marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 141
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Post by marko on Dec 26, 2022 23:50:30 GMT
Well, after living in the back of my work truck for nine days, I unloaded it and plugged it in. It works!
Here are a few pix.
I need a latch, the handle is gone The light works
Getting frosty
The other side
The evaporator door
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 27, 2022 1:05:48 GMT
Wonderful! Glad you got a good one!
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 141
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Post by marko on Dec 28, 2022 23:22:52 GMT
One of the first things I noticed wrong with this refrigerator is that when it satisfies at setpoint, it will not re-start unless I tap on the thermostat.
I started rewiring and cleaning today. Thanks for the ring eyelet tip on the compressor terminals David, that really works nicely! Here is a date stamp that I discovered under the model tag. That fairly narrows down its age!
The next pictures are after removing the first coat or two of white house paint.
Well, that is all for now
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 29, 2022 3:57:23 GMT
One of the first things I noticed wrong with this refrigerator is that when it satisfies at setpoint, it will not re-start unless I tap on the thermostat.
I started rewiring and cleaning today. Thanks for the ring eyelet tip on the compressor terminals David, that really works nicely! Here is a date stamp that I discovered under the model tag. That fairly narrows down its age!
The next pictures are after removing the first coat or two of white house paint. Well, that is all for now
That's going to look so much better with a good coat of paint! Sounds like the thermostat needs to be cleaned and re-lubricated. That should solve the non-restarting isuse!
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 141
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Post by marko on Dec 29, 2022 22:26:19 GMT
Sounds like the thermostat needs to be cleaned and re-lubricated. That should solve the non-restarting isuse! Yes, that is most likely. I will get to that in fairly short order.
Here are some more pictures of the paint stripping, rust treatment ,and cleaning. There is a point of diminishing returns, but there is also a point at which I will go no farther. I am not there yet, but it is getting close.
Maybe I can show more progress tomorrow.
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 141
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Post by marko on Dec 30, 2022 22:12:14 GMT
The weather is cool and wet today. Yesterday afternoon I applied some more orange stripper to the remaining paint and let it go about 24 hours. Kudos to orange stripper, it is not, and never will be, methylene chloride, but given enough time, it does work. That is okay with me, I'm getting slow, too.
Actually, the weather is perfect for the phosphoric acid to do it's miraculous rust conversion. It doesn't evaporate so quickly that the process does not work.
Priming may or may not be permissible tomorrow, I don't know, we shall see. There is a trough around the compressor where it meets the to deck and I would like to be relatively certain that the rust in there is "killed" before priming. I did not go overboard in between the fins, that is the diminishing returns part. There are areas of this machine that can not be cleaned.
Anyway, here are a couple of pictures.
Look at the colors on the metal on and around the service port.
Mostly white steel here
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 31, 2022 2:33:56 GMT
The weather is cool and wet today. Yesterday afternoon I applied some more orange stripper to the remaining paint and let it go about 24 hours. Kudos to orange stripper, it is not, and never will be, methylene chloride, but given enough time, it does work. That is okay with me, I'm getting slow, too. Glad to see more progress! You can still order real methylene chloride coating remover online. Search PTI Certified SureStrip. The company Aircraft Spruce carries it.
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jc
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 64
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Post by jc on Jan 1, 2023 12:11:28 GMT
Wow, that is looking amazing! I have access to MEK here in KY. I’m guessing that would be the best thing to use to strip off the old paint? I’ve never used it before. Also, you mentioned phosphoric acid, do you just apply a coating of it after all of the paint removal has been done? Lastly, what was your technique for getting as much paint off as you did between the fins? My CA is in desperate need of repainting but getting between those fins has been what’s kept me from giving it the old college try.
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 141
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Post by marko on Jan 1, 2023 14:38:42 GMT
Wow, that is looking amazing! I have access to MEK here in KY. I’m guessing that would be the best thing to use to strip off the old paint? I’ve never used it before. Also, you mentioned phosphoric acid, do you just apply a coating of it after all of the paint removal has been done? Lastly, what was your technique for getting as much paint off as you did between the fins? My CA is in desperate need of repainting but getting between those fins has been what’s kept me from giving it the old college try. Thanks, JC!
As far as methyl ethyl keytone removing paint, I would suspect, given the age of the original paint on the refrigerator, that it would require lots of rubbing. Methylene chloride would be a better choice. This is the first time that I used Citri-strip paste, and it worked well, but it was slow. If I had left it on the fins for 24 hours, it probably would have removed all of the paint in there as well, but I decided that I really was not up to the task of cleaning all of that residue out.
The phosphoric acid reacts with iron oxide, rust, to form ferric phosphate which stops the rust down in the rust pits and areas that can not be reached to clean, and it takes paint well. It is the active ingredient in "Naval Jelly", "Ospho", and other rust treatment/removal/inhibitor products. I used Kleen-Strip brand concrete and metal cleaner because it is significantly less expensive than Ospho. It also went a long way to remove the Citri-Strip (which recommends mineral spirits for clean up, which I do not understand,as it is a water based product!).
Getting the paint from between the fins is part of the "diminishing returns" where I decided enough was enough. I left the reasonably sound paint, removing what I could with a wire brush taped to a stick and used a cheap throw away paint brush (on a stick) to prime (the best I could) down in the fins, and the trough between the compressor shell and the deck. It is not pretty, and my plan is to spray paint (as well as I can) between the fins. I did mask off the deck to prevent getting brush primer all over it, and the masking is still there, until I finish between the fins.
The weather is not permitting me to paint right now, but perhaps this afternoon it will be okay.
