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Post by stlvortac on Jun 9, 2015 4:44:11 GMT
Amazing it maintains 31*(my sodas freeze if its set any colder) in the warm garage with about 1/2 the door not air tight. Decent run times average 4 min on and 12 off.
Page 159 in the service manual talks about using a mallet to reshape a 'bulged' door. Not attempting... Hopefully I can adjust the top hinge, if possible. They are in great shape, no play so its not due to a worn hinge. I noticed my modern kitchen fridge door seal is almost like an accordion and would conform to any misshape it has. My monitor top factory style replacement seal is fairly solid rubber and doesn't flex hence it not sealing half the door.
None the less this has been a fun project to preserve history, just hope I don't rust it out in the process...
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andy
New Member
Posts: 32 
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Post by andy on Jun 9, 2015 15:49:40 GMT
Do you have a specific gasket type that you know works well?
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Post by stlvortac on Jul 22, 2015 2:35:06 GMT
Long cycle time issues. Noticed the cabinet seemed a bit warm today, 35*. Normal for most people but considering its usually 30* even on a hot day. Decided to time it, Off cycle times are normal, 13-14 mins but the on has skyrocketed, 8 and 10 mins. I've never seen over 4.5. The only symptom is a slight waterfall noise in the compressor I haven't heard before. Stuck float issue?
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Post by cablehack on Jul 22, 2015 4:01:56 GMT
About the only thing that goes wrong with the refrigeration circuit of Scotch Yoke machines is the needle and seat clogging up. You can try tapping on the side of the float seat with something like a tack hammer when it's running and see if it clears up.
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Post by coldspaces on Jul 22, 2015 4:35:32 GMT
Wow that does not sound good.Hope it isn't a float problem but sounds like it might be.
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Post by stlvortac on Jul 22, 2015 10:45:40 GMT
I checked again last night. After it cycled off the evap normally has a vibrant boiling sound.. This time it sounded like a dull gurgle. Fairly sure that's a float issue. I set it to defrost mode, once its done i'll see if anything has happened to the frost line.
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Post by karlbrighton on Jul 23, 2015 8:07:54 GMT
Hi guys. My cj1 had a stuck float when I first used it. Motor was running with no boiling sound in the evaporator , and not getting cold. I tilted it forward, then thumped it back down. This freed the valve. No float problem since. What do you think?
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Post by stlvortac on Jul 24, 2015 10:46:04 GMT
Looks like I'm back in business. Defrosted, tapped the float and put a pot of hot water on the evap.
Hope it wont become a common problem!
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Post by cablehack on Aug 3, 2015 23:29:26 GMT
I think one of the things that can happen is that when the fridge is just idling along for a long time the float valve never opens enough for a good flushing. So, a good flow by making it work hard is probably beneficial from time to time.
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Post by ChrisJ on Aug 3, 2015 23:41:57 GMT
I think one of the things that can happen is that when the fridge is just idling along for a long time the float valve never opens enough for a good flushing. So, a good flow by making it work hard is probably beneficial from time to time. According to John Higdon and GE's video the float valve doesn't modulate flow but rather is fully closed, or fully open. I suspect this also may help a CA's evaporator work better with their so called "injector action" but I don't know. |
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Post by stlvortac on Aug 4, 2015 4:32:11 GMT
I'll have to give the hot water trick a try to clear up the evap. You'd think the 80-90* garage temps put a load on it but doesn't phase it.
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Post by coldspaces on Aug 4, 2015 4:51:05 GMT
I'll have to give the hot water trick a try to clear up the evap. You'd think the 80-90* garage temps put a load on it but doesn't phase it. The higher ambient could maybe affect the temp of the first part of the evap. I know my 32 with the SS coil has a bit thinner build up on this part than the rest right now. |
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