rexc
New Member
Posts: 31
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Post by rexc on Dec 17, 2021 1:17:24 GMT
Hi, Gang,
Happy Holidays! I am putting a small CK machine back into service, and the plug-in connection on the back is broken. Year ago the previous owner just straight-wired the motor and by-passed the socket on the back of the machine. Is there any chance of finding the socket or a work-around to get the cabinet light going and to avoid a fire! I am sure this has been asked many times, but maybe I don't know the terminology to track the posts down. Machine cools great and has some sentimental value to me as it was the first machine sold by a family furniture store in my home town. You all have been so helpful! Thanks! Rex
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 17, 2021 11:46:45 GMT
Hi, Gang,
Happy Holidays! I am putting a small CK machine back into service, and the plug-in connection on the back is broken. Year ago the previous owner just straight-wired the motor and by-passed the socket on the back of the machine. Is there any chance of finding the socket or a work-around to get the cabinet light going and to avoid a fire! I am sure this has been asked many times, but maybe I don't know the terminology to track the posts down. Machine cools great and has some sentimental value to me as it was the first machine sold by a family furniture store in my home town. You all have been so helpful! Thanks! Rex
Hi Rex. I took a cabinet connector to several electrical supply places, and nobody had a small two-wire connector which would fit there. We have a member who has in the past reproduced these connectors. monitortop.freeforums.net/thread/1742/light-plug-knob-plastic-replicas?page=4 Unfortunately, he has not been active on the forum in quite a while and has not responded to private messages. Until he returns, there is a workaround. I have been buying extension cords with a molded vinyl female end, and grinding the excess vinyl away until I am left with a more or less round body connector. That can go into the male inlet on the rear of the cabinet. The extension cord connector doesn't connect "in the middle" of the power cord. You will have to attach it at the start relay in the same way as the power cord, so that the cooling unit has two cables coming from it. One is the power cord, and the other is the light connector. That has proven to be a more reliable configuration for me, anyway. Another option which only is feasible on the larger cabinets such as the CK30; is the replace the male inlet on the back of the cabinet with a modern one, which will accept modern and easily available cable connectors. |
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rexc
New Member
Posts: 31
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Post by rexc on Dec 17, 2021 22:36:27 GMT
Turbo,
Thanks for this post. I have half of the female plug and the two copper tabs. I am wondering if I can rig up some kind of back and try to reconnect the power cord and the relay cord at the back of the cabinet? What I cannot remember is exactly how the cords join together in the original plug. I suppose I should put power to the socket and make sure that the light even works before going to that trouble. I shall reach out to the member who was planning some reproductions as well. Thanks, as always, for your help. By the way my DR machine is still running over a year later! That little tap to the float freed it up and it's been going ever since.
Thanks again. Rex
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Post by turbokinetic on Dec 17, 2021 22:44:15 GMT
Turbo,
Thanks for this post. I have half of the female plug and the two copper tabs. I am wondering if I can rig up some kind of back and try to reconnect the power cord and the relay cord at the back of the cabinet? What I cannot remember is exactly how the cords join together in the original plug. I suppose I should put power to the socket and make sure that the light even works before going to that trouble. I shall reach out to the member who was planning some reproductions as well. Thanks, as always, for your help. By the way my DR machine is still running over a year later! That little tap to the float freed it up and it's been going ever since.
Thanks again. Rex
Happy to hear that the DR is still working for you! As far as the light connector, the original cord was prepared by stripping the outer jacket off the cable, and exposing the inner cores. Then, each core had a short segment of insulation removed, so that the conductors could be soldered to the brass tabs to complete the connection to the socket. Then, the rear cover attached and held it all together. The light circuits often go bad, so it's very wise to test it. They often develop ground faults which are obviously a severe shock hazard. |
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rexc
New Member
Posts: 31
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Post by rexc on Dec 18, 2021 2:46:05 GMT
Thanks so much for these tips. That makes perfect sense about the original installation. I thought that is how it must work, but it's a lot of wire in a little space. I shall report back the results, if there are any worthy of a report.
Thanks!! Rex
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Post by elec573 on Jan 2, 2022 6:08:21 GMT
Rexc to try it and see if the light works, just get an extension cord that fits and plug it in , and see if when you open the door if the light goes on.
I’ve used cheap extension cords for this as long as it fits into the socket. Just make sure you have a good bulb in it .
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