|
Post by ajc31980 on Aug 5, 2018 12:52:48 GMT
Hi all So I think maybe, I have my thermostat issues kinda under control. Lol ............ Also would any one happen to know of a modern thermostat that would be a good replacement ? Just in case I do end up needing one in the future. I know there are differences between what would be needed for a none self defrosting and self defrosting fridge. Just not totally sure what to look for. Thanks AJ This is good! Hopefully it stays calibrated and the only reason it drifted was due to some wear and tear in the parts of the thermostat over the years.
Most modern fridges that are fully automatic defrost use a separate timer control which stops the compressor and turns on a heating element in the evaporator area for a set period of time, every few days.
I believe the most important aspect of the temp control would be to get one which is designed to sense the evaporator temperature for a fridge with an open evaporator design. Some of the others are designed to sense the cabinet temperature instead. So, if the thermostat probe isn't designed to clamp to the evaporator, then it probably wouldn't work well for that application.
Yes. I’m hoping that it will behave it’s self. But considering the thermostat will be 71 years old in October. ( the date stamped on the bottom is October 47 )You just never... I think I’m going to keep searching for a possible replacement just to have on hand. I know my Frigidaire flair oven thermostat likes to drift and go out of calibration. I’d say it does that roughly once every year or so .. but it’s 10 times! easier to recalibrate haha The fridge thermostat isn’t quite so easy lol. So if it keeps drifting out of calibration it may get replaced. Though I would prefer to keep the original. I was browsing antique appliances.com and was wondering if any one had ever used this one as a replacement? store.antiqueappliances.com/Ranco-Replacement-Thermostat_p_15.html
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Aug 5, 2018 13:27:49 GMT
This is good! Hopefully it stays calibrated and the only reason it drifted was due to some wear and tear in the parts of the thermostat over the years.
Most modern fridges that are fully automatic defrost use a separate timer control which stops the compressor and turns on a heating element in the evaporator area for a set period of time, every few days.
I believe the most important aspect of the temp control would be to get one which is designed to sense the evaporator temperature for a fridge with an open evaporator design. Some of the others are designed to sense the cabinet temperature instead. So, if the thermostat probe isn't designed to clamp to the evaporator, then it probably wouldn't work well for that application.
Yes. I’m hoping that it will behave it’s self. But considering the thermostat will be 71 years old in October. ( the date stamped on the bottom is October 47 )You just never... I think I’m going to keep searching for a possible replacement just to have on hand. I know my Frigidaire flair oven thermostat likes to drift and go out of calibration. I’d say it does that roughly once every year or so .. but it’s 10 times! easier to recalibrate haha The fridge thermostat isn’t quite so easy lol. So if it keeps drifting out of calibration it may get replaced. Though I would prefer to keep the original. I was browsing antique appliances.com and was wondering if any one had ever used this one as a replacement? store.antiqueappliances.com/Ranco-Replacement-Thermostat_p_15.html
That looks like it would work. Also, I would trust that Antique Appliances would know it's applicable since they use it on their restored refrigerators.
In your case, I would be careful to be sure it can fit in the location your old one fits. It's often hard to tell the scale of something in pictures, but it seems the Ranco control may be wider than the original GE one. Or I could be totally wrong.
|
|
|
Post by ajc31980 on Aug 5, 2018 13:37:45 GMT
Yes. I’m hoping that it will behave it’s self. But considering the thermostat will be 71 years old in October. ( the date stamped on the bottom is October 47 )You just never... I think I’m going to keep searching for a possible replacement just to have on hand. I know my Frigidaire flair oven thermostat likes to drift and go out of calibration. I’d say it does that roughly once every year or so .. but it’s 10 times! easier to recalibrate haha The fridge thermostat isn’t quite so easy lol. So if it keeps drifting out of calibration it may get replaced. Though I would prefer to keep the original. I was browsing antique appliances.com and was wondering if any one had ever used this one as a replacement? store.antiqueappliances.com/Ranco-Replacement-Thermostat_p_15.html
That looks like it would work. Also, I would trust that Antique Appliances would know it's applicable since they use it on their restored refrigerators.
In your case, I would be careful to be sure it can fit in the location your old one fits. It's often hard to tell the scale of something in pictures, but it seems the Ranco control may be wider than the original GE one. Or I could be totally wrong.
