|
Post by turbokinetic on Oct 20, 2018 4:41:52 GMT
Those stators look great! Lots of cold drinks to be made in the next decades!
|
|
|
Post by birkie on Oct 20, 2018 17:42:24 GMT
Does the winding job compare favorably to other stators you've seen? It does look great from the photos.
It'll be interesting to see what is in the DR35's evaporators when you start tackling those.
|
|
|
Post by elec573 on Oct 20, 2018 20:29:13 GMT
Did you use the same place as joneske did in California for the stators ?
|
|
|
Post by Travis on Oct 20, 2018 20:39:42 GMT
These were done in PA. I wanted to try another shop.
|
|
|
Post by 2030vision on Oct 20, 2018 21:51:32 GMT
since I am a little gun-shy about the leads, are these comparable with the oil being used? the last ones deteriorated in the oil. Also is the stand count high enough to survive the flexing/
|
|
|
Post by birkie on Oct 21, 2018 13:52:39 GMT
the last ones deteriorated in the oil. Huh, that's interesting. Did that happen with the last rebuild, or one prior to that?
|
|
|
Post by Travis on Oct 21, 2018 14:08:09 GMT
They were told this was a hermetic compressor application and should be compatible with the oil. The flexibility might be an issue. They were also told about this. I went so far as to send pictures and tell them.
|
|
|
Post by csulaguy on Oct 23, 2018 5:30:07 GMT
Now I get to start following this thread even closer. I picked up another DR today for $50 (along with the original DR1 in San Fransisco for $20). It appears I got a DR3 as well. Haven't yet plugged it in nor checked resistance for the oil conditioner yet. It has two pig type evaps, and what appears to be the larger 9 cu ft porcelain cabinet.
|
|
|
Post by Travis on Oct 23, 2018 14:21:32 GMT
Paul,
A double evaporator DR should be on a multi-door cabinet. Be extra nice to it or you’ll be rebuilding it, even if it now works.
|
|
|
Post by csulaguy on Nov 3, 2018 20:56:20 GMT
Paul, A double evaporator DR should be on a multi-door cabinet. Be extra nice to it or you’ll be rebuilding it, even if it now works. I still haven't actually powered it on. I need to figure out how the controls work, so I can somehow wire it up without the controls (it's missing a few things, so nothing happens at all when power is applied, because it's not going anywhere). Also, is it possible my unit could be rebuilt? Finally got to see what's on the builder's plate. There's no black background, and what little I could see before removing paint, it was just a solid aluminum tag without any writing. All that's on there is DR3 R16, 13.00 which is obviously how much SO2 is in it, 110 and 60 (pretty obvious). Serial tag say 44-943-840, surrounded by a black enamel trim. I took a picture and sent it to David via facebook, so he's already seen it.
|
|
|
Post by Travis on Nov 4, 2018 2:38:28 GMT
It’s a rebuild from 44. The only way I’d power it up without the control is with a compressor annie. I’d also buy a pair of capacitors to replace the block until it has been rebuilt.
Yes, it can be rebuilt, but that’s a big job and fairly expensive.
I’d check your motor with a meter first and also verify it’s not grounded. DR’s love to have bad windings.
|
|
|
Post by csulaguy on Nov 6, 2018 22:56:57 GMT
It’s a rebuild from 44. The only way I’d power it up without the control is with a compressor annie. I’d also buy a pair of capacitors to replace the block until it has been rebuilt. Yes, it can be rebuilt, but that’s a big job and fairly expensive. I’d check your motor with a meter first and also verify it’s not grounded. DR’s love to have bad windings. In theory, if the controls are in better shape on the DR2 I'm about to pick up tomorrow, could I use that (and disconnect the DR2 wires after duly noting their positions on the control), just to see if it works? And does a 44 rebuild imply a better chance that it might still work?
|
|
|
Post by birkie on Nov 7, 2018 0:33:29 GMT
In theory, if the controls are in better shape on the DR2 I'm about to pick up tomorrow, could I use that (and disconnect the DR2 wires after duly noting their positions on the control), just to see if it works? And does a 44 rebuild imply a better chance that it might still work? The controls differ significantly in the starting circuit. Using the DR2 control would be almost equivalent to the section of the manual I sent you that shows how to bypass the capacitor. It would start the motor, but it would need to be stopped shortly thereafter, as it is not designed to run without a capacitor in line with the start windings. Might I suggest starting a new thread for your machine? Then you can post the resistance measurements of the windings there, and post pictures (or send them to me, and I can host the on flickr) while people help diagnose it. It's also possible the DR2 control has a small part in it that could get your existing DR3 control working. So posting some pics in a new thread could be quite helpful.
|
|
|
Post by csulaguy on Nov 7, 2018 1:40:11 GMT
In theory, if the controls are in better shape on the DR2 I'm about to pick up tomorrow, could I use that (and disconnect the DR2 wires after duly noting their positions on the control), just to see if it works? And does a 44 rebuild imply a better chance that it might still work? The controls differ significantly in the starting circuit. Using the DR2 control would be almost equivalent to the section of the manual I sent you that shows how to bypass the capacitor. It would start the motor, but it would need to be stopped shortly thereafter, as it is not designed to run without a capacitor in line with the start windings. Might I suggest starting a new thread for your machine? Then you can post the resistance measurements of the windings there, and post pictures (or send them to me, and I can host the on flickr) while people help diagnose it. It's also possible the DR2 control has a small part in it that could get your existing DR3 control working. So posting some pics in a new thread could be quite helpful. Yes sir Aaron, I'll do that when I get home. Lucky for me, I have my macro lens still attached to my camera, to get extra details on my broken control. And good point about the capacitor; I totally forgot abou thtat part!
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Mar 7, 2019 3:23:09 GMT
I finally got all the materials to put more flexible leads on the stator. Found it helpful to hold things together with a small wire tie till I got the wire wrapped around the splice. Soldered now.
I of course made the splices at three different places along the leads so they did not overlap each other. Here I am putting on the insulation.
The stator was marked where the leads should end. I didn't want to untie the leads the motor shop did and dipped and baked in place. So I first tried to bring the leads all the way around the stator. Didn't like how much that covered the top of the windings though. I ended up doubling them back and have this now. Big question now maybe do we need to re dip and bake to seal the new insulation good so it can't fray off on the ends. Looks like we would have to buy at least 1 gallon of dipping resin or find a motor shop nearby that might do it.
|
|