|
D2-A16
Dec 16, 2016 6:49:35 GMT
Post by Travis on Dec 16, 2016 6:49:35 GMT
Herb, Here is a better picture of the terminal strip and one showing the wiring diagram of the unit. You don't have a bad winding, you have a grounded motor. I was always told that if you measured the resistance on the three terminals, the highest pair is the run to start. The next highest is the common to start. The lowest is the common to run. What continues to baffle me is that your readings have changed drastically from where you started. Attachments:
|
|
|
D2-A16
Dec 17, 2016 1:46:38 GMT
Post by elec573 on Dec 17, 2016 1:46:38 GMT
Ok Travis thanks your pitcher is much better than mine ! I downloaded it from this site and some are hard to read . The common is easy it's in the middle but run and start are different ! On bottom of motor
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Dec 17, 2016 3:40:28 GMT
I was sure I could find a pic of what winding was what in the thread on Travis's DR3 rebuild. After a extensive search though pics it dawned on me to look at the ones from the Seized DR2 I tried to save. Here it is, Red is run, white is start and black is com.
|
|
|
D2-A16
Dec 17, 2016 18:34:51 GMT
Post by elec573 on Dec 17, 2016 18:34:51 GMT
Thanks coldspaces ,that settles it they were on right on the control ! But when hooked up that way it still did nothing even with everything isolated ! By the way what is the little screw in plug for on the bottom ? And this unit still has a charge in it put 500watt Quartz light under evap and could really here so2 moving around ! Could unit be locked up read some where in forum about hitting it with 220 volts ? Don't have any thing to lose at this point .
|
|
|
D2-A16
Dec 18, 2016 22:23:37 GMT
Post by cablehack on Dec 18, 2016 22:23:37 GMT
If it was locked up it will make a loud humming sound and draw lots of current. That is quite different to "nothing" which would indicate an open circuit somewhere.
|
|
|
D2-A16
Dec 18, 2016 23:04:06 GMT
via mobile
ckfan likes this
Post by Travis on Dec 18, 2016 23:04:06 GMT
Why don't you try starting it without the control. Stalled DR's make a hum but they're not that loud. The control is what makes the most noise. A stalled DR2 like what you've got with a short control would sound like an electric engraving tool with the control attached. The start coil makes a god-awful noise.
|
|
|
D2-A16
Dec 19, 2016 5:37:13 GMT
Post by elec573 on Dec 19, 2016 5:37:13 GMT
Ok if I understand you correctly a stalled dr makes a lot of noise either the motor makes a loud humming noise or the control sounds very loud !Mine is doing neither ! The moter is completely quiet and just a faint hum from control ! I we'll put power to it and amp prob it to see if it's even drawing power! Now that I know whitch is the run and start windings for sure . Thanks If I do want to hook it direct do I use the start and common ?
|
|
|
D2-A16
Dec 19, 2016 8:12:09 GMT
via mobile
Post by Travis on Dec 19, 2016 8:12:09 GMT
Your hook power to common and run and you also momentarily touch the start.
|
|
|
D2-A16
Dec 21, 2016 0:17:54 GMT
Post by elec573 on Dec 21, 2016 0:17:54 GMT
Hi everyone played with the dr-a16 a little today here's what I found out ! Used amp probe on it today . On start up . Start. .14 amps Run. 11.5 amps Common. 11.5 amps Took a voltage reading from top of dome to ground with everything isolated ! Ground to case 98 volts
Motor did nothing not so much as a whisper and everything was isolated ! Travis did not try starting it with out control if you think it we'll make a deference I will try it ? Think this one is dead unless someone has another idea to try nothing to lose !!!!
|
|
|
D2-A16
Dec 21, 2016 0:59:42 GMT
Post by tommythecube on Dec 21, 2016 0:59:42 GMT
Run winding is likely grounded. I say this since the greatest current reading is on that winding, the least resistance to ground = highest current. Stuck compressors will usually also have a very high current on the start winding as well until it comes out of the circuit. Things are look bad.
|
|
|
D2-A16
Dec 21, 2016 2:32:58 GMT
via mobile
Post by ckfan on Dec 21, 2016 2:32:58 GMT
At this point it won't hurt to try to start it without the control. I would try it.
|
|
|
Post by coldspaces on Dec 21, 2016 2:39:02 GMT
If the unit is still setting on wood and isolated from ground than the current draw on the run winding is not going to ground. The start relay is not passing any current to the start winding or it would have also been drawing amps. START IT WITH OUT THE CONTROL. Other than the short its windings are about the same resistance as my working 32 My 32 is a DR-2-G16 and the compressor resistance readings are, Common to run 3.1 ohms, Common to start 4 ohms, Run to start 7 ohms. monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/111/post-compressor-winding-resistance
|
|
|
D2-A16
Dec 21, 2016 20:40:22 GMT
Post by elec573 on Dec 21, 2016 20:40:22 GMT
Ok tryed running it without control nothing no noise no hum ! Had amp probe on run wire over 11amps, when I touched start wire to power it dropped to 9amps . But other than that no difference ! Remarks !!!! Also had a 500watt Quartz light under evap to warm it up and a heater in moter .
|
|
|
D2-A16
Dec 21, 2016 20:55:43 GMT
Post by ckfan on Dec 21, 2016 20:55:43 GMT
I would say it is dead. I'll let someone else confirm it though.
|
|
|
D2-A16
Dec 21, 2016 22:02:43 GMT
Post by cablehack on Dec 21, 2016 22:02:43 GMT
140mA through the start winding is rather low.
|
|