Yes I would like to think they know what they are talking about too. The original thermostat is actually a bit bigger than it appears in the pictures and there is good bit of room up in area it is mounted. The replacement would have to be pretty big to not fit up in there. Lol I’ve been doing some searching. Think I’ve found the same thermostat for a lot better price ! And it’s seems that from a lot of the reviews on the page it’s been used in more than one vintage refrigerator. So I may get it just have on hand. Plus this link may serve to be helpful to anyone looking for a replacement too ! 😁 www.supplyhouse.com/Ranco-A30-180-Ice-Machine-Control-w-42-Capillary
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Aug 5, 2018 13:52:23 GMT
That looks like it would work. Also, I would trust that Antique Appliances would know it's applicable since they use it on their restored refrigerators.
In your case, I would be careful to be sure it can fit in the location your old one fits. It's often hard to tell the scale of something in pictures, but it seems the Ranco control may be wider than the original GE one. Or I could be totally wrong.
Yes I would like to think they know what they are talking about too. The original thermostat is actually a bit bigger than it appears in the pictures and there is good bit of room up in area it is mounted. The replacement would have to be pretty big to not fit up in there. Lol I’ve been doing some searching. Think I’ve found the same thermostat for a lot better price ! And it’s seems that from a lot of the reviews on the page it’s been used in more than one vintage refrigerator. So I may get it just have on hand. Plus this link may serve to be helpful to anyone looking for a replacement too ! 😁 www.supplyhouse.com/Ranco-A30-180-Ice-Machine-Control-w-42-CapillaryIt does look like everyone who's used and reviewed this has had success with it. Since it has the wide adjustment range to it, you would not lose the defrost capability, either.
|
|
|
Post by ajc31980 on Aug 5, 2018 14:08:15 GMT
Yes I would like to think they know what they are talking about too. The original thermostat is actually a bit bigger than it appears in the pictures and there is good bit of room up in area it is mounted. The replacement would have to be pretty big to not fit up in there. Lol I’ve been doing some searching. Think I’ve found the same thermostat for a lot better price ! And it’s seems that from a lot of the reviews on the page it’s been used in more than one vintage refrigerator. So I may get it just have on hand. Plus this link may serve to be helpful to anyone looking for a replacement too ! 😁 www.supplyhouse.com/Ranco-A30-180-Ice-Machine-Control-w-42-CapillaryIt does look like everyone who's used and reviewed this has had success with it. Since it has the wide adjustment range to it, you would not lose the defrost capability, either.
I hadn’t thought about the defrost capability! That’s an added plus if it would indeed still work. But really not necessary for me personally. I did have to defrost the fridge once. With all the high humidity and rain we’ve been having in my area plus with me having the door open messing with the thermostat ( I had the wires jumped to keep the case cold ) I had a good bit of frost. I chose the rapid method mentioned in the user manual. I shut it off and placed a pan of hot water in side the freezer. It defrosted pretty quick. Prolly around 20 min and it was ready to roll.
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Aug 6, 2018 1:34:30 GMT
|
|
|
Post by ajc31980 on Aug 6, 2018 1:48:38 GMT
I did see that a wile back. But I guess it slipped my mind. I’ve read good bit on here. So much that some of it’s become a blur.... lol. Thanks for the reminder :-) I think that I am going to end up replacing the thermostat. It’s running to warm today. To keep the box at 38F. I had to turn the dial all the way to max.. it did work ok for a few days. I guess it’s just worn out. I placed an order for the A30-180 from supply house. estimated delivery is Wednesday. Wish me luck lol. I’ll keep you all posted :-).
