swolf
New Member
Posts: 21
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Post by swolf on Oct 11, 2017 0:54:32 GMT
Hi All, I've been looking for a DR for a while and finally found one locally. I found your forum and have been trying to get educated on these historic relics (the fridge, not you guys) and could use some help. Pictures: drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_QfA2_WTVwrRVcyQ194RWNZVkEUnit kicks on and goes down to 32 degrees with control in center position. I plan to restore it completely so what must be replaced to ensure safety and longevity? No one else could feel it but a friend's son said he felt a slight tingle when touching the top corner where some porcelain was chipped off. Requests: 1) I need some shelves 2) My latch looks like it is missing a part. If so, I need that part. 3) Does anyone have a paint code that is closest to original? 4) Does anyone make a replace "rebuilt" decal like on the back of mine. 5) Any information one can provide on year of manufacture? Thanks in advance, Steve
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Post by ckfan on Oct 11, 2017 1:19:18 GMT
Hi All, I've been looking for a DR for a while and finally found one locally. I found your forum and have been trying to get educated on these historic relics (the fridge, not you guys) and could use some help. Pictures: drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_QfA2_WTVwrRVcyQ194RWNZVkEUnit kicks on and goes down to 32 degrees with control in center position. I plan to restore it completely so what must be replaced to ensure safety and longevity? No one else could feel it but a friend's son said he felt a slight tingle when touching the top corner where some porcelain was chipped off. Requests: 1) I need some shelves 2) My latch looks like it is missing a part. If so, I need that part. 3) Does anyone have a paint code that is closest to original? 4) Does anyone make a replace "rebuilt" decal like on the back of mine. 5) Any information one can provide on year of manufacture? Thanks in advance, Steve Hi there! Welcome to the forum. That is a nice DR1 you have there. As you mentioned it is a rebuilt model which is good. It gives you a better fighting chance of it working. Your model would have originally been a DR-1-A16 built in 1929. It was rebuilt in 1944 according to the tag below the data plate. GE rebuilt a lot of these machines. I myself have a CA that was rebuilt and it works great. This is only the second form A that I have seen. You can tell its a form A by the round evaporator. Later models like mine have a more rectangular evaporator. Here are some things to look out for. First off, check the heater. These have a crankcase heater that is important. Without it the unit will rattle when cold and could cause damage over time. You can check to see if the heater is working by using an ohm meter. With the unit unplugged and turned off, probe the prongs. You should get a reading of approx. 900 ohms. If you get an infinite reading you have a dead heater. We can help you find one. Also, check the gasket between the top and the cabinet. It should make a nice tight seal. We have a source for a replacement. Ditto for the door seal. Another good thing to do is to take a look at the lines going to and from the evaporator. If they are rusty, they most likely are, they need to be treated and coated to prevent a leak. As far as the slight shock is concerned...let's hope that it is a bare wire somewhere and not a slightly shorted motor. One way to check the health of the motor is to take ohm readings of the winnings. Finding shelves is going to be difficult. Almost everyone needs them. Knowing a welder isn't a bad thing. Your latch looks to be correct. That is what it should look like unless I'm missing something. I'm not sure what the "correct" color is. It's so hard to say after all these yellowed years. Maybe someone has a better answer. I don't think anyone makes a reproduction decal for the rebuilt models. There simply isn't enough demand for it. However, we have made decals in the past that relate to these machines. Honestly though you've already won the war since you have a unit that cycles. That is great. These DR1s are great little machines. Probably the most reliable DR. Not to say that they don't have issues but for yours to work after all these years is a testament. Don't worry, we can help you get it sorted out. It's a lot to take in at once. That is what we are here for.
