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Post by mynewbeerfridge on Dec 4, 2023 13:20:36 GMT
Turbokinetic, I bought a 1927 Monitor a few weeks ago. It has a type CR-1050-E-1 controller as best I can identify. It goes thru the start sequence and compressor appears to be running for about 20 seconds then the overload wire turns red and trips off. For what it's worth the outside temperature in my garage is in mid-50's. I'm assuming I'm hearing a running compressor sound after the relays start. Any suggestions on where to get additional readings (I have a volt meter) at this point would be appreciated.
(moderator's note: Some posts moved to this thread from another thread)
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 4, 2023 14:10:48 GMT
Turbokinetic, I bought a 1927 Monitor a few weeks ago. It has a type CR-1050-E-1 controller as best I can identify. It goes thru the start sequence and compressor appears to be running for about 20 seconds then the overload wire turns red and trips off. For what it's worth the outside temperature in my garage is in mid-50's. I'm assuming I'm hearing a running compressor sound after the relays start. Any suggestions on where to get additional readings (I have a volt meter) at this point would be appreciated. Hi there. The running and tripping after 20 seconds is somewhat of an ominous symptom. Using your meter, measure resistance from the power cord input to the body of the compressor. You will have to find a bare part of the tubing or a screw head which is free of paint. If you have a resistance lower than about 1.125 megohms (1.125MΩ) this indicates the compressor motor or wiring is developing an insulation failure of some sort. If the reading is very low (100's of ohms) then you are looking at a totally failed motor. If the resistance is above 1.125MΩ, please take a short video of the start relay mechanism and we may be able to offer more guidance. Sincerely, David
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Post by mynewbeerfridge on Dec 4, 2023 23:12:03 GMT
Hello Gents, I just bought this a few weeks ago and know nothing about them of course but it's in great shape. I replaced the power cord and cleaned the contacts in the controller. The start relay appear to be working fine but once started will only run about 15 seconds and the compressor trips off. Any help on where to look first would be appreciated. MNBF I reposted this hopefully correctly and David (turbokinetics) has responded to my query with some troubleshooting.
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 5, 2023 13:58:39 GMT
Hello Gents, I just bought this a few weeks ago and know nothing about them of course but it's in great shape. I replaced the power cord and cleaned the contacts in the controller. The start relay appear to be working fine but once started will only run about 15 seconds and the compressor trips off. Any help on where to look first would be appreciated. MNBF I reposted this hopefully correctly and David (turbokinetic) has responded to my query with some troubleshooting. Hey, I tried to be "helpful" and move the previous posts about your fridge to your new thread, but it seems they show up out of order. Sorry about that. It's how the forum software works. It's possible for staff to move a post from one thread to another but I can't find a way to re-order posts in a thread. As for your DR D-2 machine, it looks like you have most of the interior pieces and there doesn't seem to be much corrosion or deterioration. The door gasket is obviously perished, but the fact that it is still in place would make me think that the cabinet hasn't been touched in a long time. Under the cover of the control box, you will find the start relay and overload (as you are aware) The start relay is what we are interested in at this time. With power off, that should sit with the start contacts closed. The relay armature should be tilted toward the front of the fridge, resting on the series coil. Within a second of powering-on the fridge, the start relay armature should flip to the rearward position, resting on the potential coil. Can you make a short video showing the operation of the control, while making a start attempt? That will be helpful. Another thing which will be helpful is knowing how many amps the compressor is taking while it's running. Do you have a plug-in power meter such as a Kill-A-Watt? It's really a necessary tool for working on these. Sincerely, David
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Post by mynewbeerfridge on Dec 5, 2023 15:20:11 GMT
David, Here is a link of my testing this morning. It seemed to have 1.4 or 1.5 mega ohms on my reading from the power plug prongs to the copper coil. Let me know what you think...or if you have any problems seeing it. It's always clearer on my phone it seems. photos.app.goo.gl/JXJwqwUwRpZX8SDZAThanks, Bruce
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 5, 2023 15:39:59 GMT
David, Here is a link of my testing this morning. It seemed to have 1.4 or 1.5 mega ohms on my reading from the power plug prongs to the copper coil. Let me know what you think...or if you have any problems seeing it. It's always clearer on my phone it seems. photos.app.goo.gl/JXJwqwUwRpZX8SDZAThanks, Bruce Thanks for the videos. It does appear that the start relay is failing to shift to the run position, once the machine is up to speed. There is one test you can do, where you force the relay into the run position after it's up to speed. Use a non-conductive object such as a plastic ballpoint pen. As soon as the compressor is running, press the rear part of the relay down, to take the unit out of startup mode. If it won't stay that way, keep holding it. See if that allows it to run for longer, or run continuously. It is very important that you measure the running current during the above test. Use a Kill-A-Watt meter. Should draw 3 amps or less, once it's running if I remember. I am a little worried, though, because the startup seems sluggish and the megohm reading is marginal. The running current with the relay forced out of start position will tell us a whole lot.
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Post by mynewbeerfridge on Dec 5, 2023 16:05:17 GMT
Hi David, I have a KilloWatt meter coming in the mail. I think I tried holding down the contact on the left relay once it got past the start mode and the windings still get red and it trips out. Thanks Bruce
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 5, 2023 16:19:01 GMT
Hi David, I have a KilloWatt meter coming in the mail. I think I tried holding down the contact on the left relay once it got past the start mode and the windings still get red and it trips out. Thanks Bruce That's very unfortunate about the findings when you try to hold down the start relay in the run position. What you are seeing there is a very high overcurrent condition, in spite of the start winding being out of circuit. Unfortunately, this means you will probably have to rewind the motor. Again, we will need to see what the running amps are to determine that. Did you see a big spark at the relay contacts when you force them open?
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Post by mynewbeerfridge on Dec 5, 2023 19:32:50 GMT
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 5, 2023 20:16:55 GMT
So; it looks as if the relay did drop out by its self that time. In spite of that, it seems that it still is drawing way too much current and the overload is tripping. Will be interested to see what the amp draw is once you have a meter.
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Post by mynewbeerfridge on Dec 5, 2023 20:33:47 GMT
David, I may as well fess up now but I have been not plugging this directly into an outlet...I've been using a good sized 20 ft extension cord if that would make a difference. I figured if only drawing 3 amps it should be ok... Bruce
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 5, 2023 20:39:59 GMT
David, I may as well fess up now but I have been not plugging this directly into an outlet...I've been using a good sized 20 ft extension cord if that would make a difference. I figured if only drawing 3 amps it should be ok... Bruce If I remember correctly, these are suitable for use from 95 to 130 volts. Your extension cord would have to have an extreme voltage drop to cause problems. Not going to cause the issue you are having.
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Post by mynewbeerfridge on Dec 8, 2023 21:15:20 GMT
Dave, In case my machine is not repairable there is another machine for sale I saw that is advertised as running. What is a decent price to buy this for? Thanks, Bruce
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Post by douro20 on Dec 9, 2023 0:24:09 GMT
Looks like a CK-1.
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 9, 2023 2:13:04 GMT
Dave, In case my machine is not repairable there is another machine for sale I saw that is advertised as running. What is a decent price to buy this for? Thanks, Bruce View AttachmentView AttachmentIt's definitely a CK, but I think it's a CK-2 due to the width of the evaporator. The CK machines are very reliable! I would pay no more than $200 or $250 for it since it hasn't been rewired and it's not a porcelain cabinet.
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