norm
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Posts: 18
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Post by norm on Nov 10, 2022 14:27:19 GMT
I watched this forum for a while now I joined. I love old STUFF and I'm old also 72. Just got an old DR-2 in semi nice condition. I'm thinking it sat for 40 - 50 years. I cleaned it up and checked the motor for opens/shorts and everything good. Then I was going to pull the heater out and the wires looked great along with the control box. SO I plugged it in and it started right up and purred like a kitten. Motor was a steady 2.4 amps and in about 10 minutes icebox was around 38. NOW I got lots of questions I'll do some searching her first.
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Post by ckfan on Nov 10, 2022 17:55:11 GMT
That’s great that it shows signs of life. Can you tell from the meter you are using if the heater is working when the machine is off? It should pull about 15 watts when the motor is off.
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norm
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by norm on Nov 10, 2022 22:18:30 GMT
Just checked I have no amp draw with motor off BUT I inserted my electric probe in the heater hole and I defiantly have 110 volts there, I assume my heater element is open and must replace
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Post by ckfan on Nov 10, 2022 23:57:44 GMT
Look in the supplier section. You will find places to get the heaters in there. Yes, it sounds like the heater has gone bad. You definitely need to have a working heater before you run the machine or damage will occur over time.
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norm
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Posts: 18
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Post by norm on Nov 14, 2022 13:23:38 GMT
Heater update I removed the heater thinking it didn't work. My problem was I used my big clip on digital amp meter thinking it would show 0.1 amp. It did not! So I checked it with my multi meter and it read 0.12 amp. At 120 volts that's 14.4 watts . Then I clipped on a type K thermocouple it showed 241 degrees. I'm going to try a photo
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Post by turbokinetic on Nov 14, 2022 13:43:34 GMT
Heater update I removed the heater thinking it didn't work. My problem was I used my big clip on digital amp meter thinking it would show 0.1 amp. It did not! So I checked it with my multi meter and it read 0.12 amp. At 120 volts that's 14.4 watts . Then I clipped on a type K thermocouple it showed 241 degrees. I'm going to try a photo View AttachmentThat's amazing that the original heater still works! Usually those have gone bad by now, due to moisture and years. Your fridge must have been kept in a nice dry indoor environment for most of its life. Hopefully the rest of it will be in equally good condition! Yeah those clamp type current meters are convenient, but they have some limitations as you noticed. Many of us use the plug-in meters such as the P3 Kill-A-Watt meter. It will measure down to 1 or 2 watts, as well as show voltage, current, and other parameters.
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norm
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Posts: 18
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Post by norm on Nov 20, 2022 22:54:48 GMT
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Post by turbokinetic on Nov 21, 2022 1:23:37 GMT
Awesome! Please share your progress!
Did you confirm that the oil heater is good?
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norm
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by norm on Nov 21, 2022 12:39:35 GMT
Yes the heater works. I posted some photos in the General Board but should have put them in " DR Machines "
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Post by turbokinetic on Nov 21, 2022 13:29:18 GMT
That's good to know! I posted some photos in the General Board but should have put them in " DR Machines " Fixed! Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress! Sincerely, David
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norm
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Posts: 18
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Post by norm on Nov 23, 2022 12:56:31 GMT
This DR2 is taking over my shop! I got the door and cabinet ready for cleaning. The fiber panels in the door were tied together with baler twine which I thought was cute. The amount of fiber panels in the cabinet was unbelievable. I will probably use modern insulation when reassemble. Things I learned; ALL interior metal surfaces were coated with beeswax for I think rust control. And all the screws about 100 that hold the black plastic strips on the door and cabinet use an obsolete thread size, they are 10/30 tpi not 10/32. You must have a very old tap chart to see 10/30 listed.
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norm
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Posts: 18
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Post by norm on Nov 23, 2022 13:01:00 GMT
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Post by turbokinetic on Nov 23, 2022 14:33:55 GMT
Awesome! There are a lot of parts to one of these and they do take up a lot more space in pieces than as one assembly.
As for the wax, that is a form of autobody cavity wax. If I remember, GE's brand of that was "No-Oxide" and it was used as liquid and as impregnated cloth. Not sure what formulation GE had back in the day, but if you want to replace it with its modern equivalent, it's still available from body shop supply places.
Those screws are unobtainable, however there is a "hack" to get around them. The difference between root-to-root spacing between 10-30 and 10-32 threads is very small. The metal strips behind the Textolite are thin and only contain about 3 threads. You can run a 10-32 tap through the 10-30 holes, to provide more clearance between the threads. After that, you can install 10-32 screws. Some will argue that is a wrong repair process, because it creates a weaker thread than original. However, the Textolite will break long before the modified threads strip out.
Some of the old screws GE used were aluminum and were extremely poor. If I were you, I would buy a new set of stainless 10-32 screws; re-tap the holes, and replace all of them with new. Will be a much better job in the end!
The screws I used were from Grainger:https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-10-32-Machine-Screw-2CY25
Thanks for sharing your progress! Sincerely, David
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Post by douro20 on Nov 30, 2022 16:16:20 GMT
Awesome! There are a lot of parts to one of these and they do take up a lot more space in pieces than as one assembly. As for the wax, that is a form of autobody cavity wax. If I remember, GE's brand of that was "No-Oxide" and it was used as liquid and as impregnated cloth. Not sure what formulation GE had back in the day, but if you want to replace it with its modern equivalent, it's still available from body shop supply places. Those screws are unobtainable, however there is a "hack" to get around them. The difference between root-to-root spacing between 10-30 and 10-32 threads is very small. The metal strips behind the Textolite are thin and only contain about 3 threads. You can run a 10-32 tap through the 10-30 holes, to provide more clearance between the threads. After that, you can install 10-32 screws. Some will argue that is a wrong repair process, because it creates a weaker thread than original. However, the Textolite will break long before the modified threads strip out. Some of the old screws GE used were aluminum and were extremely poor. If I were you, I would buy a new set of stainless 10-32 screws; re-tap the holes, and replace all of them with new. Will be a much better job in the end! The screws I used were from Grainger: https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-10-32-Machine-Screw-2CY25 Thanks for sharing your progress! Sincerely, David No-Ox-Id is the brand you were looking for. It is still in production and not too expensive. It's available on Amazon.
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norm
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Posts: 18
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Post by norm on Dec 16, 2022 15:07:05 GMT
Norm again, Progress I just removed the bottom of the cabinet because it had some heavy rust inside and outside. I already cut a piece of 306 stainless to replace it. FYI the bottom section of cabinet sheet metal does NOT just fall out after you remove the corner welds!! It is actually lock seamed with all 4 side pieces. To me this looks like a complicated manufacturing process. Anyhow a grinder with cutoff disc got it out. I also cut off all the brass rivets and removed the metal backing strips that are threaded for the finish screws. These will get cleaned rustproofed and replaced also this will make painting easier - no rivet heads to get in the way of a flat smooth finish. YES the thread size of the hinges and latch are ODD they are 1/4"-24 TPI I also took the bright work (including the 22 screws 1/4"- 24 TPI) to be nickel plated. If you didn't get anything to be chrome or nickel plated lately your in for a BIG surprise $$ I am also polishing the black plastic strips BRASSO seems to work nice with a buffer pad. Anybody have any tips for painting the top with all the fins and coils?
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