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Post by ckfan on Feb 28, 2018 23:41:36 GMT
YES!!! I’m so happy that this part might become available. I love tall controls but they weren’t very sturdy.
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Post by joneske on Feb 28, 2018 23:54:50 GMT
YES!!! I’m so happy that this part might become available. I love tall controls but they weren’t very sturdy. I'm pretty excited about it. He says the material he plans on using would will be rigid, but could withstand being nearly folded in half.
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Post by coldspaces on Mar 1, 2018 3:33:11 GMT
I concur, reproduction of the so often broken tall control body is something we have only dreamed of. This is exiting!!!
Thanks for your time and efforts!
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Post by birkie on Mar 3, 2018 4:15:08 GMT
As usual, Travis has been a huge help with this. He pointed out that the part the holds the bellows is mounted with screws and so there was no need to freeze it. Also, he told me all Type C controls share the same hole pattern, so if we are succussful, this should work for other DRs with this control. Fantastic! I know I could use one for my DR3 project...
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Post by joneske on Apr 2, 2018 21:19:21 GMT
A little update on this DRA2: I spent some time working on the cabinet and was pleased to find it was in pretty good shape. There are a few little nicks and scratches, which I have decided to consider as adding character. Overall, the porcelain was in great shape and appears to have never been attached with comet or scotch brite. The monel trim cleaned up real nice. The handle was worn down to the brass, so I polished that and clear coated it. I also lightly sanded all the woodwork, applied polyurethane, and replaced the door seal. The bottom of the liner was the only thing that would not clean up. I tried a trick we used to use to get rust stains off floors. I covered the bottom with a thick layer of paper towels and saturated them with chlorine bleach. I then covered this with thick plastic to prevent it from evaporating and let it set over night. In the morning, I removed the slurry from the cabinet and the stains were gone and ready for a light polishing. drive.google.com/open?id=1F1tirOQVjto2uy_7v0-9AnKiIsToEl_rI am now moving on to the top. I have a heater on order and am waiting for Zach to make me a control back so I can put it back together and see how well it will run.
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Post by solarmike on Apr 3, 2018 1:08:50 GMT
A little update on this DRA2: Overall, the porcelain was in great shape and appears to have never been attached with comet or scotch brite. LOL No doubt... It doesn't look like it was cleaned at all.... But you did a really nice job doing what hadden't been done...
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Post by elec573 on Apr 3, 2018 2:16:12 GMT
Nice job on the cabinet. I’ll have to remember that trick with the chlorine bleach. I have hard water where I live even with a water softener over time I get rust stains . Have had good luck with iron out . Leaving it set over night and the rust is gone the next day .
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Post by joneske on Apr 3, 2018 21:30:16 GMT
I showed Rob a picture of the Seeger decal that was on Travis' 1927 DR3. He has reproduced the image and added it to his website. It is slightly diferent than the one he made for my DR2 cabinet, so I plan to get one of these for this fridge and have one of each. He asked me to let everyone know he can reproduce virtually any decal anybody needs. Here is the link to his website. rsmediasigns.com/
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Post by elec573 on Apr 4, 2018 1:02:32 GMT
Just looked on his site via your link . Did the ca decal not get reproduced or is it in the works?
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Post by joneske on Apr 4, 2018 15:38:28 GMT
Just looked on his site via your link . Did the ca decal not get reproduced or is it in the works? I think Ray was working on that.
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1928 DRA2
Apr 4, 2018 23:19:05 GMT
via mobile
Post by ckfan on Apr 4, 2018 23:19:05 GMT
Just looked on his site via your link . Did the ca decal not get reproduced or is it in the works? I’ve been slacking off on it. 11 hour days on roofs is not conducive to me getting stuff done at home.
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Post by joneske on May 2, 2018 23:36:38 GMT
A little update on the DRA2. I wanted to get a few things done before I even thought about running it, as I wanted to give it the best chance for success. These included replacing the bottom and door seals, replacing the broken control back, and of course, installing a new heater. In the process I discovered some serious issues, and did my best to address them. Along the way I once again relied heavily on Travis. I made some near fatal mistakes, and won’t know if I have addressed the issues, and have overcome my blunders until I try running it this weekend. Best case scenario, I will be able to get it running despite these challenges, worst case maybe someone else can learn from my folly. The first issue I ran into was when I had the top off the cabinet and was it and I discovered extensive corrosion on the line leading to the evaporator. I am amazed it hadn’t leaked to this point, it obviously wasn’t going to hold much longer. I was able to gently clean off nearly all the rust, apply some rust treatment, build up the area with epoxy putty, and paint the repair. Only time will tell how well this holds. drive.google.com/open?id=1N1HOrnhqwc9aDZvfpP9xWDmrp2DSZide
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Post by joneske on May 2, 2018 23:38:25 GMT
Next, my lack of patience got the best of me when I removed the plate holding the sensing tube to pull the control. I broke the bolt and somehow managed to also break off a screw extractor. Fortunately, I was able to drill it out with a carbide bit without causing too much damage then retap the threads and use a larger bolt. drive.google.com/open?id=1oSJXl9zh_5mk1pJE9Q9_aLE1kKfSNos2
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Post by joneske on May 2, 2018 23:39:37 GMT
My next boneheaded move came when I removed the heater. For some reason it was stuck and would not slide out easily. I cut the wires just behind the black sleeves so I could to get at it with a screwdriver and chip it out. I then taped a water bottle to my vacuum hose as a crevice tool and was able to suck out the pieces. Unfortunately, I had cut the wire too short to be able to use wire nuts or butt connectors to attach a new heater. Luckily, I had just enough to get solder on it and secure with heat shrink. Another centimeter or two, and I don’t know what I would have done. I then cut down a black rubber stopper to replace the original degraded one. drive.google.com/open?id=1C4DZfFT2OYTuFyuQB-8JiQdJ9ezJuV1u
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Post by ckfan on May 2, 2018 23:55:15 GMT
Yep, that all sounds about right! I love what you did with your rusty crusty evaporator suction line. Fingers crossed that it works for you!
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