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Post by elec573 on Oct 16, 2018 3:31:08 GMT
Paul wish you luck getting it. Would like to see it saved and brought back to life. Keep us informed it’s in interesting project .
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Post by csulaguy on Oct 16, 2018 16:02:40 GMT
I will do indeed. I still have yet to have someone help me on the museum DR1 with the restriction. I restored that cabinet, as the exterior was in better shape, with the Mendota, IL top that I'm running.
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Post by csulaguy on Oct 23, 2018 5:33:58 GMT
Paul wish you luck getting it. Would like to see it saved and brought back to life. Keep us informed it’s in interesting project . So I decided to check facebook marketplace before heading up. Found someone selling one of those art deco CK fridges for $500. Wasn't all that interested at first, but saw a DR3 on the ground. He said $100 for each. Because the DR3 wasn't in the best of shape, we negotiated down to $50 for that. It has 2 pig type evaps, but I'm concerned with some kind of light salt coating on the back of the evap. Not sure if that could be some of the brine solution? Haven't yet powered it up, nor checked resistance on the oil conditioner. As for the DR1 - I got it for $20. The PO had it laying upside down. It's now right side up. Any ideas how long I before I can try to fire it up and see if it starts to cool? I was told that works. No clue on the DR3, and the CK does seem to cool, though I only tried it briefly,
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Post by elec573 on Oct 23, 2018 5:55:51 GMT
Well congratulations on the dr ! As far as the heater we’ll you had enough experience with CAs . Pig evaporators are a different experience . I’ll let the more experienced members chime in .
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Post by birkie on Oct 23, 2018 10:59:15 GMT
Because the DR3 wasn't in the best of shape, we negotiated down to $50 for that. It has 2 pig type evaps, but I'm concerned with some kind of light salt coating on the back of the evap. Not sure if that could be some of the brine solution? Fantastic! That was perfect negotiation. Some evaps ,especially if it was rebuilt, used a kind of salt (potassium carbonate maybe? I don't remember). But it could be anything. Eager to see if this has life in it. How did you physically end up moving it? I assume you took the top off? With a an engine hoist? Mine came upside down in a wheelbarrow. Just let it sit with the heater on until you hear no more bubbling. All the refrigerant makes it to the dome if it is upside down for a while. The heater will get rid of it all, given enough time, unless the float is blocked. Mine took about two days before it was quiet.
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Post by csulaguy on Oct 24, 2018 2:27:39 GMT
Paul, I doubt that an engine hoist has the height needed to lift a DR3. Ray has an engine hoist that may have come from HF and that's an issue. My homemade lift that was built for an 8 ceiling is too short. I think the overall height is 66". The only way I have seen them moved in one piece is with a pallet jack or similar. All of the 2 and 3 series machines have the same size deck. If you have a frame for a CA2 to sit on, I'd take it for use with the DR3. I already know for a fact that I can't lift it with the engine hoist. But that's fine, because I'm only looking to get it on and off the trailer at this point. A 2-ton harbor freight hoist handled our DRB3 just fine with some breathing room, but a 1-ton is way too short. The seller of our DR3 had a small forklift, which we used to lift the top off the cabinet (and into its crate), and lift the cabinet into the truck. The unit itself is 280 lbs, and the cabinet is probably somewhere in the 400-500 range. This cabinet is pretty damn heavy as well. It's definitely wider than your normal 7 cu ft cabinet. Someone painted over the badges on my DR3, but you can definitely make out the DR3 portion ever so slightly. Apparently, the on and off levers were broken (the bakelite itself). Makes me wonder if I could hook up a Supco for testing purposes when I get it home, after replacing the heater. Makes me glad I got all those heaters now! Makes sense. It wasn't at all convenient for me to pick up. I'd have to make another trip, if she's willing to keep it there another month or two (or three). On the plus, I got my DR1 for $20 afterall, and $50 for the DR3. As mentioned above, I'd like to see if I can use a Supco relay just to see if it works or not. The DR1 fires up, though the controls were kind of sticky at first. The evap gets cool, not frosty, but I didn't have a heater in it and wanted to make sure it wasn't seized, so that's a good thing. The CK I got for $100 is a CK-26, just like this one. Has all the shelves and it looked like chiller trays wrapped in bubble wrap. www.ebay.com/itm/1937-GE-General-electric-Monitor-Top-Refrigerator-Antique-Vintage-/302874518607?nordt=true&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m43663.l44720
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Post by Travis on Oct 24, 2018 5:27:02 GMT
Paul,
The DR3’s use both the start and run winding when they run. Leave the Supco for another unit. Measure the motor and check each lead to ground. It would use a 18 watt heater. Let the heater operate for a couple days and then test it.
