tatrat87
New Member
need CK starting help
Posts: 12
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Post by tatrat87 on Jul 19, 2023 19:13:37 GMT
Would any one out there have a cover for a CA solenoid box? As in picture... Paul  |
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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 20, 2023 4:00:11 GMT
I could probably help with that cover. Have you checked the crankcase heater and verified that the wiring is correct? That is strange that the relay won't pull in by its self. |
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tatrat87
New Member
need CK starting help
Posts: 12
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Post by tatrat87 on Jul 20, 2023 15:04:55 GMT
The wiring hasn't changed, and I checked for grounds (shorts). I can feel the electromagnetic field, but as I said it won't pull. I cleaned the points, and the "bars", the points were awful, and the "bars" rusty (no cover on the relay), but that didn't make much of a difference other than a better contact when the relay was manually activated.
Not being a refrigerator guy (though I've used a monitor top since 1977), I'm not sure about how to check the crankcase heater... And yes, if I get it back to life, I would be interested in the cover, to help keep it clean
Paul
<email removed>
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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 20, 2023 18:55:23 GMT
The wiring hasn't changed, and I checked for grounds (shorts). I can feel the electromagnetic field, but as I said it won't pull. I cleaned the points, and the "bars", the points were awful, and the "bars" rusty (no cover on the relay), but that didn't make much of a difference other than a better contact when the relay was manually activated. Not being a refrigerator guy (though I've used a monitor top since 1977), I'm not sure about how to check the crankcase heater... And yes, if I get it back to life, I would be interested in the cover, to help keep it clean Paul <email removed> Probably the exposed parts of the relay have been bent or sprung, so that the relay armature requires more force than the coil produces. Also, can you share a picture of the relay from the side, so that we can see the condition of the coil? The crankcase heater is easy to check. Are you handy with an ohm meter? Turn the fridge control to the OFF position and unplug the cord. Measure ohms of resistance across the live and neutral pins on the power plug. With the thermostat OFF, the resistance should be around 1000Ω. Be sure it's "ohms" and not K or M on the meter range. The correct reading is about 1000Ω or 1KΩ. If the reading is higher than that, the heater is bad. If the reading is around 4Ω that means the thermostat control is in the ON position and you are seeing the compressor motor resistance. By the way, I sent you an e-mail and removed your e-mail address from the public forum to save for you getting spammed. Sincere, David |
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tatrat87
New Member
need CK starting help
Posts: 12
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Post by tatrat87 on Jul 20, 2023 23:32:11 GMT
David:
first off, a sincere thanks for the help... Tonight, I will take a "video" of how the thing is not operating except by manually pushing the relay. Also a side view of the coil. I will send those via the e mail you contacted me on. I'm kinda stupid when it comes to an ohm meter, but my wife just bought me one, so I'll get busy with it.
Paul
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Post by turbokinetic on Jul 21, 2023 1:17:40 GMT
David: first off, a sincere thanks for the help... Tonight, I will take a "video" of how the thing is not operating except by manually pushing the relay. Also a side view of the coil. I will send those via the e mail you contacted me on. I'm kinda stupid when it comes to an ohm meter, but my wife just bought me one, so I'll get busy with it. Paul Thanks for the e-mail. It looks like your relay coil has lost its magnet wire enamel, leading to the relay being unable to pull in and actuate the start winding. Please be careful when manually manipulating the relay because it is electrically connected to the 120V circuit. |
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