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Post by timeswelding on Jun 8, 2015 12:09:47 GMT
The fit of the heater in the well is important for two reasons. First, a snug fit will ensure that the heat transfers to the compressor and the oil. Secondly, it will prolong the life of the heater. Oddly enough, one of the most common reasons of failure of cartridge heaters is heat. The better the fit, the more heat is pulled away from the heater and the cooler it stays. The brass sleeve is an excellent idea.
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Post by ChrisJ on Jun 8, 2015 14:00:13 GMT
I really have to wonder, is a 12 or 15 watt heater really at risk for failing due to poor contact?
I say this because you can buy a 100 to 200 watt heater in the same package size and I suspect they run a bit hotter even with good contact.
The reason we have so much trouble finding heaters is because most of them this size are huge wattages.
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Post by andrewk on Aug 20, 2015 20:38:05 GMT
I keep noticing many of you are using thermal compound on your heaters to increase heat transfer. I'm not sure what type you're using, but many commonly available compounds used on electronics do not handle sustained temperatures over 130'c without breaking down. If it's made for a computer processor, it definitely won't hold up. Arctic Silver Ceramique for example craps out at around 120'c. The same goes for Arctic Silver 5, and Alumina. Also, silicone is a terrible heat conductor. Yes, I understand that it's used in many heatsink compounds and thermal pads but only as a medium for the actual ingredients that conduct heat. The key thing here is to find a product that not only handles high heat, but is good at conducting heat AND is electrically insulating at the same time. You want it to be electrically insulating so a bad heater doesn't end up electrifying the entire monitor top and shocking the crap out of you. I've only found a couple products that fit these requirements. Here they are: BNS Anti-Seize Cartridge Heater Coating
SafeKote 60 is another product I found that's designed specifically for Cartridge Heaters. ProHeat HTC
There is also a product from Loctite that is designed for this application. Any others you guys know of? |
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Post by timeswelding on Aug 21, 2015 2:42:50 GMT
For the life of me, I can't remember what brand of heat transfer compound I used. It is made specifically for use with cartridge heaters and was recommended to me by Carlo at Nordic Sensors. They manufactured the heaters that I used.
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Post by andrewk on Jan 9, 2017 20:17:06 GMT
Its been quite some time since i last posted on the Monitor Top forums and unfortunately have not been able to finish the restoration job due to rupturing a disc in my lower back (no, it wasn't from lifting one of these beasts), my almost-restored CA-1-B16 has been running like a champ up until a week ago. I keep this fridge in my garage and the past month we've had many nights where temps would hover close to freezing (which is cold as hell for Southern California) and i began noticing the thermometer slowly creeping higher as well as a more pronounced sound from the fridge. Then one morning i opened it up and the ice was melting off the evaporator and the motor making the distinct sound they make when the heater is shot. So i pulled out my diy heater and it was clearly dead. It was a home-made heater fashioned from some 10w resistors and im actually surprised it lasted as long as it did.
So, in a quick fix i picked up locally one of those Supco pipe heaters, wrapped the wires over each other into a very tight snake like coil, and stuffed them into a spent .270 win cartridge (the OD of the cartridge is just under 1/2") that I had cut the necked down portion off, and into the machine it went. Its currently warming things up and i'll start the fridge back up this evening probably to see if things have improved.
Now... for a long term fix. Has anyone managed to find a proper replacement heater which doesn't require buying in bulk or spending ~$50 per heater? Money is tight right now since im not working much thanks to this injury which hasn't been fixed due to losing my insurance courtesy of the "affordable" care act, which tripled my premium over 4 years.
As for the fridge, the only thing left for me to get done is to get all the hardware triple chrome plated barring any unforseen issues. The only lingering potential issue i can think of is the future reliability of the float valve since this fridge is one that hasn't had hardly any down-time since 1934. But doing a capilary conversion is more than i'd like to get involved with right now. I did find the ultimate magnet for checking the float valve though. I recently picked up a 1/2" x 3" rare earth cylindrical magnet. Its lift capacity is 65lbs and worked wonders a while back when checking the valve.
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Post by timeswelding on Jan 9, 2017 21:14:44 GMT
Sorry to hear about your back. I have had the same experience with the ACA. Tripped premiums, less coverage and higher deductibles. Affordable.
