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Post by joneske on Feb 20, 2018 17:36:49 GMT
I picked up this DRA2 over the weekend. Ever since my failed attempt with a DR2, I’ve always wanted to try my hand with a working DR. The seller had it running and cooling when I looked at it, but the heater is bad, and it needs a door seal. I don’t plan on running it until those are both corrected, and plan on taking care of some cosmetic issues firstas well. It sits on a Seeger cabinet and the porcelain is in great shape except for some damage around the latch. A couple of trim pieces are damaged, and I am looking into either having them straightened or new ones made. My plan is to make it functional and keep it as original as possible.
drive.google.com/open?id=1WhWHKI10v-ywkXhFCbjAzFQxV64nazid
The top is in pretty good shape except for one damaged area. I am not sure how I am going to address that yet.
drive.google.com/open?id=1qEHAEReIA7k39TiLjPZD_veNbPjRKC-d
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Post by joneske on Feb 20, 2018 17:38:02 GMT
It has a broken control back which I want to repair. I am looking into having Zach print a replacement but will epoxy repair the original at the very least. I need to know the best way to properly remove the bellows and electronics first. I believe I have read to freeze the bellows with dry ice then clamp it securely once it is out. Any advice from anyone who has done that would be appreciated.
drive.google.com/open?id=1cFnu6QrmY-Lgsj12SduQmmOwmodbWaj4
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Post by joneske on Feb 20, 2018 17:39:25 GMT
The door has sagged for years causing the latch to wear down the strike. I plan on correcting that by replacing the hinge screws with longer oval headed slotted screws form McMasters. Somebody did some interesting work on the latch mount using hollow wall anchors and modern wood screws. Not only did the porcelain get damaged, they actually punched the anchors through the nice wood trim on the door interior. My plan here is to remove the anchors and replace them with dowels, them replace the modern wood screws, with the oval headed slotted type.
drive.google.com/open?id=1W_Cb3EGjLdtg2XQ7dvCrB3r9PS6eYxx6
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Post by Travis on Feb 21, 2018 1:46:26 GMT
Both of my DRA doors sag. The hinges have worn and the door has dropped. It's really amazing how many folks have modified these things as they aged and had no value. That's why I get so excited when I see a nice complete unit. Otherwise, you have to buy two of the same model to complete one.
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Post by birkie on Feb 21, 2018 1:48:51 GMT
Excellent, another DRA2 shows up! Glad to hear it refrigerates, despite needing a bit of work on the cabinet and control If you do end up getting the control backbone fixed (use the "tough" resin), I'm sure a number of folks would find it useful. I have a DR3 with a break in the same spot - I'd need to compare the two, but it would be especially convenient if all 120V type C tall controls happened to share the same basic backbone (albeit tapped in different places to accommodate different wiring) As far as the porcelain - are you thinking of patching it (with something like light-cured acrylic)? It *think* it looks decent otherwise (but it is hard to tell what is dirt vs damage) It's interesting to me that you have a "refrigeration machine" badge. Mine has a higher serial number, yet has "icing unit". Maybe one of them was a replacement over the years, or they found some old "icing unit" badges when sweeping the floors and decided to put them to good use when they made mine
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Post by solarmike on Feb 21, 2018 2:15:08 GMT
Glad to see another one being brought back.. The more they are the less rare they are... Awesome...
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Post by joneske on Feb 21, 2018 13:56:08 GMT
Excellent, another DRA2 shows up! Glad to hear it refrigerates, despite needing a bit of work on the cabinet and control If you do end up getting the control backbone fixed (use the "tough" resin), I'm sure a number of folks would find it useful. I have a DR3 with a break in the same spot - I'd need to compare the two, but it would be especially convenient if all 120V type C tall controls happened to share the same basic backbone (albeit tapped in different places to accommodate different wiring) As far as the porcelain - are you thinking of patching it (with something like light-cured acrylic)? It *think* it looks decent otherwise (but it is hard to tell what is dirt vs damage) I’m not sure what I was going to use, but was going to look into some of the bathtub repair products and try to match the color as close as possible. Any recommendations would be great. It's interesting to me that you have a "refrigeration machine" badge. Mine has a higher serial number, yet has "icing unit". Maybe one of them was a replacement over the years, or they found some old "icing unit" badges when sweeping the floors and decided to put them to good use when they made mine I wish it had an “icing unit”!badge. I have two “refrigeration machine“ badges and would gladly trade one for an ”icing unit” badge, but I seriously doubt anyone would take me up on that.
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Post by birkie on Feb 21, 2018 17:57:15 GMT
I’m not sure what I was going to use, but was going to look into some of the bathtub repair products and try to match the color as close as possible. Any recommendations would be great. Take a look at this: monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/474/porcelain-repairThere's a widely available product called ceramicure that is basically the same thing. They did at one time offer color matching and also sold dyes for DIY mixing, but now they've remuddled their website into a form that is unsuitable for conveying information, so I'm not sure if they still do that!
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Post by joneske on Feb 22, 2018 17:31:32 GMT
I’m not sure what I was going to use, but was going to look into some of the bathtub repair products and try to match the color as close as possible. Any recommendations would be great. Take a look at this: monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/474/porcelain-repairThere's a widely available product called ceramicure that is basically the same thing. They did at one time offer color matching and also sold dyes for DIY mixing, but now they've remuddled their website into a form that is unsuitable for conveying information, so I'm not sure if they still do that! Thanks. I contacted this company. Travis pointed out the color on my 1928 cabinet may be a different shade than was used in the thread, so I am sending a sample to the vendor to see if they can make a match. I will post the information they provide.
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Post by birkie on Feb 23, 2018 3:00:25 GMT
Oh, excellent! Glad to hear they do that, and eager to see the results. That DRA2 is in good hands
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Post by joneske on Feb 24, 2018 16:42:33 GMT
Thanks. I hope so. The seller had it running and cooling when I went out there, but I know there could still be issues. I won’t know for sure how well it performs until I get a heater in it, replace the seals, and fire it up and let it run for an extended period.
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1928 DRA2
Feb 25, 2018 2:40:53 GMT
via mobile
Post by rick on Feb 25, 2018 2:40:53 GMT
For the trim issue, could you straighten it as best as possible and maybe put it on the back side? I don't know if it has the same trim on the back as I have never gotten to look closely at that type of cabinet.
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1928 DRA2
Feb 25, 2018 4:00:22 GMT
via mobile
Post by timeswelding on Feb 25, 2018 4:00:22 GMT
Worst case scenario is that you have to remake the trim. It can be done.
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Post by joneske on Feb 25, 2018 7:13:00 GMT
The back piece is damaged also, although not as bad. I’m looking into trying to have them repaired, although most likely I’ll need to have new ones made.
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Post by joneske on Feb 28, 2018 21:55:15 GMT
Some updates on the DRA2: - I have the control stripped and have given it to Zach to see about having a new ones made. It is quite a challenge to him but he feels he is up to it. As usual, Travis has been a huge help with this. He pointed out that the part the holds the bellows is mounted with screws and so there was no need to freeze it. Also, he told me all Type C controls share the same hole pattern, so if we are succussful, this should work for other DRs with this control.
- I receved the longer screws and have them polished and ready to go. I replaced the hollow wall anchors with dowels and am ready to patch the area under the latch. My sample should arrive to the vendor tommorow, so hopefully they can achieve a color match.
- I ohmed the windings last night and the following are the numbers I got:
Start to common: 4.1 Start to run 7 Common to run 3.5
Baby steps, but I'm happy with the progress so far. I will post pictures once I get a little further along.
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