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Post by blackhorse on Feb 3, 2015 21:01:57 GMT
As far as authenticity, there are several G E brand cast-iron frame unit bearing motors available, though the bolt pattern is smaller than the original. This link is a search result, and will likely be invalid before too long: johnstonesupply.com/storefront/search.ep?categoryId=210853&keyWords=unit+bearing+motor&sorter=relevance-desc&filters=bGEMOTORS This is a 9-watt GE unit bearing motor, you can click the link "View Similar Items" to see a lot more choices.: www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=S88-7976 watt: www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=S88-7954 watt: www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=S88-793(I would probably go with the 4 watt, as far as matching the speed and sound of the original) I would probably go more by matching the amps than the "watts", since watts in this context is a measure of fractional Hp, not electricity, and will vary depending on loading of the fan blade used. With the 2-blade fan these came with a 9-watt motor will run quite fast. Also note that the custom for these motors is to list rotation as viewed from the label end, not the shaft end. The vast majority rotate "CW" viewed from the label end, since they have a threaded shaft and "CW" will tend to tighten the nut rather than loosen it. It should pull air through the coil and blow it over the compressor. If it blows the other way take it back and get the opposite rotation.
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Post by coldspaces on Feb 3, 2015 21:47:10 GMT
What watt rating is actually stamped into the original motor? Thats what you are trying to match. Like blackhorse said the 9 watt sounds a bit large. I put a 2 watt in my FEA unit. I am not sure the rating stamped in the motor is the same one they are calling input watts in print there.
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Post by stlvortac on Feb 4, 2015 2:34:50 GMT
Thanks for the help, it sounds like a 9 watt would of been a wind tunnel. lol.
my stock motor actually has no data printed on it, just stamped with the GE logo and part number. The part number referenced in the service manual is, 2 phase, watts input 7.5-9, 1350 rpm. no mention of amp rating. It list it as CCW, however when looking from the back, wire end of the motor its actually clockwise by modern terms.
I didn't find the 4 watt GE unit that I can purchase without a dealer log in, however I found a Fasco 4 watt and a Morrill 5 watt of comparable ratings.
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Post by coldspaces on Feb 4, 2015 3:13:29 GMT
Here is a 2 phase motor cross I have in an old Stevco catalog from 1973. Almost the same number as the far right motor on your page that says 9-12 input watts. My cross has one extra 7 at the end so I am not sure it is a true cross. They are only using a 1.5 watt for that one. The * means look at the wiring on page 2 to use a 1 phase motor. Page 2 wiring note The motors we buy now are rated in output watts as seen in this link. www.fasco.com/products/products/motors/shaded-pole-cast-iron-unit-bearing-motors/ Back in the day it looks like they reated them by input watts in your old data.
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Post by coldspaces on Feb 4, 2015 3:44:07 GMT
Here is some more info on similar motors, again not the exact # of your old one. 5k51 motors listed on page 48 and 49 of this cross reference. Looks like all the Hotpoint ones on pg 49 are replaced with a Marrs # 05109 which is a 2 watt motor. www.marsm-a.com/images/Motor-X-Ref-new.pdf
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Post by blackhorse on Feb 4, 2015 5:02:22 GMT
Thanks for the help, it sounds like a 9 watt would of been a wind tunnel. lol. my stock motor actually has no data printed on it, just stamped with the GE logo and part number. The part number referenced in the service manual is, 2 phase, watts input 7.5-9, 1350 rpm. no mention of amp rating. It list it as CCW, however when looking from the back, wire end of the motor its actually clockwise by modern terms. I didn't find the 4 watt GE unit that I can purchase without a dealer log in, however I found a Fasco 4 watt and a Morrill 5 watt of comparable ratings. I examined the motor on mine, it has no data printed on it either, it was probably a dealer item only back then. I don't have a dealer log-in with Johnstone either, though I have been a dealer for more than 40 years. I believe you can just walk in to buy a motor; I have seen a lot of DIY people buying motors, capacitors, switches, controls etc. You can't buy compressors, refrigerant, condensing units, etc., but I would be very surprised if they gave you a bit of lip over buying a fan motor. If so I can buy it and send it to you at my cost if you like; I have no idea where you are though.