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Post by birkie on Oct 11, 2017 1:37:15 GMT
Hi All, I've been looking for a DR for a while and finally found one locally. I found your forum and have been trying to get educated on these historic relics (the fridge, not you guys) and could use some help. Hi Steve, Congrats on finding that DR1! I'm relatively new to DRs (though have three now, in various states of repair). I type very slow, ckfan gave a great answer in the meantime. Anyway, here was my attempt at answering some of your questions: 1) Somebody might have one if you're lucky, but be prepared to have new ones fabricated. Shelves on the DRs in particular seem to go missing 2) I couldn't see anything obviously missing in the photo. Does it work OK? 3) I haven't painted any of mine yet, so i'm not sure. I know some members have colour matched against porcelain; but your cabinet is not porcelain 4) Seek out joneske who has made replacement decals for various machines. I don't know about the rebuild sticker in particular 5) It started its life as a form "A" machine, which I believe was made from 1929 into 1930. These machines have the oval evaporator, designed for two stacked ice trays. It looks like it was rebuilt in 1944. Also, reflecting on the tingle felt from touching the metal, an electrically hot DR1 is not unprecedented. My DR1 has only 80k resistance from the windings to the shell, which is about 1.5mA leakage. OK, but not stellar. Compare that to my other DRs that are in the mega-ohm range. I kinda get the feeling the DR1s had thinner cotton insulation on the windings, but who knows. You can get a rough sense of the current leakage by unplugging the machine, turning the control 'on', and measuring the resistance from each of the prongs for the plug to ground. (I unscrew the cap of the float and use the threads or purge screw as ground). The more comprehensive way is to straighten the tube attached to the bellows, lift/remove the control, and measure the resistance at the contacts underneath the control. That way, you can check the individual windings (start to run, start to common, run to common).
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Post by joneske on Oct 11, 2017 14:40:34 GMT
Contact Rob at RS Media. He has made the forum stickers as well as some reproduction decals for me and others on the forum. That decal should be relatively easy for him to recreate, although most of the cost is set up time. If there are others that need the same decal, and there were committments for multiple orders, the cost would go down.
Here is a link to his website with his contract info as well as samples of his work:
rsmediasigns.com
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Post by Travis on Oct 11, 2017 22:17:04 GMT
Cute DR1 for A. I have one also.
You're going to have to watch ebay for parts or a parts refrigerator. You can also have shelves made. Your latch is likely repairable. I can't see its defect.
There are at least three versions of the small FR cabinet. One has an offset top shelf, the other two don't. The first two versions have a shelf with a center support, but the last doesn't.
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swolf
New Member
Posts: 21
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Post by swolf on Oct 12, 2017 3:44:54 GMT
Thanks very much for all the assistance. I ordered some of the McMaster recommended seals but I'm still a long ways from putting it back together. I have "a guy" that can weld me some shelves now that I know that's the best way to go. I will keep you posted throughout the process.
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Post by ckfan on Oct 12, 2017 13:06:35 GMT
Thanks very much for all the assistance. I ordered some of the McMaster recommended seals but I'm still a long ways from putting it back together. I have "a guy" that can weld me some shelves now that I know that's the best way to go. I will keep you posted throughout the process. Excellent! It really is a nice unit. You will find lots of posts in the DR section to help you. If you have questions just ask. BTW, is that an antique stove in your profile picture that I spotted?
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swolf
New Member
Posts: 21
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Post by swolf on Oct 12, 2017 14:44:56 GMT
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Post by elec573 on Oct 12, 2017 16:07:43 GMT
Hi swolf welcom to the forum. Before you go too crazy on ordering parts I would run it for a few days and make sure it's not going to die on you . Drs can be finicky things . Did an extensive post on a dr I have with shorted windings it should help with some of your questions.
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Post by birkie on Oct 12, 2017 17:00:27 GMT
Hi swolf welcom to the forum. Before you go too crazy on ordering parts I would run it for a few days and make sure it's not going to die on you . Drs can be finicky things . Did an extensive post on a dr I have with shorted windings it should help with some of your questions. Is this it? monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/943/d2-a16
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Post by ckfan on Oct 12, 2017 23:43:16 GMT
That's a picture from Walt Disney World's Carousel of Progress. Ah, very cool! At first glance I figured it was your DR1.
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Post by Travis on Oct 13, 2017 1:10:05 GMT
I loved the Carousel of Progress to an unnatural degree.
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Post by elec573 on Oct 13, 2017 5:01:26 GMT
Yes Birkie that's it it's still setting in my garage. It was my first dr experience. Learned a lot through that dr . Wish someone was close with refrigeration experience I would let them play with it . It's still has its charge of so2 .
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Post by ckfan on Oct 13, 2017 13:16:38 GMT
I loved the Carousel of Progress to an unnatural degree. I wanna see it!
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Post by Travis on Oct 13, 2017 22:14:08 GMT
You have to go to Disney World and wait in line
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