If it does run, let it run awhile. Don’t short cycle it or it might fail.
Your DR1 might be fine. Sometimes it takes awhile to get them to circulate.
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Post by turbokinetic on Oct 24, 2018 14:25:31 GMT
Paul, The DR3’s use both the start and run winding when they run. Leave the Supco for another unit. Measure the motor and check each lead to ground. It would use a 18 watt heater. Let the heater operate for a couple days and then test it. If it does run, let it run awhile. Don’t short cycle it or it might fail. Your DR1 might be fine. Sometimes it takes awhile to get them to circulate.
Hi Travis, I remember there's a diagram showing how the capacitor box and control work on this unit. That would be a good thing to study and be sure all those parts are working correctly before running it unattended for a long time.
If I remember, it uses a run-capacitor that works all the time; as well as a startup relay. Sometimes those run caps go bad from sitting and can short out and become hazardous.
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Post by csulaguy on Oct 24, 2018 16:35:27 GMT
Aha, that's what that giant box is behind the compressor? I was wondering what it was.
So I'm going to presume that the capacitor is replaceable with something more modern, since older capacitors are seldom reliable?
Travis: I'm in no hurry to test out the DR3, so I'll put in a heater when I get home, after using the engine hoist to get it off the trailer. I wish I had an industrial scale, so I could weigh it for sheer curiosity!
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Post by birkie on Oct 24, 2018 16:44:56 GMT
Aha, that's what that giant box is behind the compressor? I was wondering what it was. So I'm going to presume that the capacitor is replaceable with something more modern, since older capacitors are seldom reliable? It's a small value (but physically large) capacitor, and a transformer. It's not an electrolytic cap, so that's good. The start contacts in the control switch between taps of the transformer. The end result is a large phase shift for starting, and a smaller phase shift for running. That being said, the cap and the transformer are embedded in a tar-like substance. The motor will start and run without the capacitor for testing (just don't run it for long that way); you can bypass the cap/transformer block as part of a diagnostic procedure if it has trouble starting to rule in or out problems with the capacitor. Also, it's pretty easy to reverse the direction of the motor by switching around some of the wires in the control. I had to do that to my DRB3, as it was siezed when I got it.
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Post by Travis on Oct 24, 2018 16:45:57 GMT
Yes David, if the cap is bad it won’t start period.
If I had it, I’d check the motor and check for grounding. If good, I’d clean the control contacts and replace the heater, wait two days with heater energized and then try it. If it starts, I’d let it run for at least an hour.
If it doesn’t cool in an hour, I’d shut it off. If it does, I’d box in the evaporators and see if it satisfies the control.
If you’re concerned with the block, you can replace it with two capacitors like Cablehack suggested years ago.
My point is, be methodical and don’t short cycle it. Commit to it and you might get lucky.
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Post by csulaguy on Nov 3, 2018 21:00:37 GMT
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Post by Travis on Nov 4, 2018 2:42:25 GMT
$200 is fair. Anything over 250 is too much in my opinion.
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Post by turbokinetic on Nov 4, 2018 3:58:07 GMT
Paul, I hate to be a potty mouth but I got to rain on the parade a little. They say it "cools when turned on but turns its self off after a wile." That would be an overload trip. In my opinion, a DR with an overload tripping issue is likely in need of a major overhaul including a motor rewind.
Again I don't want to be a party-pooper but want to point out that detail so you can let it factor in on your decision making.
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Post by elec573 on Nov 4, 2018 3:59:20 GMT
It’s a left hand door more rear ,chrome looks good, looks like it’s been repainted. No pictures of inside. Well you’re seen enough of these to know what you’re looking for good luck let us know how it goes. Have one like it with shorted motor so be careful.
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