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Post by 508gm1 on Oct 27, 2021 22:39:14 GMT
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Post by cablehack on Oct 27, 2021 23:39:25 GMT
That appears to be a Canadian Flat Top, which is why the type numbers don't match up. There are usually slight differences between the Canadian and U.S. models; shelves in the doors being one, and evaporator design being another with some models. However, you should find the Scotch Yoke service manual will cover most things - including the butter conditioner. The manual is available here www.cool386.com/ge_service/ge_service.html |
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Post by 508gm1 on Oct 30, 2021 23:52:33 GMT
Thanks for the information. I am going through this fridge today. Cleaned up very well, less the deep gouges the previous owner left in the one side. Not the end of the world, faces the wall anyway. I am missing one glass shelf for above the vegetable / fruit drawer. Everything else seems to be there. Any idea where I could fine a replacement glass?
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Post by cablehack on Oct 31, 2021 9:02:15 GMT
Glass shelf doesn't sound right. Certainly in the U.S. models, wire shelves were always used, as far as I'm aware, since these allow for correct air circulation in the cabinet. I'd want to be sure that's what your fridge originally used before using glass again.
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Post by ckfan on Oct 31, 2021 14:27:01 GMT
I bet he means the glass shelf that goes above the crisper drawer. Mine has one. Honestly that is something you could get made up at a glass cutting shop. It’s just plate glass.
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Post by 508gm1 on Oct 31, 2021 19:06:44 GMT
You are both correct. The glass above the crisper drawers is what I am inquiring about. Everything else is indeed wire shelves, including in the door pocket itself. I didn't think the glass was anything special, just trying to acquire an original if possible.
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Post by 508gm1 on Nov 5, 2021 22:46:53 GMT
  I added a fuse for the fridge & a new cord with a ground. The original cord surprisingly is in great shape as are the internal conductors. Running amps are around 2.6. A little above name plate but when I do the math to account for my incoming voltage (125vac) I'm right where I should be. Thanks everyone for your help thus far. Fuse is 3.2 time delay. I feel more comfortable with it if troubles appear. Cheers, Brendan |
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Type JD
Nov 5, 2021 23:27:56 GMT
via mobile
Post by ckfan on Nov 5, 2021 23:27:56 GMT
I’m really glad you added a fuse to it. I need to do that to my units.
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Post by 508gm1 on Nov 10, 2021 0:51:34 GMT
I have a question regarding longevity. I like this unit, lets hope it outlives me. Since my utility voltage is on the high side (averages 122-127) would it be beneficial to use a buck transformer to reduce the voltage back down to something closer to nameplate value?
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Post by cablehack on Nov 10, 2021 7:36:45 GMT
I have a question regarding longevity. I like this unit, lets hope it outlives me. Since my utility voltage is on the high side (averages 122-127) would it be beneficial to use a buck transformer to reduce the voltage back down to something closer to nameplate value? The U.S. models were designed for satisfactory operation on 100 to 130V, with the design centre being 115V (despite the 110V rating on the nameplate). If where the voltage you are measuring is close to the supply, you might find that by the time it gets to the actual fridge it's of lower voltage. I did make up such a transformer about 25 years ago to run my then modern fridge. It was of Japanese manufacture and despite being imported into Australia where the mains is 240V, it was fitted with a 220V compressor. Thus, it ran a bit hotter than normal. One summer the Klixon tripped and failed permanently, so I made up the transformer to drop 20V and never had any further problems. One thing to keep in mind when using transformers to power fridges is that if the power rating is insufficient, the voltage will drop too much during start up and the motor will never reach full speed. I found this in my early days of Monitor Top ownership when I was testing likely looking step down transformers.
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Post by 508gm1 on Nov 11, 2021 21:55:00 GMT
Sounds good, I'll leave everything as is.
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Post by 508gm1 on Feb 18, 2022 22:28:27 GMT
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Post by turbokinetic on Feb 19, 2022 6:57:23 GMT
Could you share a video of the sound? Normally these don't have a sound at startup, that gradually fades over about 5 or 10 seconds and then are barely audible. Since it;s not a high-side housing machine normally it wouldn't need a heater. |
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Post by 508gm1 on Feb 19, 2022 19:30:47 GMT
The first 10 seconds is me moving the compressor around slightly. Almost sounds like there is a loose component inside. On the bright side, the frost line is perfect  The machine is SO2. The telephone was about 4" away from the compressor for the recording. New Recording.m4a (369.56 KB) Thanks for your time everyone. |
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Post by turbokinetic on Feb 20, 2022 4:36:59 GMT
The first 10 seconds is me moving the compressor around slightly. Almost sounds like there is a loose component inside. On the bright side, the frost line is perfect The machine is SO2. The telephone was about 4" away from the compressor for the recording. Thanks for your time everyone. That, to me, sounds pretty normal. As for the "loose" sound when moved; that is also normal because the mechanism inside the housing is suspended on springs and can wobble about when the unit is moved. |
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The machine is SO2. The telephone was about 4" away from the compressor for the recording.