|
|
|
Post by ajc31980 on Aug 11, 2018 5:23:30 GMT
Hi everyone! :-) I got my new thermostat! it’s small compared to the old one ! I installed it last night after I got home from work. It’s been working great so far . Run times are. 2:55 min on and 12:39 off. Box temp is 33/34 F. I wasn’t able to use the original control knob. Even tho the replacement came with a lot different adaptive shafts. It did come with a numbered knob and I had a small black knob that fits to Not sure which one I’m going to use, suppose it doesn’t matter bottom line is the thermostat works ! though I can be a stickler for having original some times. I may have to just give a little on this one. Lol. And I just realized that it’s been a little over a month and the sealed system is still holding its charge ! And now for some sort of.... not so great news. ( cause I think this has become one of those never ending projects ). I think I may need to get a new relay ? It’s only done this 4 times that I know of. When it kicks on. It’ll run for maybe a minute and shut off. You can hear a loud click/ thud sound from down underneath. Then it’ll kick back in with in 30 sec and run fine. When it kicks back on I can hear a louder hum sound that it’s not normally preset on startup. Today is the first time I caught it doing this with the kilowatt meter hooked up. The amp draw was slightly over 8amps. When it restarted. They returned to normal. Which is usually 2.50 to 2.60 Amps. Some times the amps are less around. 2.30 to 2.45 amp. This all is making me think that the start relay is sticking ? And keeping the start winding energized on the compressor causing the overload to kick. I saw In another thread for a “1950’s GE that ran but was no longer cooling “ that, that person replaced there relay with a R401 start relay. I noticed in the pictures that refrigerator has a compressor that is almost identical to mine. only their model only uses 11 ounces of refrigerant where is mine uses 12.5. And is 1/8 Hp So I need advice on finding a replacement relay. Or if it’s possible. To fix the original 😉 I haven’t pulled the original relay out and examined it yet because I know they can be kind of fragile and sensitive if you mess with the points. But would like to know what’s causing it to occasionally stick. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks AJ . Side note. 9 days till I go get my first monitor top ! 😁 can’t wait !! elec573
|
|
|
Post by ajc31980 on Aug 11, 2018 6:31:49 GMT
So I decided to just take a closer look at the relay. Are these suppose to rattle when moved ? Here’s a youtube clip. It rattles so easily . Once in a wile I hear a rattle when the compressor shuts off. I think this what I’m hearing. youtu.be/Wi25Wgefajc
|
|
|
Post by ajc31980 on Aug 11, 2018 8:39:55 GMT
I was just reading through the references section. And read a thread on the RO-81 relay overload . So this one is a relay and overload combo ? Are they pretty reliable ? Maybe I’ll get one give it try.
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Aug 11, 2018 12:45:36 GMT
Hi everyone! :-) I got my new thermostat! it’s small compared to the old one ! I installed it last night after I got home from work. It’s been working great so far . Run times are. 2:55 min on and 12:39 off. Box temp is 33/34 F. I wasn’t able to use the original control knob. Even tho the replacement came with a lot different adaptive shafts. It did come with a numbered knob and I had a small black knob that fits to Not sure which one I’m going to use, suppose it doesn’t matter bottom line is the thermostat works ! though I can be a stickler for having original some times. I may have to just give a little on this one. Lol. [images] And I just realized that it’s been a little over a month and the sealed system is still holding its charge ! And now for some sort of.... not so great news. ( cause I think this has become one of those never ending projects ). I think I may need to get a new relay ? It’s only done this 4 times that I know of. When it kicks on. It’ll run for maybe a minute and shut off. You can hear a loud click/ thud sound from down underneath. Then it’ll kick back in with in 30 sec and run fine. When it kicks back on I can hear a louder hum sound that it’s not normally preset on startup. Today is the first time I caught it doing this with the kilowatt meter hooked up. The amp draw was slightly over 8amps. When it restarted. They returned to normal. Which is usually 2.50 to 2.60 Amps. Some times the amps are less around. 2.30 to 2.45 amp. This all is making me think that the start relay is sticking ? And keeping the start winding energized on the compressor causing the overload to kick. I saw In another thread for a “1950’s GE that ran but was no longer cooling “ that, that person replaced there relay with a R401 start relay. I noticed in the pictures that refrigerator has a compressor that is almost identical to mine. only their model only uses 11 ounces of refrigerant where is mine uses 12.5. And is 1/8 Hp So I need advice on finding a replacement relay. Or if it’s possible. To fix the original 😉 I haven’t pulled the original relay out and examined it yet because I know they can be kind of fragile and sensitive if you mess with the points. But would like to know what’s causing it to occasionally stick. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks AJ . Side note. 9 days till I go get my first monitor top ! 😁 can’t wait !! elec573 It's good to hear that the control is working. It looks like it mounted nicely in the original location; aside from the knob. Could you take the white knob (with the numbers) ad sand it down, so that the numbers are gone? Then, carve one notch in it at the correct position, to point to the original numbers on the face plate? I was thinking possibly, use one of the adapter shafts that came with the new thermostat as an arbor. Chuck this in a drill, and spin the knob against sandpaper to remove the numbers. Just a thought!
Also, congrats on the Monitor Top. I remember your talking about that! Is it a CA if I remember? Just curious if you saw the very sad CK I intercepted on the way to the scrap yard?
As for the start relay sticking, yes, it sounds like this is what's happening.