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Post by stlvortac on Apr 22, 2015 1:07:08 GMT
Almost forgot to update this thread. Fridge is rewired and running great. Great frost line on the evap. 3 minute run times with not much in the fridge. Only thing I'm not sold on is the replacement Fasco fan motor. There's some play in the output shaft, I believe that's the source of the vibration from the motor. Even with the 2 watt motor its a wind tunnel, the compressor is almost cool to the touch.
Thanks again to everyone who chipped in to help me out. I contacted Don at rusty metal rescue about replacement door seals, think I might go that route.
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Post by stlvortac on May 18, 2015 19:46:23 GMT
Any tips for replacing door seals? Received my door seal from Don's rusty metal rescue. It recommends removing the door. I'm tempted to try it with the door on or is that not advisable? I assume removing the textolite panel on the interior of the fridge will reveal the door hinge bolts?
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Post by cablehack on May 18, 2015 23:37:04 GMT
It will be so much easier with the door off because you can lie it down flat and position everything correctly. This is important when cutting the notches for the corners. There's a chance you'll have to adjust the hinges for the new seal anyway. I believe your model might be of the type where the seal edge clamps under the Textolite strips which will make things easier. I can't speak from experience regarding the later hinges, but page 164 of the manual describes hinge removal.
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Post by stlvortac on Jun 4, 2015 2:53:34 GMT
Moisture mitigation.. I recently installed my new door seal however I'm having the same moisture issue. At the top of the door moisture collects on the textolite strip and eventually runs down inside of the door. Fridge is in an insulated basement garage. Never gets that hot or cold. The service manual suggest adjusting the hinges or latch but the door seems perfectly aligned. It firmly closes, use to have a tad bit of play with the original seal. Picture didn't come out as planned..
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Post by cablehack on Jun 4, 2015 3:46:20 GMT
Top of the door moisture collection makes me think about the cabinet top seal. Somewhere there is an entry point for moisture and seeing as you've installed the new door seal it shouldn't be that. My understanding is that the same top seal issues apply to the flat top as they do to the monitor top; no-ox-id cloth, etc. Page 134 of the manual talks about this.
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Post by stlvortac on Jun 5, 2015 23:52:35 GMT
Turns out my door is not aligned quite right. The seal is firm at the bottom and loose at the top(failed the feeler gauge test), which explains the condensation on the textolite strip. I installed weather stripping around the door seal until I can find time to align the door.
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Post by cablehack on Jun 8, 2015 23:06:33 GMT
Turns out my door is not aligned quite right. The seal is firm at the bottom and loose at the top(failed the feeler gauge test), which explains the condensation on the textolite strip. I installed weather stripping around the door seal until I can find time to align the door. I've had to pad out the seal on my CA-2 with weatherstrip for this reason. The cabinet is slightly warped due to the mishandling by a previous owner.
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Post by allan on Jun 9, 2015 2:54:52 GMT
It's not quite original but you can't beat the Cooler Gaskets.Com gaskets for performance. And the black one looks like original to the untrained eye. My red DR1 with that gasket and spray foam insulation almost never needs defrost. It is amazing how much difference it makes. And our humidity is high year round
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Post by allan on Jun 9, 2015 2:57:04 GMT
It's not quite original but you can't beat the Cooler Gaskets.Com gaskets for performance. And the black one looks like original to the untrained eye. My red DR1 with that gasket and spray foam insulation almost never needs defrost. It is amazing how much difference it makes. And our humidity is high year round I order it with welded corners and have it made without the magnet. It conforms and adjusts itself to an uneven gap between the cabinet and door very nicely without fillers
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