|
Post by blackhorse on Aug 26, 2017 20:47:28 GMT
Except the oil pump, dagnabbit.....
|
|
|
Post by ckfan on Aug 26, 2017 20:48:40 GMT
Except the oil pump, dagnabbit..... I take it you've had trouble with the tremendous oil pump?
|
|
|
Post by blackhorse on Aug 26, 2017 20:52:31 GMT
It seems to suffer rather badly from corrosion for systems that have opened to the atmosphere. Actually the only part inside a CK compressor that I've ever had fail.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2017 22:21:01 GMT
WONDERFUL! Thanks Travis!
|
|
|
Post by timeswelding on Aug 27, 2017 3:02:51 GMT
Another general comment: I have been admiring and collecting refrigerators for 20 years. For at least the first 7 years of that, I didn't have ANY manuals. I was so excited when a seller on ebay started selling copies of manuals. Now the manuals are on this forum for free and it seems that few can be bothered to read them. I don't mean that you have to have an in-depth understanding of your machine, but the CK manual is chocked full of directions on how to remove and replace nearly everything. To further elaborate on what Travis was saying (without his polite eloquence).... To everyone wanting to make their awesome Monitor Top Refrigerator functional again, a few founding members of this forum have gone to great lengths to make a library of valuable information free for the taking. READ IT.
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 27, 2017 11:02:38 GMT
Another general comment: I have been admiring and collecting refrigerators for 20 years. For at least the first 7 years of that, I didn't have ANY manuals. I was so excited when a seller on ebay started selling copies of manuals. Now the manuals are on this forum for free and it seems that few can be bothered to read them. I don't mean that you have to have an in-depth understanding of your machine, but the CK manual is chocked full of directions on how to remove and replace nearly everything. I never saw this in the CG tech section. I should have looked a little harder it appears. But thanks for the reference!
|
|
|
Post by george35 on Sept 30, 2020 1:11:29 GMT
Hello everyone. I just acquired a CG-1- A 16. It's missing the control unit, cover, and thermostat. I guess the first step is to check the motor for open windings before going further. Cabinet is in very good condition. Advice please.
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Sept 30, 2020 3:15:29 GMT
Hello everyone. I just acquired a CG-1- A 16. It's missing the control unit, cover, and thermostat. I guess the first step is to check the motor for open windings before going further. Cabinet is in very good condition. Advice please. Yes check the windings first. Most controls for the CGs seam to suffer from living in a damp environment and have burnt contacts. I have an analyzer to hook directly to the windings and test run it. This can also be done with the right test cord. Not sure if you have such equipment and experience with it or not.
|
|
|
Post by george35 on Sept 30, 2020 14:05:47 GMT
Can I check with a common ohm meter ? Please give detailed directions on just how to test windings. Travis gave some directions on another unit recently. But I want to be sure to do this correctly. The cord with the three wires that connect to the control are hanging inside of the refrigerator and easily accessible. Thanks for the help.
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Oct 1, 2020 3:46:59 GMT
Yes most any ohm meter will work if you know how to use it. I don't know your skills at this. You have to check across all three wires and from the wires to the compressor housing or tubing. There should be no continuity to the housing, that would be a short. There should be continuity across the wires. Wright down you readings and post them for us too see. Black should be the common wire, red the run winding and white the start winding. Common to run should be a lower reading than common to start. Measuring across start to run should be a total of the first two readings.
|
|
|
Post by ChrisJ on May 4, 2021 16:26:43 GMT
I was originally planning on putting an RO81 in place of the start relay but now I'm wondering if that's not so smart. Added heat in the box with the thermostat? I don't know how much it would matter?
Primarily I'm after an additional new overload.
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on May 4, 2021 18:36:42 GMT
I was originally planning on putting an RO81 in place of the start relay but now I'm wondering if that's not so smart. Added heat in the box with the thermostat? I don't know how much it would matter? Primarily I'm after an additional new overload. I will offer my humble opinion on the RO81 for this machine. Don't use that. GE went to such lengths with the unloader system etc. to allow the compressor to be able to restart, even if it had just been stopped. Using a PTC device is throwing all that away since a PTC can't ever restart immediately. I would definitely go with another current relay; if the original can't be rebuilt.
|
|
|
Post by ChrisJ on May 4, 2021 18:55:32 GMT
I was originally planning on putting an RO81 in place of the start relay but now I'm wondering if that's not so smart. Added heat in the box with the thermostat? I don't know how much it would matter? Primarily I'm after an additional new overload. I will offer my humble opinion on the RO81 for this machine. Don't use that. GE went to such lengths with the unloader system etc. to allow the compressor to be able to restart, even if it had just been stopped. Using a PTC device is throwing all that away since a PTC can't ever restart immediately. I would definitely go with another current relay; if the original can't be rebuilt. Hi turbo, Thank you for commenting. It's my understanding the unloader was because the float valve doesn't equalize, so even with a PTC it's still required. But, I have thought about that many times since I've had one in my CA-2-A16 for years. Though it's rare, it would be cool if it could restart after a power blink etc. That aside, do you feel the original overload can be trusted? That's mainly what I'm after.
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on May 4, 2021 22:34:38 GMT
I will offer my humble opinion on the RO81 for this machine. Don't use that. GE went to such lengths with the unloader system etc. to allow the compressor to be able to restart, even if it had just been stopped. Using a PTC device is throwing all that away since a PTC can't ever restart immediately. I would definitely go with another current relay; if the original can't be rebuilt. Hi turbo, Thank you for commenting. It's my understanding the unloader was because the float valve doesn't equalize, so even with a PTC it's still required. But, I have thought about that many times since I've had one in my CA-2-A16 for years. Though it's rare, it would be cool if it could restart after a power blink etc. That aside, do you feel the original overload can be trusted? That's mainly what I'm after. The Supco overload is much better, but again the start relay side of those things is very disappointing to me.
|
|
|
Post by cablehack on May 4, 2021 23:34:48 GMT
Primarily I'm after an additional new overload. Just use the overload PTC of the RO81 with the existing start relay.
|
|