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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 7, 2019 3:51:53 GMT
I finally got all the materials to put more flexible leads on the stator.
Hey that looks good! Glad you've got the materials to complete this one.
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Post by birkie on Mar 7, 2019 13:56:35 GMT
I finally got all the materials to put more flexible leads on the stator. Out of curiosity, what is the insulating material? It looks white and woven in the photos. It just slips over the flexible braided wire you soldered to the pre-existing leads? I'm trying to understand the geometry of the whole thing. Here is a picture of this machine (at least, I think it's this machine) from a few years ago back when the teflon windings were just installed: Presumably, the part of the stator that faces "up" is the the wider face - the one on the left of the above photo. The leads come off the "bottom" Assembled in its frame, the leads run from the bottom of the stator, and exit through a little metal tube/orifice as shown here: .. or even better, here: So does that mean in the pictures you posed, we're looking at the "bottom" of the stator where the leads come out, and you're doubling it back on itself so they exit somewhere in the vicinity of the little hole?
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Post by coldspaces on Mar 7, 2019 18:53:36 GMT
The motor shop that did the rewind marked the location of the leads with an X. I needed to have the new leads end up in that same location so it can line up. It should be able to go back the same as it was I hope. The sleeveing came from the shop the did the rewind. Its the same material they used when they did the rewind. It is approved for hermetic applications, I believe its polyester.
They wingdings were dipped is my understanding, most likely in Pre catalyzed polyester resin. Its the industry standard dip for hermetic applications.
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Post by ckfan on Mar 7, 2019 19:01:43 GMT
Oh man! This is exciting!
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Post by birkie on Mar 8, 2019 12:31:46 GMT
The motor shop that did the rewind marked the location of the leads with an X. I needed to have the new leads end up in that same location so it can line up. It should be able to go back the same as it was I hope. The sleeveing came from the shop the did the rewind. Its the same material they used when they did the rewind. It is approved for hermetic applications, I believe its polyester. They wingdings were dipped is my understanding, most likely in Pre catalyzed polyester resin. Its the industry standard dip for hermetic applications. Ah, cool. Polyester is excellent in terms of chemical compatibility. Out of curiosity, was the same technique (with a woven insulating sleeve and finely stranded wire) used on the original rewind you saw when you opened this up? Oh man! This is exciting! It is!
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Post by coldspaces on Mar 9, 2019 4:03:45 GMT
birkie, when I took this one part it did not have original wiring. Also the leads should not be pinched tight in the retainer at the bottom of the compressor. The tabs will be reformed into loose fitting loops to hold the three leads.
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Post by birkie on Mar 9, 2019 13:32:14 GMT
birkie, when I took this one part it did not have original wiring. Also the leads should not be pinched tight in the retainer at the bottom of the compressor. The tabs will be reformed into loose fitting loops to hold the three leads. Oh, right. I was just wondering if John had used the the same sleeve + finely stranded wire technique, and that's what we're seeing in the above photo taken when you first opened the machine. It's nice seeing how the rebuilding techniques evolve. I agree about avoiding pinching the leads. Originally from the factory, the leads would have been loosely held in place by a loop of string tied to the suction line that coils around the compressor, right?
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Post by coldspaces on May 20, 2019 4:14:08 GMT
After too long a winter at work and too long a search for a gallon of hermetic winding dip it was decided that it wasn't necessary. Even though the catalogs still list 1 and 5 gallon containers of the dip no one I called stocks less than a 55 gallon drum. 1 gallon is obsolete and 5 gallons was at $60 per gallon and one month lead time. Since the windings are dipped and baked to lock them we don't see a real need to dip just the new leads and tie cord. I originally wanted to dip the new leads but its not cost realistic. It would have sealed the fiberglass ends of the sleeving and the tie cord if I could have found some. I also checked with multiple rewinding places. They all said no to dipping a hermetic. I did realize I could cuff the ends of the sleeving and untied the cord to do so. Here's a sample of the cuffed end. Here it is after all ends are cuffed and it's retied. After I am sure the new leads will not hit anything during reassembly I will cauterized the ends of the tie cord to prevent it from ever coming untied.
