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Post by monitorhead on Oct 13, 2022 17:15:07 GMT
Hey there everyone! I just discovered this wonderful forum after purchasing a (1946?) G.E. refrigerator. It still runs (and cools), but has some issues that need to be addressed. So far, I have found that it needs new wiring, a new door seal gasket, a paint job, and some rust treatment. Some of the rust is on the door, but most of it is underneath the cabinet. To get to it, I am going to have to dismantle the entire thing. That said, is it worth replacing the insulation and/or rebuilding the start relay and/or cold control while I’m in there? What kind of paint is the best for it? What style of door seal gasket does it use (the original was completely gone with weather stripping in it’s place)? Also, how do the compressor terminal wires come off? Are they soldered on? One last thing: is there any way to reduce the risk of the refrigerant tubing rupturing while bending it? This is the first time I’ve ever done any major work to a refrigerator, and I don’t want to damage it.
Thanks,
Monitorhead.
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Post by turbokinetic on Oct 14, 2022 10:42:51 GMT
Hey there everyone! I just discovered this wonderful forum after purchasing a (1946?) G.E. refrigerator. It still runs (and cools), but has some issues that need to be addressed. So far, I have found that it needs new wiring, a new door seal gasket, a paint job, and some rust treatment. Some of the rust is on the door, but most of it is underneath the cabinet. To get to it, I am going to have to dismantle the entire thing. That said, is it worth replacing the insulation and/or rebuilding the start relay and/or cold control while I’m in there? What kind of paint is the best for it? What style of door seal gasket does it use (the original was completely gone with weather stripping in it’s place)? Also, how do the compressor terminal wires come off? Are they soldered on? One last thing: is there any way to reduce the risk of the refrigerant tubing rupturing while bending it? This is the first time I’ve ever done any major work to a refrigerator, and I don’t want to damage it. Thanks, Monitorhead. Hi, welcome to the forum! There is a lot of info available here for your reference, as I'm sure you've noticed. As for the questions; if I were you I would replace the insulation with new, because the original is very likely to have been waterlogged in the lower areas of the cabinet. That will cause it to lose some of its insulation value. The old insulation is usually coarser than the new, because of how it was manufactured. As a result it is very likely to get in your skin and cause itching. I would dispose of that and replace with new fiberglass or rock-wool insulation. As for the compressor, I think that the FCA model has the same horizontal compressor like the FEA replacement cooling units did. It should be an R12 unit, if that is indeed the compressor it uses. It would be helpful to share pictures of the fridge and the compressor area. These units also (if I am not mistaken) utilize a condenser fan to cool the compressor and condenser. That fan is a point which can fail and harm the compressor. It's very important to ensure that it is working. You might want to replace the fan motor with a new motor, just as a precaution. There are bolt-in replacement motors available. Most of us who work on these regularly build a wooden stand for the cooling system. I typically start with a cheap mover's dolly, such as one from Harbor Freight. Add some wood uprights to the dolly, with a crossmember at the top to support the evaporator. This will allow you to set the cooling system up on the stand without excessively bending the lines. All the GE compressors from this era had soldered-on wiring. Some of them had a metal cap which goes over the entire terminal area which may require a somewhat destructive removal method. Sometimes they will pry off easily, though. Underneath that cap you will find the three terminal pins going into the compressor motor. To help with the gasket, it will be necessary to share a couple pictures of the cabinet. Some of the earlier cabinets can be used with self-adhesive gasket; which looks almost like the original. Other later cabinets need flat vinyl gaskets. Sincerely, David |
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Post by monitorhead on Oct 17, 2022 2:16:44 GMT
Hi David, thanks for the tips! Funny you should mention the condenser motor, because it was locked up when I got it. ($25, a Supco SM-5109 universal motor kit, and a removed dead mouse later and it's running great!) I've been the process of dismantling the cabinet, but took some pictures of the fridge before. It is indeed an R-12 unit. Didn't some of these cabinets also have SO2 cooling units in them? By the way, I love your youtube channel. The comments section of it was actually how I found this place. Thanks, Monitorhead.
