|
Post by Travis on Jan 31, 2021 4:52:29 GMT
Turn the control to the on position and check the other two pairs. Leave the unit unplugged.
|
|
|
Post by andrewo on Jan 31, 2021 5:09:20 GMT
Turn the control to the on position and check the other two pairs. Leave the unit unplugged. Should I do that with the wires re-attached?
|
|
|
Post by Travis on Jan 31, 2021 5:24:26 GMT
The two wires should be attached at the control in front and then measure those two pairs.
|
|
|
Post by andrewo on Jan 31, 2021 5:43:45 GMT
The two wires should be attached at the control in front and then measure those two pairs. I attached those two wired and when the switch was at the on position, I got no reading of resistance. I am very sorry if I am doing this wrong, I am new to this.
|
|
|
Post by andrewo on Jan 31, 2021 5:56:59 GMT
The two wires should be attached at the control in front and then measure those two pairs. View AttachmentI attached those two wired and when the switch was at the on position, I got no reading of resistance. I am very sorry if I am doing this wrong, I am new to this. I also tried testing the 3 wires coming out of the unit reattached with the switch on, which got me 22 ohms between white and red, 18 ohms between black and white, and 4 ohms between red and black
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Jan 31, 2021 13:51:33 GMT
View AttachmentI attached those two wired and when the switch was at the on position, I got no reading of resistance. I am very sorry if I am doing this wrong, I am new to this. I also tried testing the 3 wires coming out of the unit reattached with the switch on, which got me 22 ohms between white and red, 18 ohms between black and white, and 4 ohms between red and black I'm sorry it's confusing; and no need to apologize. I should have mentioned clearly that the control at the front of the cabinet must be in the on position, for the black wire to have a connection. The final set of measurements; 22, 18, and 4Ω sound very reasonable for the motor to be good. What sort of ground resistance did you observe? At this time, you probably need to open up the relay and see if there is anything left of the contact points. They may have worn completely away, preventing a start.
|
|
|
Post by andrewo on Jan 31, 2021 19:16:54 GMT
I also tried testing the 3 wires coming out of the unit reattached with the switch on, which got me 22 ohms between white and red, 18 ohms between black and white, and 4 ohms between red and black I'm sorry it's confusing; and no need to apologize. I should have mentioned clearly that the control at the front of the cabinet must be in the on position, for the black wire to have a connection. The final set of measurements; 22, 18, and 4Ω sound very reasonable for the motor to be good. What sort of ground resistance did you observe? At this time, you probably need to open up the relay and see if there is anything left of the contact points. They may have worn completely away, preventing a start. When I measured the black wire to a piece of bare metal on the unit, I got no reading (is that how its done?) I took off the front cover of the relay, and here is what I found. I am not sure what to be looking for, but that small black-ish crossbeam rod is loose when I touched it.
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Feb 1, 2021 0:16:13 GMT
I'm sorry it's confusing; and no need to apologize. I should have mentioned clearly that the control at the front of the cabinet must be in the on position, for the black wire to have a connection. The final set of measurements; 22, 18, and 4Ω sound very reasonable for the motor to be good. What sort of ground resistance did you observe? At this time, you probably need to open up the relay and see if there is anything left of the contact points. They may have worn completely away, preventing a start. When I measured the black wire to a piece of bare metal on the unit, I got no reading (is that how its done?) I took off the front cover of the relay, and here is what I found. I am not sure what to be looking for, but that small black-ish crossbeam rod is loose when I touched it. View AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentThat's good that there wasn't resistance to ground. There is hope, I would say. The black cross-beam rod is just a stop to limit how far back the armature can go when the relay is not activated. The part to be concerned about is the contact points and the circuit through the contact points. There may be something strange going on with one of them. The two parts circled in the above picture are the points. See that they are able to touch when the armature is in line with the magnet poles. Imagine the green lines on the relay picture were on the real relay. Push the armature down until those lines are "all lined up." This represents where the magnetic field will pull the armature to when it's staring up. If the contacts aren't looking like they make a solid connection at that point, then you may need to make some adjustments; or get a new relay. There looks to be an abnormal sharp peak buildup on the stationary contact. Hope this helps! Sincerely, David
