Repairing a non-cooling CK35 / start-relay modification...
Feb 6, 2024 14:41:17 GMT
cablehack and ckfan like this
Post by turbokinetic on Feb 6, 2024 14:41:17 GMT
This CK35 unit belongs to a fellow enthusiast and goes with a very nice porcelain three-door cabinet. The refrigerator was bought in "working" condition but it only cooled a few passes of the smaller evaporator. There was an initial plan to have a local repair business work on it. They attempted to release the SO2 in preparation for that shop's repair attempt, but that shop eventually backed out. As a result the unit was brought in to my shop discharged, which made it harder to troubleshoot.
The unit arrived with an aftermarket start device, which needs to be replaced with an original type relay. The CK35 machine is a 1/6 HP unit, whereas the more common CK1, CK2, and most other Scotch Yoke machines are 1/8 HP. The motor current draw is higher on the larger machines. For that reason, the start-relay calibration is different. All parts for the smaller machines are more common while anything for the 1/6 HP machines can be hard to find. In the final part of the video series, I modify an easier-to-find 1/8 HP start relay to work with the 1/6 HP machine. This was possible because GE released all the data on the relays in the manual.
The first video is the machine's initial check-out and test.
The second is disassembly and looking for sealed-system problems.
The third video is reassembly and testing of the sealed-system after repairs.
And, the final video is detail work and start-relay modification.
As for the findings, it seems that this one had a cold solder joint where the return line attaches to the evaporator. After cleaning the unit, an oil sheen appeared around that point. Then after glass-bead blasting the paint and other residue from that area, I was able to see the cold joint and see the oil slowly seeping out.
I used StayBrite-8 and liquid acid flux to repair this. Didn't take pictures but I do show it in the video.
Hope you find this interesting and informative!
Sincerely,
David
Part 1:
Part 2:
Part 3:
Part 4:
The unit arrived with an aftermarket start device, which needs to be replaced with an original type relay. The CK35 machine is a 1/6 HP unit, whereas the more common CK1, CK2, and most other Scotch Yoke machines are 1/8 HP. The motor current draw is higher on the larger machines. For that reason, the start-relay calibration is different. All parts for the smaller machines are more common while anything for the 1/6 HP machines can be hard to find. In the final part of the video series, I modify an easier-to-find 1/8 HP start relay to work with the 1/6 HP machine. This was possible because GE released all the data on the relays in the manual.
The first video is the machine's initial check-out and test.
The second is disassembly and looking for sealed-system problems.
The third video is reassembly and testing of the sealed-system after repairs.
And, the final video is detail work and start-relay modification.
As for the findings, it seems that this one had a cold solder joint where the return line attaches to the evaporator. After cleaning the unit, an oil sheen appeared around that point. Then after glass-bead blasting the paint and other residue from that area, I was able to see the cold joint and see the oil slowly seeping out.
I used StayBrite-8 and liquid acid flux to repair this. Didn't take pictures but I do show it in the video.
Hope you find this interesting and informative!
Sincerely,
David
Part 1:
https://youtu.be/cCrQqhF-tow Part 2:
https://youtu.be/PzkyvH3WufgPart 3:
https://youtu.be/YzpMLcZCZm0Part 4:
https://youtu.be/bW-0iex0lXE