I am in the middle of preparations for Zorro's Birthday party www.facebook.com/events/2522848374668461/ so I apologize if I can't find time to post pics fast enough this week. But I disassembled the compressor last night and have everything sealed in bags till I can clean it. The main thing now is to not have things rust before or after cleaning them.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 20, 2019 9:33:30 GMT
After too long a winter at work and too long a search for a gallon of heretic winding dip it was decided that it wasn't necessary. Even though the catalogs still list 1 and 5 gallon containers of the dip no one I called stocks less than a 55 gallon drum. 1 gallon is obsolete and 5 gallons was at $60 per gallon and one month lead time. Since the windings are dipped and baked to lock them we don't see a real need to dip just the new leads and tie cord. I originally wanted to dip the new leads but its not cost realistic. It would have sealed the fiberglass ends of the sleeving and the tie cord if I could have found some. I also checked with multiple rewinding places. They all said no to dipping a hermetic. I did realize I could cuff the ends of the sleeving and untied the cord to do so. Here's a sample of the cuffed end. Here it is after all ends are cuffed and it's retied. After I am sure the new leads will not hit anything during reassembly I will cauterized the ends of the tie cord to prevent it from ever coming untied.
I am in the middle of preparations for Zorro's Birthday party www.facebook.com/events/2522848374668461/ so I apologize if I can't find time to post pics fast enough this week. But I disassembled the compressor last night and have everything sealed in bags till I can clean it. The main thing now is to not have things rust before or after cleaning them.
As always, it's great to see a project making progress! It is, however, frustrating that you weren't able to locate a cost-effective dipping solution for the new lead-wires. But, in the end, it looks like the job done is more than good enough without it.
Interesting about Zorro's 100th birthday! Of course, you have to serve the refreshments from this: DSC00583 on Flickr
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Post by ckfan on May 20, 2019 10:32:40 GMT
Gill, as always, you are awesome. I’m glad to see progress on this machine! The cuff job looks nice. Now I just need to get you to cuff my pants that are always too long.
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Post by turbokinetic on May 20, 2019 11:38:02 GMT
Gill, as always, you are awesome. I’m glad to see progress on this machine! The cuff job looks nice. Now I just need to get you to cuff my pants that are always too long. As much as I love doing projects; it's always great to learn from others projects. Thankful to get to see this one come together! That's how we learn and grow our knowledge on these machines.
As for your pants, if Gill can't get to them in a timely manner.... you can just use the Jeff Foxworthy method.... Simply walk the excess length off of them. I can offer that this method is most effective when walking at a brisk pace on broomed concrete surfaces!
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Post by coldspaces on May 20, 2019 12:46:23 GMT
I hadn't thought about taking the Globe top but might if I have time.
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Post by birkie on May 21, 2019 2:40:05 GMT
I disassembled the compressor last night and have everything sealed in bags till I can clean it. The main thing now is to not have things rust before or after cleaning them. Nice! How to the parts look in terms of cleanliness? Presumably, the parts were cleaned prior to assembly when it was rebuilt a few years ago. Did carbon deposits build up in the intervening years? I too hope the ball top's alter-ego appears at the zorro celebration
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Post by coldspaces on May 22, 2019 4:04:51 GMT
I disassembled the compressor last night and have everything sealed in bags till I can clean it. The main thing now is to not have things rust before or after cleaning them. Nice! How to the parts look in terms of cleanliness? Presumably, the parts were cleaned prior to assembly when it was rebuilt a few years ago. Did carbon deposits build up in the intervening years? I too hope the ball top's alter-ego appears at the zorro celebration I don't think its was all disassembled in the past. We know the windings were removed and the suction check valve twice. I don't think I remember that it was all taken apart. All the parts need cleaned, they all look black.
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Post by coldspaces on May 22, 2019 4:30:45 GMT
So we now know that even after only 7 years the dreaded dragons breath is trapped in threads. After you get your DR to this point it is possible to remove the suction line assembly with the unload-er tubing attached. Just takes some finagling of the suction tube to get it over things. Sorry this one of the tubing assembly is blurred. You can see it comes off in one piece if careful.
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