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Post by turbokinetic on Jan 1, 2023 14:44:44 GMT
Wow, that is looking amazing! I have access to MEK here in KY. I’m guessing that would be the best thing to use to strip off the old paint? I’ve never used it before. Also, you mentioned phosphoric acid, do you just apply a coating of it after all of the paint removal has been done? Lastly, what was your technique for getting as much paint off as you did between the fins? My CA is in desperate need of repainting but getting between those fins has been what’s kept me from giving it the old college try. Thanks, JC!
As far as methyl ethyl keytone removing paint, I would suspect, given the age of the original paint on the refrigerator, that it would require lots of rubbing. Methylene chloride would be a better choice. This is the first time that I used Citri-strip paste, and it worked well, but it was slow. If I had left it on the fins for 24 hours, it probably would have removed all of the paint in there as well, but I decided that I really was not up to the task of cleaning all of that residue out.
The phosphoric acid reacts with iron oxide, rust, to form ferric phosphate which stops the rust down in the rust pits and areas that can not be reached to clean, and it takes paint well. It is the active ingredient in "Naval Jelly", "Ospho", and other rust treatment/removal/inhibitor products. I used Kleen-Strip brand concrete and metal cleaner because it is significantly less expensive than Ospho. It also went a long way to remove the Citri-Strip (which recommends mineral spirits for clean up, which I do not understand,as it is a water based product!).
Getting the paint from between the fins is part of the "diminishing returns" where I decided enough was enough. I left the reasonably sound paint, removing what I could with a wire brush taped to a stick and used a cheap throw away paint brush (on a stick) to prime (the best I could) down in the fins, and the trough between the compressor shell and the deck. It is not pretty, and my plan is to spray paint (as well as I can) between the fins. I did mask off the deck to prevent getting brush primer all over it, and the masking is still there, until I finish between the fins.
The weather is not permitting me to paint right now, but perhaps this afternoon it will be okay.
I agree that cleaning between the fins is definitely a diminishing return area. I was able to use the PTI Sure Strip remover in there by putting it on a large bottle brush and using that to put it in between the fins. Then to remove it, I used the 5000 PSI pressure washer. Of course that would mean you have to remove all insulation and cardboard during the cleaning process. The Keen-Strip Ospho knock-off is a much better value, and places like Lowe's carry it! And yeah - mask off the deck and the exterior of the condenser first. Then heavily paint in the fin area. Once that is dry, you can remove the masking and do a smooth professional paint job on the visible surfaces. If overspray from the deck gets in the fins area, nobody will notice. But if overspray or drips from in the fins area goes on the freshly painted deck, it looks terrible!
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jc
5 Cubic Foot
Posts: 64
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Post by jc on Jan 1, 2023 15:58:44 GMT
Thanks for the quick replies and information! Once I get better weather I will give it a go!
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Post by elec573 on Jan 4, 2023 1:46:32 GMT
Great job I would not have the patience. Keep us posted.
I have a sand blasting unit I’d use on the cabinet, but go with something less abrasive on the top like corncob ,or walnut shells . But you need the equipment to be able to do it .
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 141
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Post by marko on Jan 8, 2023 9:43:39 GMT
It took a few days, weather not permitting, along with my work schedule, but I finally got a paint job on the top.
This paint job has it all! Runs, drips, sags, wrinkles, masking lines, bugs, dust, dirt, leaves and finger prints. About the only things it does not have is orange peel and dusting, but it may have a little of that, too. The best part of it is there is a good heavy coat and it looks okay.
Rattle can paint ease of use took a big step backwards a few years ago when new regulations were imposed on the manufacturers. Gone are the days when you could do minor touch ups and re-spray in the same day. Now you have a one hour window to re-coat or you must wait 48 hours. This stipulation precludes any fix ups in a timely fashion.
Here it is in primer. I like Rustoleum etch primer, it dries quick and smooth, and can be sanded after a few hours, but if one does not have a few hours, it can be top coated after one hour.
The color coat (white), don't look to closely
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Post by turbokinetic on Jan 8, 2023 14:32:32 GMT
It took a few days, weather not permitting, along with my work schedule, but I finally got a paint job on the top.
This paint job has it all! Runs, drips, sags, wrinkles, masking lines, bugs, dust, dirt, leaves and finger prints. About the only things it does not have is orange peel and dusting, but it may have a little of that, too. The best part of it is there is a good heavy coat and it looks okay.
Rattle can paint ease of use took a big step backwards a few years ago when new regulations were imposed on the manufacturers. Gone are the days when you could do minor touch ups and re-spray in the same day. Now you have a one hour window to re-coat or you must wait 48 hours. This stipulation precludes any fix ups in a timely fashion.
Here it is in primer. I like Rustoleum etch primer, it dries quick and smooth, and can be sanded after a few hours, but if one does not have a few hours, it can be top coated after one hour.
The color coat (white), don't look to closely
That looks so much better now that it's a bright clean white, as opposed to the faded yellowed old paint! As for the paint, I had been feeling the opposite lately. It seemed to me that in the last 3 or 4 years paints have improved. I have used Krylon Fusion paint quite a lot and it seems to dry very rapidly and leave a good finish. It is extremely important that the application temperature is correct, though. It must be applied to warm surfaces for it to gel and avoid runs and sags. But if the directions referring to temperature are followed, I've had excellent results with it. I know that the environmental nonsense is more 'out of control' in certain states versus others. So maybe we just don't have that sort of issues here yet. One friend lived in a state with that sort of regulation. He would make a road trip every few months to get paint related materials, cleaning products, and the like. Sincerely, David
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 141
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Post by marko on Feb 2, 2023 10:10:04 GMT
I am still working on it, one piece at a time.
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