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Post by timeswelding on Feb 16, 2015 14:06:12 GMT
I'm new to the forum, and just picked up my first Monitor Top Saturday. It's a CK-30-16, s/n 5115115, with a Type T-9-C cabinet, s/n 5149399. It seems to function perfectly, but the wiring was mostly rock-hard. My father and I replaced all of the wiring yesterday on this unit, as well as on his CK-2. I'm looking forward to starting it back up this evening after everything has had a chance to settle down. My machine is only semi-complete. I am missing the sliding shelf, the 2 crisper drawers (although it has the rack and porcelain cover plate), and 3 of the feet. Does anyone have an idea of value? I'd like to reassure myself that I didn't get "hosed". Here are a few pictures.      There are 3 large chips in the porcelain on the top at the back of the cabinet. Aside from that, the finish is pretty nice (after a few hours of scrubbing). Also, does anyone know what style of light bulb is meant to fit inside the guard? Here is a shot of my parents' CK on an early cabinet.  Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Doug |
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Post by ChrisJ on Feb 16, 2015 18:27:32 GMT
Well, I don't know.
That's a larger CK machine and I believe typically sell for more. In that shape I'd expect $500-1K depending.
Overall it's condition does look really good. I'm sure someone on the forum can help you out with a set of racks.
Curious what other members feel in regard to value?
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Post by cablehack on Feb 16, 2015 22:18:08 GMT
Also, does anyone know what style of light bulb is meant to fit inside the guard? The Canadian AK service manual states the bulb is a "Mazda 15W". In other words, an ordinary 120V 15W, E26 base light bulb. |
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Post by timeswelding on Feb 17, 2015 3:05:39 GMT
Also, does anyone know what style of light bulb is meant to fit inside the guard? The Canadian AK service manual states the bulb is a "Mazda 15W". In other words, an ordinary 120V 15W, E26 base light bulb. Thank You. |
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Post by coldspaces on Feb 17, 2015 5:33:59 GMT
That is one clean looking cabinet. Good that the major chips are at the back. Do you have any before clean up pics? I would think a bit lower on price than Chris with missing racks and feet. Depending on how clean it already was and also depending on weather it was on and working before I bought it.
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Post by timeswelding on Feb 17, 2015 10:11:41 GMT
That is one clean looking cabinet. Good that the major chips are at the back. Do you have any before clean up pics? I would think a bit lower on price than Chris with missing racks and feet. Depending on how clean it already was and also depending on weather it was on and working before I bought it. My "before" pics really don't show the filth very well. It didn't look horrible, but, it looked nothing like it does now. It was running and cycling when I bought it, albeit in a 20 degree garage. Fortunately the original power cord was in great shape, so I was able to incorporate the cabinet plug for the lamp in my rewire. |
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Post by timeswelding on Feb 17, 2015 10:29:45 GMT
I started the refrigerator last night, and here is some performance data. If some of You more seasoned Monitor Top aficionados would do me the favor of looking it over, I'd really appreciate it.
On Setting 1:
Evap temperature: on at 24.7, off at 10.9. Amperage draw: 3.38. Run time: 3 minutes.
On Setting 5:
Evap temperature: on at 17.9, off at 3.9. Amperage draw: 3.32. Run time: 4 minutes.
On Setting 9:
Evap temperature: on at 10.5, off at -3.2. Amperage draw: 3.28. Run time: 4 minutes.
The above data was taken with the cabinet starting at room temperature and empty. Ambient temperature in my garage is 70 degrees. The refrigerator was run through 3 complete cycles at each of the 3 temperature settings, then the data was averaged. After 2.5 hours, the temperature at the center of the cabinet was 29 degrees.
I let the fridge run over night (about 8 hours total). Afterwards, the temperature at the center of the cabinet was holding at 26 degrees. On setting 9, the evap temperature was: on at 11.0, off at -3.5. Amperage draw was 3.28. Run time was 2.5 minutes.
I know very little about these machines, but, these numbers seem pretty promising to me. Any thoughts or suggestions?