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Post by coldspaces on Jan 9, 2017 21:29:08 GMT
Its been quite some time since i last posted on the Monitor Top forums and unfortunately have not been able to finish the restoration job due to rupturing a disc in my lower back (no, it wasn't from lifting one of these beasts), my almost-restored CA-1-B16 has been running like a champ up until a week ago. I keep this fridge in my garage and the past month we've had many nights where temps would hover close to freezing (which is cold as hell for Southern California) and i began noticing the thermometer slowly creeping higher as well as a more pronounced sound from the fridge. Then one morning i opened it up and the ice was melting off the evaporator and the motor making the distinct sound they make when the heater is shot. So i pulled out my diy heater and it was clearly dead. It was a home-made heater fashioned from some 10w resistors and im actually surprised it lasted as long as it did. So, in a quick fix i picked up locally one of those Supco pipe heaters, wrapped the wires over each other into a very tight snake like coil, and stuffed them into a spent .270 win cartridge (the OD of the cartridge is just under 1/2") that I had cut the necked down portion off, and into the machine it went. Its currently warming things up and i'll start the fridge back up this evening probably to see if things have improved. Now... for a long term fix. Has anyone managed to find a proper replacement heater which doesn't require buying in bulk or spending ~$50 per heater? Money is tight right now since im not working much thanks to this injury which hasn't been fixed due to losing my insurance courtesy of the "affordable" care act, which tripled my premium over 4 years. As for the fridge, the only thing left for me to get done is to get all the hardware triple chrome plated barring any unforseen issues. The only lingering potential issue i can think of is the future reliability of the float valve since this fridge is one that hasn't had hardly any down-time since 1934. But doing a capilary conversion is more than i'd like to get involved with right now. I did find the ultimate magnet for checking the float valve though. I recently picked up a 1/2" x 3" rare earth cylindrical magnet. Its lift capacity is 65lbs and worked wonders a while back when checking the valve. Wow sorry about the back also, I have an extra vertebrae that can get out of place so I feel for ya. Can you elaborate on the magnet please I would love to find one that works, every one I tried didn't lift the floats. Would love to see a pick and info on ordering one. |
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Post by coldspaces on Jan 9, 2017 21:31:23 GMT
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Post by andrewk on Jan 10, 2017 22:30:13 GMT
Well.... it seems there is a larger problem than I had thought. But i should move that to a new thread instead of having it here since i do not believe its heater related. Ill be putting a link here once i finish typing that thread starter edit/ monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/983/issues-restored-ca-1-b16 |
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Post by elec573 on Jan 11, 2017 6:55:34 GMT
Heaters I bought 6 from Nordic sensors 25 $ a piece have only used one so far in my dead dr . But it was doing its job could here so2 moving around ! They we'll build them to your specks .  |
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Post by don on Jun 29, 2017 10:40:50 GMT
If you ended up with an extra heater for whatever reason it could be used to dispel moisture from an enclosed space. Attached are the wattages used to dehumidify gun safes by one manufacturer of gun safe heaters. Attachments:
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Post by csulaguy on Aug 27, 2018 19:31:28 GMT
I'll let y'all know how my heaters turn out. I ordered 5 heaters from Phoenix Thermal Supply: www.phoenixthermalsupply.com/ptsheat/Spoke with one of the owners, and the price for 5 was about 2 bucks more than the price for 4 (roughly 30 bucks each for the 1-4 price). I only needed 3 and wanted an extra to have as a spare, but now I'll have 2 spares. Called Nordic and was told I'd get an emailed quote in 10 minutes, which never happened. Same for the company down in Miami. We'll see how these turn out. I specified 12mm in diameter, 66mm in length (as it's about 65.5mm in length), with 12" fiberglass leads. All measurements were taken with Mitutoyo digital calipers. I also specified 15w at 120VAC as everyone else did. I was told lead time is 9 business days, with another 2 for shipping to Central Texas via UPS Ground. |
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Post by elec573 on Aug 28, 2018 2:03:17 GMT
Well it’s ashame Nordic didn’t reply in a timely fashion. That’s where I purchased mine.
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Post by turbokinetic on Aug 28, 2018 9:52:22 GMT
Well it’s ashame Nordic didn’t reply in a timely fashion. That’s where I purchased mine.
I just received mine from Nordic. They did not reply to me either, at first. I had to call them and was given the explanation that their website is not working correctly. But, once we got the process going, they did deliver the parts.
I haven't been home to open the package as of yet, though.
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Post by csulaguy on Aug 28, 2018 16:40:00 GMT
I ended up getting a reply from Nordic today. I'll see how the quality of the other heaters are, as Nordic is $50 each (which is more than double the quotes I received from other sources). In fact, ordering 5 is a lot cheaper than ordering 3 with Nordic.
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