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Post by ChrisJ on Jul 7, 2015 15:29:13 GMT
I just noticed the "reproduction door gasket" I bought a while back, in my opinion, works terrible. It barely makes contact with half of the cabinet because it's so hard. The hinge side makes complete contact but as you move away from that you get a gap. I have to assume this is why my latch seems questionable too, the gasket is way too stiff. There has to be a better option? Has anyone tried the gaskets sold by Antique Appliances? They are D shaped and look much more like the original style. Attachments:
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Post by stlvortac on Jul 7, 2015 16:57:49 GMT
I've had the same problem with my reproduction gasket. Still fighting a moisture problem in my humid garage. Its almost impossible to seal because its so hard. I need a form fitting gasket.
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Post by ChrisJ on Jul 7, 2015 17:10:01 GMT
I've had the same problem with my reproduction gasket. Still fighting a moisture problem in my humid garage. Its almost impossible to seal because its so hard. I need a form fitting gasket. I'm looking at McMaster Carr right now. They seem to have a fair amount of options. Do you have a rough idea of how thick your gasket needs to be?
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Post by stlvortac on Jul 7, 2015 17:22:58 GMT
Chris, if the flat part of reproduction was a playable D shaped seal it might do the trick. Never mind the weather stripping I had laying around the house. It worked great until the last few weeks of nonstop rain. This is the spot moisture condenses.
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Post by ChrisJ on Jul 7, 2015 17:25:53 GMT
I'm thinking this may work. Not sure if 1/4" thick is enough though? Attachments:
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Post by stlvortac on Jul 7, 2015 17:29:35 GMT
Hmm. Not sure if its thick enough either.
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Post by ChrisJ on Jul 7, 2015 18:37:49 GMT
Ok, so I ordered the 1/4" thick one. It's hard to tell because the latch is tapered and spring loaded to pull the door tight. So, the thinner the gasket, the more it pulls the door in within reason. The only problem being the hinge side because, at least on my cabinets, those don't move and are not adjustable.
The other reason I went with the one I posted above is the durometer. The other options on Mcmaster are harder rubber where the high temp silicone is A50-A60 which isn't super soft, but not real hard either.
I suspect the gaskets we have right now are A70-A75 when all we want is something thin and soft that will contour to the cabinet.
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Grigg
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 95
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Post by Grigg on Jul 8, 2015 12:45:35 GMT
I think it'd be helpful if you listed the full McMaster numbers you have tried and or are considering in the post. It'd be easier to search for and copy and paste into the Mcmaster site. If it helps any this is a picture of the reproduction gasket I ordered for our 37 CK door. It is 1-1/8" wide and about 1/4" tall By the dimensions seems that McMAster # 1142A84 might be a good or perhaps even better substitute. The MmMaster one does have a larger bulb diameter but if it is soft enough it should squish out and do a good job sealing? With the reproduction door gasket I purchased a generic top gasket that best I can tell looks like McMaster # 1129A979 or perhaps # 1142A77 (I should measure and find out for sure, though either may work) Grigg
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Post by cablehack on Jul 8, 2015 13:02:47 GMT
This is how Don's door seal looks on my CA-1 By loosening the hinge screws on the door it is possible (with the 1934 Glyptal finished cabinets at least) to move the door slightly further from or closer to the cabinet front. This alleviates the common complaint of being hard to close the door with this seal. It's true that the rubber/neoprene? the seal is made from is rather stiff but if the cabinet and door are not warped I've found it to do the job very well. It does seem to soften over time. It isn't able to conform to the warpage of my CA-2 cabinet so I've had to pack it out in places. It's probably a good idea to check cabinet/door fit before using this seal.
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Post by ChrisJ on Jul 8, 2015 20:54:19 GMT
This is how Don's door seal looks on my CA-1 View AttachmentBy loosening the hinge screws on the door it is possible (with the 1934 Glyptal finished cabinets at least) to move the door slightly further from or closer to the cabinet front. This alleviates the common complaint of being hard to close the door with this seal. It's true that the rubber/neoprene? the seal is made from is rather stiff but if the cabinet and door are not warped I've found it to do the job very well. It does seem to soften over time. It isn't able to conform to the warpage of my CA-2 cabinet so I've had to pack it out in places. It's probably a good idea to check cabinet/door fit before using this seal. Is it just an illusion, or are our doors completely different? The black rubber is just a rubber gasket I made to sort of match the original paper ones that fell apart. The door is barely thicker than the hinge flange. This is the new gasket. it's 90% better with only a small questionable spot on the hinge side. This was McMaster Carr part number 1129A995 in black 10 foot. The main thing I dislike is I'm sloppy with cutting and the rubber it self is kind of sticky. You know, the kind that seems to attract dust and hair? But it is fairly soft and seems to work well. My biggest issue seems to be the bottom right corner of the cabinet is tight against the gasket and may be holding the rest out more than normal. Not really sure how to fix this on a porcelain cabinet.
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Post by bhigdog on Jul 8, 2015 21:14:10 GMT
I used a 1/4" DEE type gasket on my CA-2. It was not thick enough to seal at the bottom right corner with no way to move the door closer. On my DR-1 I used a gasket from Steele rubber. 7/16 wide by 5/16 thick. It's a 5 rib design of soft closed cell foam with a 3M adhesive back. It was just a bit too thick but that was a good thing. I adjusted the door out a bit at the latch and installed .060 thick shims under the hinges. They are not visable if done neatly. If your cabinet isn't uniform top to bottom at the hinges, different thickness shims can be used. My DR door fits snugly and closes tightly all around the door on a piece of paper. Steele Rubber lists a number of peel and stick gasket materials in different sizes and designs. Item # 83-1038-73 works perfectly.......Bob
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Post by cablehack on Jul 9, 2015 7:55:14 GMT
Is it just an illusion, or are our doors completely different? As far as I can tell the doors have the same shape near the hinges. What differences do you think the porcelain door has?
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Post by ChrisJ on Jul 9, 2015 10:43:56 GMT
Is it just an illusion, or are our doors completely different? As far as I can tell the doors have the same shape near the hinges. What differences do you think the porcelain door has? My mistake. I was looking at it completely backwards and thought the cabinet was the door. I'm so used to left hand doors. Wonder why mine doesn't seem to adjust at all? Maybe it needs some encouragement?
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Post by cablehack on Jul 9, 2015 12:21:58 GMT
Yeah I thought it might be that. There isn't much adjustment available but I was able to make the door closing less tight. Just looking through the manuals, I hadn't taken notice of it before or really thought about it, but it should be possible to get my CA-2 door to line up with the cabinet warpage by loosening the Textolite strips.
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Post by allan on Jul 9, 2015 23:58:16 GMT
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