lines between the compressor and evaporator. Cut the small line from the float to the evaporator, about 1" from the float valve. Cut the bypass line close to the float chamber. Cut the return line in the insulation space above the evaporator mounting plate. Now the entire evaporator can be set aside. By cutting the lines as described, you will preserve the evaporator in a reusable state. Evaporators do fail and someone else could use yours if you don't rebuild the unit and end up selling parts. The compressor can be set upside down at this point on wood supports. You will be able to see the line from the compressor to the condenser. Cut the hot gas line in an area accessible for reconnection. Then if the return line is actually soldered to the float chamber, remove this as well. At this time, the only thing left is to cut the spot welds holding the compressor to the deck. A burr tool can be used. With the deck removed, the compressor housing seam will be visible and accessible. The base of the compressor is turned down and fits inside the dome. Cut immediately below the weld (below, relative to your perspective with the unit upside down. In other words, cut the housing part which is the dome of the compressor, don't cut the base part.). Cut through the outer layer only until you have the base free from the compressor dome. At this point, the compressor base can be lifted out. Be careful not to break the wires in the event that the compressor is not securely attached to the base. When taking the compressor apart; there will likely be damage to the plastic oil dam inside the motor. This is a ring used to keep cooling oil trapped around the stator winding, and not flowing between the stator and rotor. This is probably deformed due to the overheating, and has the motor bound up. Another possible failure mode would be if the motor ran slowly or in a reverse direction for an extended time. That could cause the oil pump not to function, and the bearings could be seized. Will be interesting to see. Share pictures with us! Sincerely, David Thank you so much for all of your help! I will make sure to make a new thread when I start the work. I will see what I can do!
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Post by elec573 on Feb 7, 2021 2:34:53 GMT
I understand wanting to fix your Ck we do become attached to them . But as a back up I’d keep looking for a working top , I’ve seen your model just recently in Pittsburgh pa posted on Craigslist. But shipping to CA would be expensive, there out there if you’re welling to keep looking.
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Post by andrewo on Feb 8, 2021 0:26:33 GMT
I understand wanting to fix your Ck we do become attached to them . But as a back up I’d keep looking for a working top , I’ve seen your model just recently in Pittsburgh pa posted on Craigslist. But shipping to CA would be expensive, there out there if you’re welling to keep looking. Yes, I will make sure to keep looking. I have been checking around my area for any CK units too. I will try both!
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