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Post by ChrisJ on Aug 25, 2013 13:44:05 GMT
OK so this is driving me nuts. For the CA machine it looks like I need a 1/2" OD to 1/4" OD adapter. On Grainer I see fittings but when they say 1/4" OD 1/8" pipe, I assume its what I need but do they mean OD of the fitting, or of the pipe?  Here is a coupler I'm looking at buying a few of just in case. www.grainger.com/Grainger/NIBCO-Coupling-5P170?BaseItem=5P170 |
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Post by allan on Aug 25, 2013 13:51:19 GMT
OK so this is driving me nuts. For the CA machine it looks like I need a 1/2" OD to 1/4" OD adapter. On Grainer I see fittings but when they say 1/4" OD 1/8" pipe, I assume its what I need but do they mean OD of the fitting, or of the pipe? Here is a coupler I'm looking at buying a few of just in case. www.grainger.com/Grainger/NIBCO-Coupling-5P170?BaseItem=5P170I just looked at the Grainger description and that is a 1/4 inch OD coupling which is correct for our machines. For the Everdure fitting you need their reducing coupling that is 1/2 inch OD by 1/4 inch OD. I will get the Grainger number for you. Do you have the Supco strainer part number? |
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Post by ChrisJ on Aug 25, 2013 13:58:11 GMT
OK so this is driving me nuts. For the CA machine it looks like I need a 1/2" OD to 1/4" OD adapter. On Grainer I see fittings but when they say 1/4" OD 1/8" pipe, I assume its what I need but do they mean OD of the fitting, or of the pipe? Here is a coupler I'm looking at buying a few of just in case. www.grainger.com/Grainger/NIBCO-Coupling-5P170?BaseItem=5P170I just looked at the Grainger description and that is a 1/4 inch OD coupling which is correct for our machines. For the Everdure fitting you need their reducing coupling that is 1/2 inch OD by 1/4 inch OD. I will get the Grainger number for you. Do you have the Supco strainer part number? I ordered two Supco S210 strainers which was the closest I could find to yours. its 1/4" x the smallest cap connection they offered which was still larger than the one we use. That was something else I still don't know, is the strainer 1/4" connection a street connection (same size as tubing) or does it accept tubing. Do I have enough clearance on an A machine to put the strainer straight down or will it hit the cabinet? |
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Post by allan on Aug 25, 2013 14:16:24 GMT
I just looked at the Grainger description and that is a 1/4 inch OD coupling which is correct for our machines. For the Everdure fitting you need their reducing coupling that is 1/2 inch OD by 1/4 inch OD. I will get the Grainger number for you. Do you have the Supco strainer part number? I ordered two Supco S210 strainers which was the closest I could find to yours. its 1/4" x the smallest cap connection they offered which was still larger than the one we use. That was something else I still don't know, is the strainer 1/4" connection a street connection (same size as tubing) or does it accept tubing. Do I have enough clearance on an A machine to put the strainer straight down or will it hit the cabinet? The Grainger part number for the 1/2 OD x 1/4 OD reducing coupling is 1VLL7, and they call it by its ID sizes which is 3/8 x 1/8. The Supco 210 works perfectly even though the cap tube end is slightly larger than the cap, just make sure and push it in until it hits the internal strainer and pull back about 1/4 of an inch. That will insure no solder gets in cap tube. The tube side of the strainer is 1/4 inch OD-female socket. Will post a pic of this assembly fitted to my soup can evap |
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Post by allan on Aug 25, 2013 14:22:20 GMT
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Post by allan on Aug 25, 2013 14:25:28 GMT
Here is my Soup Can Evap ready for reassembly. The Supco strainer will mount to the 1/4 inch line out of the 1/2 by 1/4 reducer via a 1/4 inch 45 degree ell. This will clear all obstacles and protect the delicate cap tube |
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Post by ChrisJ on Aug 25, 2013 14:26:14 GMT
Did you get the soup can finished? Would love to see pics. Was the 210 the strainer you used? I swore you said a 150 but I couldn't find any such thing.
By the way, will a 3/8x3/8 (1/2x1/2 OD) coupler work on the suction line? I can't tell if there is a expanded connection there or not in pictures.
Any idea what the difference between Grainer part 1VLL7 and part 5UGC1 is? Going by descriptions they seem the same though the pictures are different?
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Post by allan on Aug 25, 2013 14:28:22 GMT
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Post by allan on Aug 25, 2013 14:30:21 GMT
Here is the same setup on my CA with everything tucked up out of the way. In this case i used a 1/2 inch 45 degree ell and then a 1/2 by 1/4 inch bushing because that is what i had |
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Post by allan on Aug 25, 2013 14:37:14 GMT
Did you get the soup can finished? Would love to see pics. Was the 210 the strainer you used? I swore you said a 150 but I couldn't find any such thing. By the way, will a 3/8x3/8 (1/2x1/2 OD) coupler work on the suction line? I can't tell if there is a expanded connection there or not in pictures. Any idea what the difference between Grainer part 1VLL7 and part 5UGC1 is? Going by descriptions they seem the same though the pictures are different? Soup can is in paint mode. I use the Supco 210 and 150 is the mesh size of the internal strainer. 1/2 OD coupler is good for the evap although sometimes that tube is deformed in the cut area and requires a little extra attention. Grainger parts are the same physically just different manufacturer |
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Post by ChrisJ on Aug 25, 2013 14:40:28 GMT
Thank you for the help. Hopefully I can get these last few parts and then get the project going next weekend.
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Post by allan on Aug 25, 2013 16:11:19 GMT
Thank you for the help. Hopefully I can get these last few parts and then get the project going next weekend. You are welcome. Pay attention to how you attach cap tube to evap. These two projects have a 1/4 inch tube over the cap tube to protect it, and the ends of the 1/4 tube are internally soldered shut. The cap tube end is actually about 3/4 of an inch inside the header. I was concerned that if the cap tube end was in the feed tube then it would defrost on every off cycle and cause a nuisance water drip. |
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Post by ChrisJ on Aug 25, 2013 16:20:49 GMT
That will be difficult as I only have 15% brazing rod so I need to stay away from the stainless.
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Post by allan on Aug 25, 2013 16:59:32 GMT
That will be difficult as I only have 15% brazing rod so I need to stay away from the stainless. Ok. So if you want to do copper to copper only, lightly pressurize with about 5 psi nitrogen and cut tube about 1 and 1/2 inch from header with your dremel tool. Don't cut all the way through the 1/4 inch tube just deeply score then snap it off, which makes a nice clean full opening cut. The nitrogen will keep all grindings out of the insides if you slightly slip and score a little too deep. Insert cap into 1/4 inch tube so it protrudes into header about 3/4 inch and sil-phos joint. |
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Post by ChrisJ on Aug 25, 2013 17:28:19 GMT
Ah use the dremel to cut tubing. I did't think of that!
There is my answer for cutting the cap tube also.
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