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Post by Travis on Nov 30, 2016 17:39:43 GMT
When you get the fridge, post a better picture of the interior and give me the measurements of the shelf and I will try to find a shelf.
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Post by antiquitarian on Nov 30, 2016 19:17:59 GMT
When you get the fridge, post a better picture of the interior and give me the measurements of the shelf and I will try to find a shelf. Will do. Thanks.
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Post by cablehack on Nov 30, 2016 22:22:47 GMT
You might be interested in this site www.kouba-cavallo.com/cgi-bin/refrigsearch.exe?type=0&brand=74&model=It shows the 1940-1941 GE Flat Top has the least power usage compared to all the other models listed. In fact some of the modern ones listed with the same or smaller cabinet size use more than twice the power. So much for new being better.
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Post by antiquitarian on Nov 30, 2016 22:25:42 GMT
You might be interested in this site www.kouba-cavallo.com/cgi-bin/refrigsearch.exe?type=0&brand=74&model=It shows the 1940-1941 GE Flat Top has the least power usage compared to all the other models listed. In fact some of the modern ones listed with the same or smaller cabinet size use more than twice the power. So much for new being better. I can't wait to show this to my wife, Mrs. EPA.
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Post by antiquitarian on Dec 1, 2016 18:57:25 GMT
Can someone suggest a good product for touching up spots where the white porcelain enamel has worn away and revealed a black color, like for example the spot in the first picture at the bottom right edge of the door near the "deluxe" insignia? Thanks.
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Post by elec573 on Dec 2, 2016 5:17:41 GMT
Please post some pitchers when you can would like to see this beautie !!!!
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Post by stlvortac on Dec 4, 2016 20:11:36 GMT
As coldspaces mentioned, my wiring for the light and door switch was like new. I cut off a few inches, re stripped it and put on new twist caps.
This link to the service manual has wiring diagrams for all the models. members.iinet.net.au/~cool386/ge_service/ge_service.html
The only difficult part is tipping the fridge on its side to re-wire the compressor and fitting all the wires back into the type-r relay to make it look stock. After tipping mine I noticed degraded performance(longer on cycles, short off cycles), turns out I had oil in the evaporator. Its easily remedied by heating the evaporator up with a pan of hot water then turn the fridge on and let it freeze the pan.
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Post by antiquitarian on Dec 5, 2016 1:14:12 GMT
It's here! Just gave it a nice cleaning and it's running like a charm (its door thermostat is already in the "safe" zone). I pulled out the lower cabinet to have a look at the compressor, and that's where I found the real surprise. Aside from being caked with dust, the insulation on the wires is impeccable (not a single crack on them!) I expected them to be a brittled mess. I didn't peek inside the relay (not sure how to get in there), but I imagine the connections are secure. Indeed the ONLY issue I can find at the moment is that the power cord is an absolute mess (lots of cracked insulation and electrical tape), so I'll need to replace that asap.
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Post by antiquitarian on Dec 5, 2016 1:17:41 GMT
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Post by coldspaces on Dec 5, 2016 2:20:27 GMT
That looks great. It has the bottom automotive grill looking kick plate like or similar to the Hotpoint I have in storage. Unfortunately the rest of the wiring outside the cabinet will probably be as bad as the cord if you try to move it to replace the cord.
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Post by antiquitarian on Dec 5, 2016 3:39:20 GMT
That looks great. It has the bottom automotive grill looking kick plate like or similar to the Hotpoint I have in storage. Unfortunately the rest of the wiring outside the cabinet will probably be as bad as the cord if you try to move it to replace the cord. Can't I just cut the power cord near the compressor and crimp a new 3-pronged power cable to it? The rest of the wiring (aside from the power cord) outside the cabinet looks fine.
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Post by coldspaces on Dec 5, 2016 3:46:32 GMT
That looks great. It has the bottom automotive grill looking kick plate like or similar to the Hotpoint I have in storage. Unfortunately the rest of the wiring outside the cabinet will probably be as bad as the cord if you try to move it to replace the cord. Can't I just cut the power cord near the compressor and crimp a new 3-pronged power cable to it? The rest of the wiring (aside from the power cord) outside the cabinet looks fine. You can try and might get lucky but normally the old rubber insulation is bad. Yours might have survived in a better environment than most, who knows. It does look like it was well cared for.
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Post by elec573 on Dec 5, 2016 5:05:57 GMT
Its looks beautiful on the inside is that a chiller tray supendend in the middle ? Wow !!! as far as wiring there's a simple test if you bend it 90 dregrees does it crack?? By campairson get a lamp cord or something simeler and do same test you well know right away !
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Post by antiquitarian on Dec 5, 2016 15:48:48 GMT
Its looks beautiful on the inside is that a chiller tray supendend in the middle ? Wow !!! as far as wiring there's a simple test if you bend it 90 dregrees does it crack?? By campairson get a lamp cord or something simeler and do same test you well know right away ! Doesn't crack. Perhaps it underwent a re-wire at some point? The guy I bought it from owns an appliance repair shop that's been with his family for three generations. And yes that is the original GE Chiller tray inside. Oh, I also forgot to mention something kind of bizarre: there's a removable piece of plastic that attaches to the door latch that, when removed, prevents the door from opening. My best guess is a child-proof lock: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refrigerator_deathI'll be replacing the power cord tonight
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Post by antiquitarian on Dec 6, 2016 1:40:46 GMT
When you get the fridge, post a better picture of the interior and give me the measurements of the shelf and I will try to find a shelf. Hi Travis, The measurements for the shelf (basing this off the one shelf I do have) Width: 14 3/4" Depth: 22 1/4" Hope you have something I can use!
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