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Post by timeswelding on Feb 17, 2015 13:59:08 GMT
Well, I don't know. That's a larger CK machine and I believe typically sell for more. In that shape I'd expect $500-1K depending. Overall it's condition does look really good. I'm sure someone on the forum can help you out with a set of racks. Curious what other members feel in regard to value? Well, Chris, I guess I did OK after all. The refrigerator was about 45 miles away from me and I ended up paying $225 for it. With the scrubbing and re-wire, I'm into it for about $275 and a long weekend of work. |
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Post by ChrisJ on Feb 17, 2015 19:45:51 GMT
Well, I don't know. That's a larger CK machine and I believe typically sell for more. In that shape I'd expect $500-1K depending. Overall it's condition does look really good. I'm sure someone on the forum can help you out with a set of racks. Curious what other members feel in regard to value? Well, Chris, I guess I did OK after all. The refrigerator was about 45 miles away from me and I ended up paying $225 for it. With the scrubbing and re-wire, I'm into it for about $275 and a long weekend of work. With tolls and gas I paid $100 for a broken standard size CA machine. I don't think anyone would argue $275 is an awesome price for a larger CK even without racks. |
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Post by cablehack on Feb 17, 2015 22:11:57 GMT
You did very well...I paid $120-$150 for my damaged CA's which took a lot of work to restore. Unless the float valve blocks up, nothing really goes wrong with CK's. The run times and temperatures are what they should be, and although I doubt there's anything wrong with it, I am curious what the off times are - I find that to be a better indicator of performance.
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Post by timeswelding on Feb 17, 2015 22:48:20 GMT
You did very well...I paid $120-$150 for my damaged CA's which took a lot of work to restore. Unless the float valve blocks up, nothing really goes wrong with CK's. The run times and temperatures are what they should be, and although I doubt there's anything wrong with it, I am curious what the off times are - I find that to be a better indicator of performance. I'm going to stock it tonight and I'll report back with run time and off time. |
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Post by timeswelding on Feb 18, 2015 13:14:09 GMT
You did very well...I paid $120-$150 for my damaged CA's which took a lot of work to restore. Unless the float valve blocks up, nothing really goes wrong with CK's. The run times and temperatures are what they should be, and although I doubt there's anything wrong with it, I am curious what the off times are - I find that to be a better indicator of performance. I stocked the refrigerator last night... (3) 12 packs of beer in bottles, (2) 12 packs of soda in cans, and a few strays. The "freezer" is empty, save a thermometer. After the temperature of the contents normalized (about 2 hours), the run time was: on for 3 minutes 10 seconds. Off for 13 minutes flat. The temperature control is set to 7.5. The temperature in the freezer is around 20 degrees, and the temperature under the bottom porcelain shelf is about 33 degrees and it appears that none of the contents have frozen. This is perfect for me as I like my beer as cold as I can get it without it freezing. I am not sure what the cycle times are supposed to be, but that is just about the same as my 1951 Crosley Shelvador (although the GE is much colder). I am also quite surprised at the amount of drinks that can be kept in this cabinet while still allowing plenty of room for air circulation. Here is a picture of how it is loaded.  An evaluation of my cycle times, temperatures and overall performance would be greatly appreciated. I've had several antique refrigerators, but this is my first Monitor Top. I think I have a new favorite. |
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Post by cablehack on Feb 18, 2015 22:08:54 GMT
Sounds perfect; everything is running as it should. For the cabinet size, the temperature you're running it at, and that it's just been stocked, cycling times are what I would expect.
If you are enthusiastic and don't mind the lack of originality, you can replace the Thermocraft insulation with modern foam and get an improvement on that.
How did you lift the top on and off?
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Post by timeswelding on Feb 18, 2015 22:28:08 GMT
Sounds perfect; everything is running as it should. For the cabinet size, the temperature you're running it at, and that it's just been stocked, cycling times are what I would expect. If you are enthusiastic and don't mind the lack of originality, you can replace the Thermocraft insulation with modern foam and get an improvement on that. How did you lift the top on and off? At our shop, we used our forklift along with a sling that we made up to lift the top. When I got it home, I used the same sling with the front end loader on our tractor to install the top. When I purchased the unit, we rolled the assembled unit, on an appliance dolly, to my truck. Me and one other guy lifted the top off of the cabinet and placed it on a crate that I had built for the job. We then lifted the cabinet into the truck via the dolly. Man, this thing is a heavy one! |
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Post by timeswelding on Feb 19, 2015 1:48:30 GMT
Cablehack, I plan on using the refrigerator for several months to verify that it will function properly and dependably. Once I'm satisfied, I plan on repainting the top, fabricating the missing shelf and drawers (if I haven't yet found replacements), replacing the door seal, buffing the porcelain and replating all of the hardware. At that time, I'll also replace the insulation with something more efficient. At least, that's the plan.
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