So I decided to just take a closer look at the relay. Are these suppose to rattle when moved ? Here’s a youtube clip. It rattles so easily . Once in a wile I hear a rattle when the compressor shuts off. I think this what I’m hearing. youtu.be/Wi25WgefajcThe relay you show is almost identical (if not exactly) as the one on the CK Monitor Top I just got. The relay is designed to rattle like that. There is an armature inside which swings back and forth on a tiny little leaf spring. The contacts are large and robust, and should be easily able to be filed if they are roughened and sticking. The relay is position-sensitive. There should be a marking "TOP" or "UP" (can't remember which) on one side of it. The writing was in some silver ink which would wipe off easily, so if the writing is gone, I can take pictures of mine. One end of the relay needs to be straight up. If the relay is turned sideways or upside down, it will not work properly and can, indeed, damage the compressor. There is an overload breaker inside the relay as well. Sadly, I didn't take pictures of mine while I had it apart. There are several screws on the back of the relay which have sealant over them. Do not remove them, as they are the adjustment of the overload trip current and reset time. The center hole in the relay has a screw or a rivet in it. That's the one hole which goes all the way through the housing. In mine, it had a rivet which I had to drill out. I was just reading through the references section. And read a thread on the RO-81 relay overload . So this one is a relay and overload combo ? Are they pretty reliable ? Maybe I’ll get one give it try.
Yes that's a relay and overload combination. They are reliable, in my opinion, however there have been failures. The failures have been somewhat destructive in nature, so that I would encourage you to leave the original relay's overload breaker in the circuit, in addition to the RO81.
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Aug 11, 2018 13:00:26 GMT
I was able to catch a glimpse of the markings on your relay, and attempted to screenshot it here. The word "TOP" is boxed in red. Your thumb partially covers it. The red arrow is the end which needs to stay up. The small end is the top; not the side with the writing printed on it.
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Aug 11, 2018 13:08:14 GMT
You would have to be creative and find a way to make a shaft adapter to possible make your original knob work. The adapters they sent should all be brass and easy to solder to with Stay Brite I have not tried to adapt one like it myself.
I was not a fan of solid stat relays because they need to cool off before they will cycle again. However if you read the RO81 package it tells us that it has a special overload the is made for cap tube systems. When it trips it stays off about 4 mins giving time for the system to balance. That I like as it also lets the relay cool down so it will do its job. I have opened the RO81 just to get the overload to use and scraped the relay. Good source for an overload for a small HP compressors.
|
|
|
Post by turbokinetic on Aug 11, 2018 13:14:41 GMT
You would have to be creative and find a way to make a shaft adapter to possible make your original knob work. The adapters they sent should all be brass and easy to solder to with Stay Brite I have not tried to adapt one like it myself. I was not a fan of solid stat relays because they need to cool off before they will cycle again. However if you read the RO81 package it tells us that it has a special overload the is made for cap tube systems. When it trips it stays off about 4 mins giving time for the system to balance. That I like as it also lets the relay cool down so it will do its job. I have opened the RO81 just to get the overload to use and scraped the relay. Good source for an overload for a small HP compressors.
I remembered reading about that! That thread encouraged me to buy and dismantle a similar 3-in-1 Supco device, and adapt it to the non-hermetic motor in my belt-drive Frigidaire. The motor had a centrifugal switch which was in pieces due to someone's previous botched repair attempt.
The overload does work exactly as they claim it does. I had a power blink while the Frigidaire was running. The motor short-cycled and tripped the overload before I could do anything about it. I sat there and waited on it to reset. Didn't count the time, but it was several minutes. When the OL reset, the PTC start relay was ready to work, and it fired right back up!
|
|
|
Post by ajc31980 on Aug 11, 2018 13:18:08 GMT
I was able to catch a glimpse of the markings on your relay, and attempted to screenshot it here. The word "TOP" is boxed in red. Your thumb partially covers it. The red arrow is the end which needs to stay up. The small end is the top; not the side with the writing printed on it.
Hi David Thanks for the info ! It’s great help considering I haven’t clue what the insides look like. The only relays I’ve ever seen apart are the newer ones with the round disc inside and know when it breaks you get a rattle. Also thanks for doing the pic of relays orientation. I did notice the “top” marking on the relay casing and made sure to put it back exactly the same way. The MT I’m getting is CA. And yes I did see your post and vids of the CK :-). I’m glad you were able to save it from going to scrap. I can’t stand seeing any vintage appliance going to scrap. I’d save them all if I could.
|
|