CK-2-B16 Troubleshooting

It might be a blockage in the float seat. Sitting dis-used leads to rust buildup in the orifice sometimes. You can tap the float seat area pretty hard as long as you aren't bending the lines. 

Where are you located in the country?

The area you are describing is the top of the float. I think the manual says to put a block of wood on the float, obviously so you don’t leave “donkey tracks” on it. I have to give David credit on that one.
Once you have a block of wood on it, start gently tapping it. Then start hitting it progressively harder. You have to use your best judgement with this but always err on the side of caution. Remember, this is an antique. Sometimes hitting it with a block and hammer will work. Sometimes it won’t. Just keep that in mind. I’ve had both scenarios come to pass. When it works you feel like a million bucks. Just realize it may or may not last even if it does work. These machines use a refrigerant that in the presence of even tiny, minute quantities of moisture will become corrosive to the system. The newest monitor tops like these are at least 85 years old. Hence rust and sticky parts. Sometimes the system will have to be opened up and repaired. It can and has been done. It’s complex, but possible. Sometimes you get lucky and it works and stays working. I think this is why it’s important to exercise these old machines if they still work. Run them every once in a while. When they haven’t ran in a while, it’s very possible to have the float stick temporarily and build up pressure. Then it will finally let go if it’s going to and you get a huge THUD, FLUSH!!! You think the thing has blown up but no, it’s just gotten rid of its constipation!

Anyways, you may also try tapping on the float valve seat which is inside the cabinet. You’ll see a smaller tube soldered to the end of it. It will be sticking down pointing away from the top. You have to be much more careful tapping around this area as it’s much more fragile. This is what David meant by bending the lines. It’s a vulnerable area. Again, you just have to use your best judgement. You never want to create a leak for multiple reasons.

That’s unfortunate. I would suspect the that the next step would be opening up the float valve seat to clear out the obstruction. Would you agree David?

You all are wonderful, I really appreciate all your attempts to figure out my problem. Does the 1934-1942 GE Refrigerator Monitop Repair Manual reprint have diagrams of the float set up? If so, do you have it?

What is a low side leak and how would I do anything about an obstruction.

Thanks

Jim

I dont see any corrosion but have taken pictures for you. Can you give me email address to send them to you, dont see a way to attach to this.

Wonderful to see the manual, thanks so much.

Had a bit of work done by the look of it - and a capillary tube with inline filter added. No wonder hitting the float valve does nothing - it's been bypassed. I wonder what it's been charged with. That evaporator looks interesting. I'm a bit sceptical of flared connections - I would have soldered them, but that's just me.

I originally had a 1927 unit, but it stopped working. I got this 1935 from the guy in NY, was it Rochester or somewhere near Albany. He had a huge collection and rebuilt things. Unfortunatly he died in the past few years. I tried to track him down and that is when I learned he died. Dont know what happened to all his stuff

So my problem is different. Hope one of the Monitor Top genius can be helpful. You all are terrific.