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Post by turbokinetic on May 22, 2019 9:47:55 GMT
So we now know that even after only 7 years the dreaded dragons breath is trapped in threads. Oh yeah! I can almost smell that picture LOL!
In the past I've torn down auto A/C compressors from scrap piles that had trapped refrigerant under the bolts. One had been sitting in an abandoned farm headquarters building for about 10 years and still gave a puff when the bolts were taken out!
It's interesting how the black residue clings to the parts yet the oil stays perfectly clear.
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Post by coldspaces on May 31, 2019 3:50:30 GMT
Ok here are some more of the tear down pics. Edit: this is the unloader valve, should have checked my facts before posting. Pics of the unloader valve bore. Bottom plate freshly removed. It's mate above.
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Post by ckfan on May 31, 2019 11:32:17 GMT
That is so cool to see the deep internals of a DR. Great work as always.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 31, 2019 12:18:17 GMT
Ok here are some more of the tear down pics. The suction check valve that gave so much trouble. I know that this is the piece that gave the most grief after the rewind. To me it looks like John decided that it was out of round at the top end. Looks like he used a lath to fix it to me? It has been good since this was done if I remember right so I think should be good to reuse. Garrett has a spare though. Pics of the check valve bore. Bottom plate freshly removed. It's mate above.
Very cool compressor design! It seems to have quite a few sliding surfaces, compared to a more conventional design.
As for the suction check valve, if it's been working, why mess with it? You're probably on the right track putting it back as-is.
Thanks again for sharing it with us. Sincerely, David
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Post by coldspaces on Jun 2, 2019 15:58:41 GMT
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Post by turbokinetic on Jun 2, 2019 16:11:12 GMT
Wow, looks like a few little beads of solidified copper made their way into the compressor.
Otherwise it looks pretty serviceable!
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Post by coldspaces on Jun 9, 2019 15:15:28 GMT
I have been trying to get the parts cleaned for this compressor. I bought a HF ultrasonic cleaned and have been cleaning everything that will fit. It is heater to 140 F. Procedure for these smaller parts has been clean part, rinse in hot tap water, immediately dry with mini torch or hair drier. After drying parts go in a new zip lock bag with new 3GS oil to coat them till assembly. As you all know everything pretty much has some black crud.I started with the oil strainer.
I removed the head and valve assembly. Sure are cleaner!
Now here is the real suction check valve plunger, I mistakenly called the unload-er the suction check valve in my earlier post that's been edited.
Sorry these next two pics are stranded on my cameras internal memory, I have no cord for it,had to take a pic of camera screen. Here is the base before I clean it. Not sure what the white sealer was at the suction line entry. It was sure not lead as it was rubbery.
Here it is after pressure washing and drying. Not as clean as I wanted yet. For some reason the lead seal for the dome either had a thin layer of white corrosion (looked to smooth for that) or it was white paint? As you can see I removed the springs and there was still oil in the holes.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jun 9, 2019 23:38:35 GMT
Hi Gill. Yes, those HF sonic cleaners are great to have! I've owned one for years and it's been a life-saver for restoring small parts. I loaned out and never got back my last one. Bought a new one recently. The new model has a temperature control (heating) function and a plastic basket. I have to warn you, the temperature control will fail if the level of solution in the tank gets low. The sensor is on the opposite side as the heating element. Once the level of solution gets too low, it will boil dry and the side where the heater is will set fire to the plastic tray before the temp sensor on the other side senses the heat. The worst part is, the temperature control will turn on by its self if any moisture gets down around the buttons. Just be sure to unplug it when not using it. I had a smoke-filled shop because of this. The parts look great! That oil screen will flow like the day it was made, as clean as that is.