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Post by monitorhead on Mar 14, 2023 20:25:32 GMT
I just recently obtained the G.E. parts catalog for monitor top and some flat top refrigerators. I only have pre-war parts lists, but the closest cabinet model looks identical to mine inside and out, with the only difference appearing to be the refrigerating machine. It is model LBX7-42A, while mine is LBX7-B. It’s gasket is listed as part number H13A263. What shape of gasket would this be? My unit just had weather stripping when I got it, with the original gasket having been long since cut off. I am planning to order some replacement material from one of the providers listed here, but need to know what style to get. Also, does anyone have any advice on mitering the corners? The only gasket replacements I have done were on much newer units that had pre-fabricated gaskets, so I have no experience with mitering.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 14, 2023 22:01:22 GMT
I just recently obtained the G.E. parts catalog for monitor top and some flat top refrigerators. I only have pre-war parts lists, but the closest cabinet model looks identical to mine inside and out, with the only difference appearing to be the refrigerating machine. It is model LBX7-42A, while mine is LBX7-B. It’s gasket is listed as part number H13A263. What shape of gasket would this be? My unit just had weather stripping when I got it, with the original gasket having been long since cut off. I am planning to order some replacement material from one of the providers listed here, but need to know what style to get. Also, does anyone have any advice on mitering the corners? The only gasket replacements I have done were on much newer units that had pre-fabricated gaskets, so I have no experience with mitering. This type of cabinet door can be re-sealed with double-bead self adhesive gasket from Lowe's. You can also find it at McMaster-Carr. There are several threads on this forum about this. If you can't locate anything one of us can help as time allows. |
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marko
7 Cubic Foot
Posts: 141
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Post by marko on Mar 14, 2023 22:43:25 GMT
Hi, monitorhead,
The advice that David gives you is unsurpassed.
As far as paint, I have had fairly good luck with Rustoluem rattle cans. There are "for large projects" cans available as well, though only in white or black. The large cans may not spray as well as they should, but you can put a lot of paint on in a short time.
I will generally sand all the way down to good sound factory paint, or bare metal, and use Rustoleum etch primer, because it bonds to old paint as well as bare metal, and if properly applied, does not need sanding. It makes a great foundation for the color coats.
If You do use these products it is imperative that you follow the dry and re-coat times to the letter, disaster is sure to occur if you do not. Mistakes happen, as well as bugs, leaves and dirt getting on your wet coat of paint, just leave them until the 48 hour re-coat time has elapsed and wipe them away. The larger imperfections can be sanded away after 48 hours, more time, days, is better, then make your (hopefully) final coat.
It takes practice. The alternative is to use a spray gun, or hire it out.
I hope this helps!
Marko
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Post by monitorhead on Mar 27, 2023 2:20:20 GMT
Thanks for the tips everyone! They are greatly appreciated. I’m still in the middle of re-wiring, as I have run into another hurtle. I’m afraid that the cold control is bad. I noticed a nick taken out of the line for the sensing bulb, and was suspicious as such. I put the control in my deep freezer set to about 0*F, and left it there for about two days. When I took it out, it didn’t click when I turned it. I also tested it with a multimeter, and it showed that it was closed any time it wasn’t in the off position. That said, is it feasible to attempt to repair it, or am I better off getting an aftermarket one? If an aftermarket one is suitable, which one should I get? I’ve heard that GE refrigerators from this time period are very persnickety about what cold control is installed on them, so I want to make sure I get it right.
Thanks,
Monitorhead.
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Post by turbokinetic on Mar 27, 2023 2:23:35 GMT
Thanks for the tips everyone! They are greatly appreciated. I’m still in the middle of re-wiring, as I have run into another hurtle. I’m afraid that the cold control is bad. I noticed a nick taken out of the line for the sensing bulb, and was suspicious as such. I put the control in my deep freezer set to about 0*F, and left it there for about two days. When I took it out, it didn’t click when I turned it. I also tested it with a multimeter, and it showed that it was closed any time it wasn’t in the off position. That said, is it feasible to attempt to repair it, or am I better off getting an aftermarket one? If an aftermarket one is suitable, which one should I get? I’ve heard that GE refrigerators from this time period are very persnickety about what cold control is installed on them, so I want to make sure I get it right. Thanks, Monitorhead. I don't think there is anything wrong with the control. If the sensing tube loses its charge, it will not turn on at all. It may take lower than 0°F to turn it off. Have you opened it and inspected or lubricated it? |
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