|
|
|
Post by andrewo on Feb 1, 2021 1:51:58 GMT
When I measured the black wire to a piece of bare metal on the unit, I got no reading (is that how its done?) I took off the front cover of the relay, and here is what I found. I am not sure what to be looking for, but that small black-ish crossbeam rod is loose when I touched it. View AttachmentView AttachmentView AttachmentThat's good that there wasn't resistance to ground. There is hope, I would say. The black cross-beam rod is just a stop to limit how far back the armature can go when the relay is not activated. The part to be concerned about is the contact points and the circuit through the contact points. There may be something strange going on with one of them. View AttachmentThe two parts circled in the above picture are the points. See that they are able to touch when the armature is in line with the magnet poles. Imagine the green lines on the relay picture were on the real relay. Push the armature down until those lines are "all lined up." This represents where the magnetic field will pull the armature to when it's staring up. If the contacts aren't looking like they make a solid connection at that point, then you may need to make some adjustments; or get a new relay. There looks to be an abnormal sharp peak buildup on the stationary contact. Hope this helps! Sincerely, David Thank you so much! That connection looks pretty bad so I will see what I can do to either clean it or adjust it. Ill let you guys know what happens! Thanks again, Andrew
|
|
|
Post by andrewo on Feb 2, 2021 1:19:34 GMT
Hello again! So I was able to make that connection better by adding solder to the top piece that moves down (it had an inner cup I presume from wear). It doesn't make that noise anymore, but The motor still doesn't seem to be kicking on. Here's a video of how it sounds. IMG-0091.MOV (19.14 MB)
|
|
|
Post by elec573 on Feb 3, 2021 2:36:17 GMT
I’d recommend replacing all the wiring it’s old and very crumbly . The wiring coming from the motor well be the hardest to get to . Also did you download the dr manual it’s free on the forum.
I guess I’m confused what are your resistance reading straight from the motor . Unhooked from the relay , they need to be clear from the relay so you don’t get a back feed. And also each motor lead to ground (some where on the motor case that’s bare) You should have a very high resistance reading to ground if you don’t it’s shorted out .
|
|
|
Post by Travis on Feb 3, 2021 4:22:56 GMT
Herb,
This is a CK unit. Ideally, you'd measure no resistance from the motor to the frame.
|
|
|
Post by andrewo on Feb 3, 2021 5:23:41 GMT
I’d recommend replacing all the wiring it’s old and very crumbly . The wiring coming from the motor well be the hardest to get to . Also did you download the dr manual it’s free on the forum. I guess I’m confused what are your resistance reading straight from the motor . Unhooked from the relay , they need to be clear from the relay so you don’t get a back feed. And also each motor lead to ground (some where on the motor case that’s bare) You should have a very high resistance reading to ground if you don’t it’s shorted out . I just measured them with the switch on and the wires away from the relay, and I got the same numbers. I got nothing when checking each of the wires to ground. I have the manuel for CKs downloaded, though I have only skimmed through it. Do you think the wiring is the main issue? Thanks Andrew
|
|
|
Post by andrewo on Feb 3, 2021 20:42:35 GMT
I’d recommend replacing all the wiring it’s old and very crumbly . The wiring coming from the motor well be the hardest to get to . Also did you download the dr manual it’s free on the forum. I guess I’m confused what are your resistance reading straight from the motor . Unhooked from the relay , they need to be clear from the relay so you don’t get a back feed. And also each motor lead to ground (some where on the motor case that’s bare) You should have a very high resistance reading to ground if you don’t it’s shorted out . I just measured them with the switch on and the wires away from the relay, and I got the same numbers. I got nothing when checking each of the wires to ground. I have the manuel for CKs downloaded, though I have only skimmed through it. Do you think the wiring is the main issue? Thanks Andrew also, should I try the trick of giving the unit 220 volts for a second to un-stall the motor? I saw that in the manual and some other posts.
|
|
|
Post by ckfan on Feb 3, 2021 22:43:29 GMT
Yes, you can give it 220 but for only very brief moments. Follow the instructions in the manual and it’s best to stay on the safe side. Remember, the motor is 86 years old.
|
|