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Post by coldspaces on Jun 10, 2019 0:36:03 GMT
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Post by turbokinetic on Jun 10, 2019 10:42:03 GMT
Here the base is after blasting it, good blow off with air and then a good flush with break clean. Heated it with hair drier and its now oiled up in a new bag. I stayed away from the glass ends in the terminals and the threads when blasting. I have some worn coal slag "Black beauty" in my blast cabinet. I was able to blast all the white off of the lead dome seal in the grove and clean up the seal at the suction line. It did a good job and did not tear up the lead. This part I cleaned outdoors Saturday in gasoline (didn't want any water in the bearings). It was rather windy so I was pretty safe. I scrubbed the rotor with a Scotch Brite pad and then cleaned it all with a small hand wire brush. After I got all I could it was all flushed with brake clean good. I would love to remove the rotor and disassemble further but you can't just press the crank out of the rotor. There is a thrust washer under the rotor I damaged on Tavis's DR when I did this. The rotor would need to be pulled off with a custom puller that pulls from more than just the edge. It was decided before tear down the we were not going any father than this. Overall this part was cleaner than most the rest to start with and is now pretty clean. I had to put on rubber gloves and help smear oil all over this but I got it oiled and in a bag waiting. Just a few more parts to clean now!
The black beauty blast media did a very good job! I've never used that in my blast cabinet, for worry that the granules would be too large and might not flow through the system. Probably I thought this because the only places I've seen it were industrial sites where they were using larger grit sizes.
Definitely was wise not to try to remove the shaft from the rotor. When I did the full tear-down of the CA compressor, I did remove the rotor. You probably saw the pictures of that. Knowing I wasn't planning to re-use it, I just applied a jaw-puller to it. The results were as expected, with massive damage to the rotor at the edge.
Won't be long this machine will be back in action. Love seeing the bits and pieces get refurbished. Makes me miss my projects and want to get home to tinker with them now!
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Post by coldspaces on Jun 16, 2019 22:42:21 GMT
At Garrett's request I took a better look at the copper rotor. I had no idea that the ends of the copper bars are soldered to it. He has experience were a old fan had a dead spot were it wouldn't start. He traced it back to a poor solder joint at one of the bars in the rotor. From what I can see after a good wire wheeling with the Dremel and using a magnifying glass we are in good shape still on this one. The wife picked me up some really large zip lock bags. Hope to start reassembling this soon inside of one. The base turns out to need a bit more blasting first. I didn't get all the rust from behind the terminals, looked good but it came back some after sitting even though it was oiled.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jun 16, 2019 23:27:49 GMT
Very cool. It's good that you checked the rotor bars, too. In the antiques circles, as Garrett found out; these have been known to have problems after 50 or more years. I don't have access at the moment to share pictures; but I have a 1918 Allis-Chalmers electric motor with a 100 pound (or more) rotor in it made this way. The bars protrude beyond the ends of the rotor and help form a fan of sorts. www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fijD5KasKU
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Post by elec573 on Jun 18, 2019 5:18:02 GMT
Thanks for sharing what you found!! Very nice work and thanks for the pictures. How is it your pictures are on the site even though we are out of storage space? Are you hosting on your own server and then sharing?
was it discovered what actually the failure was ?
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 18, 2019 3:18:32 GMT
I have been finding some time for this but not enough. Finding time to post this is even more of a challenge right now. After more cleaning and flushing of the suction line and the check valve bore I finally stated to reassemble this a few weeks ago. Here is the bottom all buttoned up. Lead gasket I made to add to what was still there. This were the suction line goes through the base. The lock plates for the mounting nuts had been used too many time so I made new ones.
Got the windings back on! After assembling it had to set and wait in the big Zip Lock bag. I had an open drier in there to keep things dry. The dome had been sitting with CF20 in the condenser coil for a while. I flushed it out good and then wire wheeled the inside of the dome. After a finally flushing it got sealed shut with plastic wrap and rubber plugs on/in the lines. Then I had to keep worrying that I wouldn't forget the plug up inside the dome before I put the dome on lol Now if I can just find time to upload a few short videos from last Sunday. Shoot there still on the camera.
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 18, 2019 5:03:28 GMT
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